LED headlights?

[Anonymous]

Does any company sell White LED headlights for HO locos without them standard?

[Anonymous]

Does any company sell White LED headlights for HO locos without them standard?

[Anonymous]

Radioshack sells white leds and most stores stock them.

[Anonymous]

Radioshack sells white leds and most stores stock them.

[emdgp92]

You'll need a dropping resistor to install an LED in a locomotive. Otherwise, track power could fry it.

[emdgp92]

You'll need a dropping resistor to install an LED in a locomotive. Otherwise, track power could fry it.

[Anonymous]

Yes, you need a dropping resistor. And also a polarity device. There are different ways to do this depending on if you use dcc or dc. Experiment with red leds at fifty cents versus $5 for a white one. I still use lightbulbs because white leds are more trouble than they are worth, cost way too much, and are not really white, but bluish white... I have a white LED flshlight and it is really nice, is bright, light,and easy on AA batteries. But they are too complex and costly for any benefit as a loco headlight.

[Anonymous]

Yes, you need a dropping resistor. And also a polarity device. There are different ways to do this depending on if you use dcc or dc. Experiment with red leds at fifty cents versus $5 for a white one. I still use lightbulbs because white leds are more trouble than they are worth, cost way too much, and are not really white, but bluish white... I have a white LED flshlight and it is really nice, is bright, light,and easy on AA batteries. But they are too complex and costly for any benefit as a loco headlight.

[der5997]

flee307 "But they are too complex and costly for any benefit as a loco headlight." That comes as a bit of a facer. I had heard that they were brighter than bulbs, and not as complex as a constant brightness circuit in dc.
BTW, the original question was an HO reference, but does Radio Shack stock white LEDs suitable for N?

[der5997]

flee307 "But they are too complex and costly for any benefit as a loco headlight." That comes as a bit of a facer. I had heard that they were brighter than bulbs, and not as complex as a constant brightness circuit in dc.
BTW, the original question was an HO reference, but does Radio Shack stock white LEDs suitable for N?

[Anonymous]

Constant brightness in DC for bulbs require 4 silicon diodes to set up a 1.5 volt drop across the motor circuit. That's it, 4- 5 cent 1n4001 diodes and a 1.5 volt lamp. In dcc all one needs is a 12v bulb. As to brightness, LEDs might put out more lumes per watt, but for ultimate brightness (if that is what you are after) small 12v halogens outshine all. Remember though, if the light is too bright it shines through even painted plastic. You can get them and white leds from www.allelectronics.com/ along with lots of other parts like low rpm ac motors. I think all current white LEDs are t-1 3/4 which are kind of big for N, but you could notch your frame. But to use an LED you also need include a full wave bridge for polarity control and a dropper resistor. That's a lot to pack in an n. And what's a facer?

[Anonymous]

Constant brightness in DC for bulbs require 4 silicon diodes to set up a 1.5 volt drop across the motor circuit. That's it, 4- 5 cent 1n4001 diodes and a 1.5 volt lamp. In dcc all one needs is a 12v bulb. As to brightness, LEDs might put out more lumes per watt, but for ultimate brightness (if that is what you are after) small 12v halogens outshine all. Remember though, if the light is too bright it shines through even painted plastic. You can get them and white leds from www.allelectronics.com/ along with lots of other parts like low rpm ac motors. I think all current white LEDs are t-1 3/4 which are kind of big for N, but you could notch your frame. But to use an LED you also need include a full wave bridge for polarity control and a dropper resistor. That's a lot to pack in an n. And what's a facer?

[Anonymous]

I use white LED's that I purchase from Jameco Electronics for around $2.95 each. I am running DCC and use a 1k resistor to keep the voltage from burning out the led. If you are running analog (dc) you need a voltage regulator to get the voltage higher to light the LED at lower speeds. The LED's work great with DCC. The have virtually no draw, no heat and are really bright. The sometimes have a bluei***int to them, but I do not find it offensive. I am starting to use fiber optics as lenses with the LED's. The light is bright and projects well.

[Anonymous]

I use white LED's that I purchase from Jameco Electronics for around $2.95 each. I am running DCC and use a 1k resistor to keep the voltage from burning out the led. If you are running analog (dc) you need a voltage regulator to get the voltage higher to light the LED at lower speeds. The LED's work great with DCC. The have virtually no draw, no heat and are really bright. The sometimes have a bluei***int to them, but I do not find it offensive. I am starting to use fiber optics as lenses with the LED's. The light is bright and projects well.

[BentnoseWillie]

I use white LED's and fiber optic headlights on my engines. I get them from the local electronics supply house ($CAD 9 - ouch!) or when they have them, the Hobby shop ($CAD 2). The $9 ones are brighter, but not that much!

For DCC, a 1K resistor needs to go in line with the LED.

For DC, if the engine doesn't have a directional lighting circuit, add a diode rated for the full track voltage in parallel with the LED, in the opposite orientation to the LED (positive to negative, negative to positive), and a 1K resistor in series with both. If you don't do this, the LED will pop the first few times you reverse the engine.

If you do have a directional lighting circuit, you can dispense with the diode and possibly the resistor, depending on the output of the lighting circuit.

It's sort of a "build to suit" situation, but anyone who knows a little about electronics can help you get going, and the results are great.

[BentnoseWillie]

I use white LED's and fiber optic headlights on my engines. I get them from the local electronics supply house ($CAD 9 - ouch!) or when they have them, the Hobby shop ($CAD 2). The $9 ones are brighter, but not that much!

For DCC, a 1K resistor needs to go in line with the LED.

For DC, if the engine doesn't have a directional lighting circuit, add a diode rated for the full track voltage in parallel with the LED, in the opposite orientation to the LED (positive to negative, negative to positive), and a 1K resistor in series with both. If you don't do this, the LED will pop the first few times you reverse the engine.

If you do have a directional lighting circuit, you can dispense with the diode and possibly the resistor, depending on the output of the lighting circuit.

It's sort of a "build to suit" situation, but anyone who knows a little about electronics can help you get going, and the results are great.

[Anonymous]

Quote: "I use white LED's that I purchase from Jameco Electronics for around $2.95 each. "

Do they ship them free? I couldn't find a shipping charge quote on their site but have found that on lots of mail order stuff the shipping + parts is more than the parts locally. And if it don't work you then pay shipping back too.

As for DCC only needing a 1K resistor, I disagree. My DCC shows AC voltage at the light terminal which frys LEDs. And as to using 2- 1K resistors and a diode on DC, my results showed lots of dimming at low speeds and burnouts at over 16V.

[Anonymous]

Quote: "I use white LED's that I purchase from Jameco Electronics for around $2.95 each. "

Do they ship them free? I couldn't find a shipping charge quote on their site but have found that on lots of mail order stuff the shipping + parts is more than the parts locally. And if it don't work you then pay shipping back too.

As for DCC only needing a 1K resistor, I disagree. My DCC shows AC voltage at the light terminal which frys LEDs. And as to using 2- 1K resistors and a diode on DC, my results showed lots of dimming at low speeds and burnouts at over 16V.

[Anonymous]

Rocky, could you explain the use of fibre optics as lenses for you locos. It sounds interesting. I'm missing a few lenses for my Ho trains and I'm looking for an alternative.
thks

[Anonymous]

Rocky, could you explain the use of fibre optics as lenses for you locos. It sounds interesting. I'm missing a few lenses for my Ho trains and I'm looking for an alternative.
thks

[BentnoseWillie]

QUOTE: As for DCC only needing a 1K resistor, I disagree. My DCC shows AC voltage at the light terminal which frys LEDs.

Huh? Every decoder I've seen has DC function outputs. Using my Atlas Master system (which puts out a higher voltage to the rails than most), I get no higher than 14-16VDC on the function outputs. Haven't had a problem yet.

QUOTE: And as to using 2- 1K resistors and a diode on DC, my results showed lots of dimming at low speeds and burnouts at over 16V

I didn't say two resistors, I said one in series with both the LED and the straight diode, which are in parallel with one another. This whole circuit is then placed in parallel with the motor. Now, I've only bench-tested this, but I went to +/- 18VDC with no burnout. Dimming/dropout at starting voltage is the Achilles heel of this version, though, and I should have mentioned that. My bad.

[BentnoseWillie]

QUOTE: As for DCC only needing a 1K resistor, I disagree. My DCC shows AC voltage at the light terminal which frys LEDs.

Huh? Every decoder I've seen has DC function outputs. Using my Atlas Master system (which puts out a higher voltage to the rails than most), I get no higher than 14-16VDC on the function outputs. Haven't had a problem yet.

QUOTE: And as to using 2- 1K resistors and a diode on DC, my results showed lots of dimming at low speeds and burnouts at over 16V

I didn't say two resistors, I said one in series with both the LED and the straight diode, which are in parallel with one another. This whole circuit is then placed in parallel with the motor. Now, I've only bench-tested this, but I went to +/- 18VDC with no burnout. Dimming/dropout at starting voltage is the Achilles heel of this version, though, and I should have mentioned that. My bad.

[Anonymous]

MRC decoders run the headlights on AC, at lead my digital VOM show its AC. And I read " and a 1K resistor in series with both. " to read 2 resistors ie. one with the led and one with the diode. That's why LED fried at 16 volts? And another way is to power LEDs off of aaa batteries in HO. I'll still stick with light bulbs. I never have had one give problem. I follow KISS most of the time.

[Anonymous]

MRC decoders run the headlights on AC, at lead my digital VOM show its AC. And I read " and a 1K resistor in series with both. " to read 2 resistors ie. one with the led and one with the diode. That's why LED fried at 16 volts? And another way is to power LEDs off of aaa batteries in HO. I'll still stick with light bulbs. I never have had one give problem. I follow KISS most of the time.

[BentnoseWillie]

QUOTE: MRC decoders run the headlights on AC, at lead my digital VOM show its AC.

Weird. I have a couple of MRC decoders, but haven't connected lights to those ones. Maybe I should see what they have on the function outputs. My TCS, Atlas and Digitrax decoders all put out DC.

[BentnoseWillie]

QUOTE: MRC decoders run the headlights on AC, at lead my digital VOM show its AC.

Weird. I have a couple of MRC decoders, but haven't connected lights to those ones. Maybe I should see what they have on the function outputs. My TCS, Atlas and Digitrax decoders all put out DC.

[der5997]

flea307: Facer , a Brit expression ( how current I can't say since we left in 1967) for something that brings you up short. to be brought up short is to be stopped in one's tracks. So you see, there is a RR link in there somewhere! [:D]

[der5997]

flea307: Facer , a Brit expression ( how current I can't say since we left in 1967) for something that brings you up short. to be brought up short is to be stopped in one's tracks. So you see, there is a RR link in there somewhere! [:D]

[Anonymous]

BENT: I did a little research and found dcc controllers works with either DC or AC power supplies. I use a 16VAC MRC powerpack that came with my Prodegy DCC. That may be why my headlight is AC but yours is appears as dc if you are using a dc powerpack. I gather the decoders use "switches" to turn on-off headlight suppling track power to them. I am goint to do an experiment when I get time and swap in a filtered dc power pack and see. I am also going to note if it changes the way no-dcc locos sound.

[Anonymous]

BENT: I did a little research and found dcc controllers works with either DC or AC power supplies. I use a 16VAC MRC powerpack that came with my Prodegy DCC. That may be why my headlight is AC but yours is appears as dc if you are using a dc powerpack. I gather the decoders use "switches" to turn on-off headlight suppling track power to them. I am goint to do an experiment when I get time and swap in a filtered dc power pack and see. I am also going to note if it changes the way no-dcc locos sound.