Rail yard turnouts

[Anonymous]

Hi,Ed;I am sorry that i did not gave you my e-mail address.My e- mail is;[e-mail] I have a 4x8 layout.I would to have 4 to 6 rail yard turnouts with my layout.Thank You very much You Railroad Friend Randel

[Anonymous]

Randel,

I would be happy to draw up some geometry for you concerning the major aspects of a rail yard. Do you have an idea what you are shooting for? After I get the drawing made, I will need your e-mail address to get it to you.

I would also like to recommend two books which I have found quite valuable with my work in the hobby: How to Operate your Model Railroad by Bruce Chub and Track Planning for Realistic Operation by John Armstrong.

I usually check this site every two days so just leave me a note here. Good Luck - Ed

[Anonymous]

hello guys: it sounds to me like you need to get a more flexible system to lay out your yard. generally your yard is the one place you have the least room to work, but it tis one of the most important places on your layout. get rid of the snap switches!!!. if you are really tight on space consider a #4 switch,this is the tightest cuve you can use in a yard, but it will handle most medium to small locos and cars. as mentioned before snap switches are a solid 18" curve. i would stay with the flex track but keep your connections off these switches as wide as possible. it is difficult without knowing how much space you have to recommend things. i use all #6 switches on my layout,but you have to give up some space when you use these. also you have some electrical considerations to think about. ther are many books out there to give you solid info,you should look into that. finally the diffrance between 83 and 100 rail is the hight. the higher the number the taller the rail. i would not get into the habit of mixing the two together. bob

[Anonymous]

Hi,Ed;I would like to have a drawing of the geometry on rail yard turnout.I am still new at this hobby.Please reply as soon as you can.Thank you .Randel

[Anonymous]

First off, DO NOT use Snap Switches in any yard or application where you will be trying to maintain relatively close track center spacing! Why? Because a Snap Switch is no ordinary turnout!
Read the back side of the package carefully and note how they are designed for specific applications, mainly to create 18" rad. curves. that's exactly why the come packaged with that 1/3
18R extra piece of sectional track! It actually completes a WHOLE section of 18"R when attached to the Snap Switch.So you see, you would be severely diverging ( way more so than with a reg. #4 turnout!) from the straight route by using them in ANY situation. Hope this helped. Lastly, NEVER place any curved track between ccrossovers, in your yard or anywhere else.

[Anonymous]

Warren,

I am still a new modeler but I am also a Civil Engineer so I will do my best. 'Snap Switches' are the sharpest variety built by Atlas. They have an 18 inch radius curve built into them. They are also furnished with an additional 18 in rad, 10 deg curve section of track. Since the tangent, the straight portion of the turnout (what modelers call switches to avoid confusing them with the electrical switches we use so often) is nine inches long, assembling Snap Switches with the additional ten degree curve will result in yard tracks at three inches on center. If you rearrange your yard with the ladder track on a twenty degree angle from the body tracks, the yard (body) tracks will be closer together (maybe two inches on center, I'm not sure). I wouldn't use less than two inches on center in HO Scale no matter what. If this is your first layout, I recommend using two and a quarter to two and a half inches on center for your yard tracks since you will be using your fingers more often in the yard than you expect. The way I would do this is by setting the ladder at an angle between twenty and thirty degrees and using flex track for your body tracks. Some experimentation will allow you to establi***he angle you are looking for. If you are worried that you may not get it right, reply to this message and I will draw up the geometry and compute the angle for you.

As for the Code 100 and Code 83 rail ...
All model track is classified by the depth of the rail. Code 100 track is track with a rail 100/1000 inches high. Likewise, code 83 rail is 83/1000 inches high. There are codes 75, 55 and lower if you are interested. The largest rail used on prototype railroads (something like 132 lb rail) is closest to code 83 rail. Many of the 'rivet counters' can't stand code 100 in HO Scale because it is larger than the heaviest rail used. I like it for two reasons. For the reasons cited earlier, it offers beter reliability for operating trains. Second, it is the most widely available track which helps it remain economical. Good luck with your stuff. - Ed

[Anonymous]

Another thing to test at this time, before you start swapping out the turnouts, is how your locomotives run over the turnouts. If you have short frame locomotives like an 0-4-0, it might stall on the plastic frog of the switch (this from experience). If you have longer locos, you should be OK. Also check, do the wheel flanges cause the loco (or cars) to derail - are they too deep or hitting the points?

Good luck,
Doug Murphy
Elgin & State Line RR
Crystal Lake,IL

[Anonymous]

I used to have snap-switches, also. The equivalent radius is an 18" curve which is a very sharp turn. If you use #4 or #6 turnouts the curve is not as sharp and will make your rails closer together. If you used and Atlas track plan it will tell you that the snap-switch and #4 or #6 turnouts are not interchangeable because of the rail spacing problem.

Terry

[Anonymous]

The larger the number on the turnouts the closer you yard tracks will be together.The main difference between code 83 and code 100 rail for practical use is that a lot of older rolling stock have deeper flanges that will hit the ties on code 83 rail, causing your trains to derail.

Russ Boyce

[Anonymous]

Hi, the difference between code 83 and code 100 track is the height of the rail. #83 is more realistic looking and more prototipical. Code 100 in real life would be two or three inches tall for rail height. Not sure what size turnouts yuo bought #4 #6 or what. The bigger the number the more space it uses. Also, I think most of us put the turnouts on the board first, soldar the flex track to the switch and then create the bend in the track then fit and cut to your next switch. This should help to keep the little kinks out of the joints. Hope I helped, Jamie

[Anonymous]

Hello, You are probably using #4 turnouts. If you use #6 or #8 your yard tracks should be closer together.(6 & 8's don't curve as sharply).Flextrack isn't your problem. Code 100 is taller then Code 83. The lower the number the lower the railhead height. Hope this helps, Mike

[Anonymous]

I am trying to set up a rail yard for my layout. I have bought som Atlas Snap-Switches and tried them but it puts the lines of track too far apart. How would I make it so that the lines are closer together? Do I need to put on a different radius section or do I need a different turnout? I am using flex-track for most of my track except for the turnouts. Does this also cause part of the problem? Any help for a novice would be greatly appreciated.

One other question. What's the difference between code 100 and code 83 track?