Two Scratchbuilding Ideas

[BR60103]

I've used coffee stirrers for cheap piping. Price is right. Only problem I found was that some don't take paint well. Test first by stirring your paint with them.

[bogp40]

Scraps of Romex from 10, 12 and 14 work great for this purpose. On commercial buildings I use the solid ground wire for the downspout. Doesn't matter that it's solid, it attaches to a scupper or gutter. Elbow bends are easy to make with the soft copper. The base of copper will weather great w/ washes of browns and greens.
Bob K.

[Eriediamond]

Only problem with coat hanger wire is that it is solid. Scale rain can't run throught it. But on the other hand in the winter time it would cause some nice scale icecicles to form on your buildings. [(-D][(-D][:o)]

[WickhamMan]

QUOTE: Originally posted by orsonroy

The only down side to the downspouts is that coat hanger wire is WAY too big, unless you're modeling in O scale. If you're in HO, try something narrower, say in the .025" range (which in HO is about 2.5"). For as little as house structures need, a $3.00 package of Evergreen .025" styrene rod goes a long way.

You are definitely right about these being too large for a house. However, I'm modeling a commercial building and the hangers are between the sizes found on some commercial building models I've purchased.

QUOTE: Originally posted by Tayder

another downside might be when your wife commences to beat upon your head and ears for depleting her stock of hangers...just a thought...

Fortunately, my wife couldn't care less if I swipe them given that we have too many of the things as it is. She's not much of a clothes horse and hates shopping (God, I married the right woman! [:D]).

[Anonymous]

another downside might be when your wife commences to beat upon your head and ears for depleting her stock of hangers...just a thought...

[orsonroy]

The only down side to the downspouts is that coat hanger wire is WAY too big, unless you're modeling in O scale. If you're in HO, try something narrower, say in the .025" range (which in HO is about 2.5"). For as little as house structures need, a $3.00 package of Evergreen .025" styrene rod goes a long way.

[jeffrey-wimberly]

A trick I use for glazed windows.

I cut clear plastic from those hard to open plastic containers that Wal-mart puts everything in. It takes a 20 minute demolition job just to get the thing you bought out. I cut these to the sizes I need for the windows then spray them with Matte-Finish. Dull-Cote would probably work too. They dry to a nice glaze. They also enhance your structures interior lighting. Put a bunch of these into a building and it only takes a small light to light up every window that has glazing.

[scubaterry]

Another couple of ideas to put in my mental idea book. Of course if I wait too long to try it that page may be lost. Tks
Terry[8D]

[WickhamMan]

I'm not sure if anyone has considered these options but I thought I'd post them just the same. I've been working on my first real scratchbuilding effort based on concepts from Ken Spranza (veneer on foamcore).

#1: New way of creating window glazing

Ken recommends using milk jug plastic for window glazings. We only buy milk in cartons so I didn't have this option. My wife suggested using another product which seems to work very well. I'm using Glad Press and Seal food wrapping. The material is a non-clear cellophane that "clings" to whatever you wrap it around. Double wrapping sections of the foamcore where windows will be produces a nice glazed effect. The best part is, it's a really cheap and easy to use solution. The only drawback is that portions of the cellophane carry the "Glad" logo and I have to avoid having those parts at window locations.

As a bonus, my buildings will stay fresher longer! [:D]

#2 Easy Downspouts

I've been toying with the idea of using brass tubing for downspouts as I seen on several scratchbuilding articles. Unfortunately for me, the stuff is not that cheap and sometimes requires a bit of work to get into the right shape. Instead, I'm planning to go with wire coathangers for this aspect of my buildings. They are easy to manipulate with a small pliers into whatever shape I need. Best of all, my closet is full of them so I'll never run out if I screw up one (or a hundred!).

Anybody see any downside to either of these methods?