Athearn engines ARE quiet!

[SOU Fan]

Bring Up My Post

[GTX765]

I am going to try this, I have had major issues with my Athearn engine. I am not happy with it at all. When it moves around the track it makes a loud static noise constantly. The B unit is not even being used since the first time I used it smoke came rolling out of it. I will not buy another. I have better luck with proto 2000. I have tried to work and inspect my Athearn but i am not very expierenced. I like the engine but it is super noisy and the b unit sound comes on but does not move. Plus I have to buy a booster to program them cause the Zeypher is unable to program the engines.

[Tilden]

The 2-26 seems to work well on all things electric.

 I got a re-motored Athearn BB on e-bay.  The unit had a proto-power west can motor and the top of the shell filled with lead(yes it tends to sway when running).  I put in a decoder and in short order, blew the decoder climbing a hill.  The real problem was it's power usage.  It was a surprising power hog, well over an amp on the flat with no cars.  I had never seen anything suck juice like that.  I put in another decoder (an older MRC 350, rated at 2 amps, see, I told you guys they still had their uses) and, while it ran fine, it still sucked the power.

On day, after reading this thread and getting and using 2-26, I decided, for kicks and the fact I had nothing to lose, to put some 2-26 on the motor.  Now this is a sealed motor, so I just put a couple of drops on the shaft, spun the shaft and let gravity do it's thing.  Since I couldn't reach the communicator directly, I didn't think it would do any good.  WRONG!  The voltage draw dropped by over two-thirds, to under one-half amp.

I don't know how it works, but I'm not complaining.  I also rub a cloth with 2-26 on it on the rails after I clean them with alcohol.  Works great, with no visible arching, slipping or dead spots and it's much quicker than gleaming.  Again, not complaining.

If it works, do it.

[riogrande5761]

LET'S SEE:

You found a magical elixer that takes the noise out of Athearns. It's a Petroleum Distillate (read thin) Oil Lubricant.

As a Lubricant, it will reduce friction - where ever that is - for a while - and attract dirt. Without finding the source of the noise, I predict it will return. Some find vibration in the gears, Brakie finds it in the shell. Others have found it in the motor or flywheels.

I think it's really poor Quality Control, no matter where it is.

BB?Joe D'Elia found the answers.
http://www.ppw-aline.com/custom_built_chassis.htm

I have always been disappointed with Athearns spotty quality control over the years.  But they really need a different motor finally.

Unfortunately no one else makes SD40T-2's (which the new ones have nice body).  So until Athearn changes motors we are stuck with them.

BTW, I used to hear people using TV Tuner Cleaner on the commutator also for better running and quieter sound.  Another person took it out and polished it.  It always comes back to the cummutator.

[cmarchan]

Don,I will need to check the brand name(even though I don't see why its important to you) but,rest assured a 2 unit consist of Athearn GP38-2 was pulling 1/2 amp and I can read a amp meter.

I concur with BRAKIE; the nominal current flow of healthy Athearn units varies between 0.120 amps and 0.180 amps per unit at operating speeds. I use a Fluke 77 multimeter.

[BRAKIE]

Don,I will need to check the brand name(even though I don't see why its important to you) but,rest assured a 2 unit consist of Athearn GP38-2 was pulling 1/2 amp and I can read a amp meter.

[Don Gibson]

user="BRAKIE

"Bull! Another urban myth.Today I ran 2 BB GP38-2s  at 1/2 amp for 6 hours straight".- Brakie.

Larry: How would you know you were using 1/2 amp? What meters are you using??

 

 

[Railfan Alex]

I finally got 3-36 through Grainger. 

I hope you mean 2-26!

[SteamFreak]

You might want to ask somebody.  I found it at Home Depot after  I had gone through the electrical section twice when I asked somebody.  He pointed me right to it. It's a dark blue bottle with white lettering.

-Smoke

I wish I had a dime for all of the people I did ask, and not just at Home Depot. I finally got 3-36 through Grainger. 

[SOU Fan]

Does anyone know where 2-26 is still available? I've been hunting high and low, but can't find it anywhere. Auto parts places, electronics parts stores, and nada. I found a post in a tech forum where a guy said he bought some a while ago at Home Depot, and it scanned at $.01 per can, because they were discontinuing it. He bought out their entire stock. Home Depot definitely doesn't have it anymore.

The only place I know it's available is from an American Flyer parts dealer, but I'm not going to pay $15 a can.

I found it at the local Home Depot today, $1.98 for a 5 oz. spray can.   

I give up. I've been to 4 Home Depots, a Lowes, and some electronics stores. It's not available in this area. One guy recommended Grainger, but I think I'll have to set up an account with them. Sheesh!

You might want to ask somebody.  I found it at Home Depot after  I had gone through the electrical section twice when I asked somebody.  He pointed me right to it. It's a dark blue bottle with white lettering.

-Smoke

[jeffrey-wimberly]

I have several Athearn locos that use the new hex shaft drive and made more noise than any bb unit I've ever had. I simply sprayed a little 2-26 lubricant into the commutator of each unit and they quieted down immediatly. Nothing to do with the flywheels or shafts.

[SteamFreak]

Nelson,So,you don't believe what you see and hear because it proves Athearn can be quiet runners and therefore find fault with the videos..I have seen what poor motors do..The run hot or very warm to the touch.I am yet to see a Athearn motor run hot or even warm to the touch.

So,another Athearn urban myth busted.

I don't know what we're arguing about here. I love BB locos, and as I said have quite a few that run great. When they didn't, the items I listed above could be the the problem.

I'm not going to argue the point any further.

[BRAKIE]

Nelson,So,you don't believe what you see and hear because it proves Athearn can be quiet runners and therefore find fault with the videos..I have seen what poor motors do..The run hot or very warm to the touch.I am yet to see a Athearn motor run hot or even warm to the touch.

So,another Athearn urban myth busted.

[SteamFreak]

Others have founf it comes from poorly balanced commutators and flywheels.

Yup. I've never heard much noise coming from the motor brushes, unless there's too much spring tension. It's off-center flywheels and shafts that are the biggest problem. 

Bull! Another urban myth.Today I ran 2 BB GP38-2s  at 1/2 amp for 6 hours straight.The motors was barely warm..If the motors was faulty they would have been warm to the touch or would have a "hot" motor smell. 

Check this out.

http://s105.photobucket.com/albums/m210/Brakie-2/?action=view&current=100_1060.flv

http://s105.photobucket.com/albums/m210/Brakie-2/?action=view&current=100_1061.flv

 

An Athearn with eccentric or unbalanced flywheels isn't going to overheat, it's going to roar and rattle the shell. Usually it's the flywheels; sometimes it's the armature, but as with anything that spins at a high RPM, balance is critical. The really old BB's with the Jet motors and the flywheels mounted on the universal bushing were even worse, because plastic can't be molded to tight enough tolerances. The universal shafts with the large spline coupling were also problematic. As for the video, it's hard to tell anything from that. The video is dark, and the sound quality poor. I have old BB's that run smooth as glass, and others that don't. It was always hit or miss with them.

I've never had any problems with the commutators, though. 

[BRAKIE]

Others have founf it comes from poorly balanced commutators and flywheels.

Yup. I've never heard much noise coming from the motor brushes, unless there's too much spring tension. It's off-center flywheels and shafts that are the biggest problem. 

Bull! Another urban myth.Today I ran 2 BB GP38-2s  at 1/2 amp for 6 hours straight.The motors was barely warm..If the motors was faulty they would have been warm to the touch or would have a "hot" motor smell. 

Check this out.

http://s105.photobucket.com/albums/m210/Brakie-2/?action=view&current=100_1060.flv

http://s105.photobucket.com/albums/m210/Brakie-2/?action=view&current=100_1061.flv

 

 

 

[SteamFreak]

Others have founf it comes from poorly balanced commutators and flywheels.

Yup. I've never heard much noise coming from the motor brushes, unless there's too much spring tension. It's off-center flywheels and shafts that are the biggest problem. 

[Don Gibson]

Others have founf it comes from poorly balanced commutators and flywheels.

[SteamFreak]

Does anyone know where 2-26 is still available? I've been hunting high and low, but can't find it anywhere. Auto parts places, electronics parts stores, and nada. I found a post in a tech forum where a guy said he bought some a while ago at Home Depot, and it scanned at $.01 per can, because they were discontinuing it. He bought out their entire stock. Home Depot definitely doesn't have it anymore.

The only place I know it's available is from an American Flyer parts dealer, but I'm not going to pay $15 a can.

I found it at the local Home Depot today, $1.98 for a 5 oz. spray can.   

I give up. I've been to 4 Home Depots, a Lowes, and some electronics stores. It's not available in this area. One guy recommended Grainger, but I think I'll have to set up an account with them. Sheesh!

[WCfan]

I'm going to have to try that with my SW1500. Thanks. I was just about to remotor that thing. You saved me alot of time. Thanks again.

[Anonymous]

Does anyone know where 2-26 is still available? I've been hunting high and low, but can't find it anywhere. Auto parts places, electronics parts stores, and nada. I found a post in a tech forum where a guy said he bought some a while ago at Home Depot, and it scanned at $.01 per can, because they were discontinuing it. He bought out their entire stock. Home Depot definitely doesn't have it anymore.

The only place I know it's available is from an American Flyer parts dealer, but I'm not going to pay $15 a can.

I found it at the local Home Depot today, $1.98 for a 5 oz. spray can.   

[Railfan Alex]

Good thing I asked this question before I tried!

[SteamFreak]

Has anyone tried WD-40?

Does it have the same results?

Yikes! Don't use WD40 (or any oil for that matter) on the brushes. It heats up and turns to tar on the commutator. This CRC product is a very thin lubricant, so it leaves little-to-no residue.

A watchmaker I worked with said it was common for jewelers to spray WD40 inside mechanical watches as a "tuneup," where it eventually turns to varnish and stops it dead.

[Railfan Alex]

Has anyone tried WD-40?

Does it have the same results?

[modelmaker51]

BTW, the stuff works great as a track cleaner as well! Just spray some on a lint-free rag and wipe, lasts for months.

[mtrails]

Since February of last year when I first applied the product, I have had to re-apply it just one time, and that was about 2 months ago. I run on a large club layout, so the locos get plenty of run time.

Having turned this tip to other's, who did not give it time to dry, it has resulted in premature brush wear, and comm clogging. DO NOT RUN WHEN FRESHLY APPLIED. Remove excess liquid, then let dry overnite for better results.

As far as I know, the product can still be found at Lowe's.

 Jeremy

[SteamFreak]

try lowes, thats where jeff gets his. its in th electrical section. blue can with 2-26 in big white letters

Thanks for the heads-up. I'll have to get over there asap. 

[Train Master]

try lowes, thats where jeff gets his. its in th electrical section. blue can with 2-26 in big white letters

[SteamFreak]

Does anyone know where 2-26 is still available? I've been hunting high and low, but can't find it anywhere. Auto parts places, electronics parts stores, and nada. I found a post in a tech forum where a guy said he bought some a while ago at Home Depot, and it scanned at $.01 per can, because they were discontinuing it. He bought out their entire stock. Home Depot definitely doesn't have it anymore.

The only place I know it's available is from an American Flyer parts dealer, but I'm not going to pay $15 a can.

[NeO6874]

Hmmm... I'll have to try that. Just curius though, The spec sheet says film type-NON drying, so why would you have to let it dry if it doesn't? And it says it's flamible so wouldn't the sparks from the brushes make it burn off pretty quick? How often do you have to re apply it?

 

the film is non drying, although you have to let the carrier/propellant (which, IF I'm understanding the MSDS sheet right is propane or butane or something along those lines) evaporate so that you don't short anything out.  I think it's kind of like (solvent-based) paint in that respect, where it's (REALLY) flammable when it's still wet, but as soon as the solvent evaporates it's no more flammable than the wood/styrene beneath it...