Total New Guy has questions, needs help!

[Anonymous]

Hi...I'm back. I really appreciated everyone's comments earlier, so thought I'd ask more!
After reading some, and going to my local shop, I bought some track just to get started back into it...and having a blast.
I'm probably going to run HO and N together by the end of it...HO right now, and later use some N...don't ask me why...just want to. Hope that doesn't offend anyone!
But I have a couple questions...
-I'm sticking with HO for now...my old Tyco transformer stinks...it's not smooth at all. Should I get a new one? What brand? Not planning on DCC for now, if that affects my decision...maybe later, but not now. (Too limited on funds)
-Can I do anything to the old transformer to make it better, so I can spend money in other area's?
-Is there anything like automatic de-couplers? Don't know if that's the right term, but I'd like to uncouple trains at a certain point on the layout, and would like to do it remotely?
-Is Bachmann stuff ok? Looks fairly good pricewise, and I don't have TONS to spend...I'm not going for spending a fortune on this stuff, just looking to have some fun.

I'm concentrating on certains area's for my fun...I'm not as concerned about accurately modeling a certain period, place, etc. I'm not really concerned about tons of different rolling stock. I want to do switching, and have lots of activities for my son and myself to do on the RR. Does anyone make crane's, etc. that can be controlled from a distance?

Any help is again much appreciated!
Already having lots of fun with it...looking for the best ways to spend my limited funds and improve the fun level!

Thanks,
jdhermit

[Anonymous]

Hi...I'm back. I really appreciated everyone's comments earlier, so thought I'd ask more!
After reading some, and going to my local shop, I bought some track just to get started back into it...and having a blast.
I'm probably going to run HO and N together by the end of it...HO right now, and later use some N...don't ask me why...just want to. Hope that doesn't offend anyone!
But I have a couple questions...
-I'm sticking with HO for now...my old Tyco transformer stinks...it's not smooth at all. Should I get a new one? What brand? Not planning on DCC for now, if that affects my decision...maybe later, but not now. (Too limited on funds)
-Can I do anything to the old transformer to make it better, so I can spend money in other area's?
-Is there anything like automatic de-couplers? Don't know if that's the right term, but I'd like to uncouple trains at a certain point on the layout, and would like to do it remotely?
-Is Bachmann stuff ok? Looks fairly good pricewise, and I don't have TONS to spend...I'm not going for spending a fortune on this stuff, just looking to have some fun.

I'm concentrating on certains area's for my fun...I'm not as concerned about accurately modeling a certain period, place, etc. I'm not really concerned about tons of different rolling stock. I want to do switching, and have lots of activities for my son and myself to do on the RR. Does anyone make crane's, etc. that can be controlled from a distance?

Any help is again much appreciated!
Already having lots of fun with it...looking for the best ways to spend my limited funds and improve the fun level!

Thanks,
jdhermit

[vsmith]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jdhermit

Sorry for the delay...thanks for all the answers...
I'm thinking I may go HO, as I have some already...I like the O, but really think its too big for my tastes...

Have you looked at Bachmanns On30 stuff.

If I was starting over I would give it a serius look, O guage gear on HO gauge track. and they keep adding new stuff to the line. Sounds like a winner to me.

[vsmith]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jdhermit

Sorry for the delay...thanks for all the answers...
I'm thinking I may go HO, as I have some already...I like the O, but really think its too big for my tastes...

Have you looked at Bachmanns On30 stuff.

If I was starting over I would give it a serius look, O guage gear on HO gauge track. and they keep adding new stuff to the line. Sounds like a winner to me.

[Anonymous]

A suggestion on your layout design. If you might have a layout larger than 4 X 8, consider using more aisles say like the letter E. This will give you much better access than one large surface. The ends can be constructed larger to accomodate curves. I was more concerned with using space than access and wish I built with a narrower base and more aisles.
Have fun!

[Anonymous]

A suggestion on your layout design. If you might have a layout larger than 4 X 8, consider using more aisles say like the letter E. This will give you much better access than one large surface. The ends can be constructed larger to accomodate curves. I was more concerned with using space than access and wish I built with a narrower base and more aisles.
Have fun!

[Anonymous]

you guys have been a wealth of information! I called my LHS and asked some basic questions, but wasn't particularly impressed with their answers.
Rick, awesome info! My room is approx 14' x 14', so not much bigger than the one you describe. But, would prefer to have some of that available for other things, so, even though I earlier said I was leaning to HO, I'm now leaning to N...
My HO stuff is early '70's TYCO. Couple engines, maybe 10 cars. Have two controller's...one is definitely TYCO, the other is (I think...) AHN.
The TYCO one was nice at the time...two dials IIRC, not really sure what to look for, but don't mind replacing it.
So I don't have much invested in HO.
I think my boy will get tired of watching it go around and around, so switching and 'tasks' will be needed. Also want to spend lots of time with scenery and wiring...
I'll have to go look at DCC info on forum as suggested.
We spent hours tonight playing with son's Thomas stuff, so I'm all ready to go get some "Daddy trains".
But I guess they'll wait until I learn more and build my bench(es).
Everyone seems to agree starting with a single 4'x8' layout.

Thanks for info!
jdhermit

[Anonymous]

you guys have been a wealth of information! I called my LHS and asked some basic questions, but wasn't particularly impressed with their answers.
Rick, awesome info! My room is approx 14' x 14', so not much bigger than the one you describe. But, would prefer to have some of that available for other things, so, even though I earlier said I was leaning to HO, I'm now leaning to N...
My HO stuff is early '70's TYCO. Couple engines, maybe 10 cars. Have two controller's...one is definitely TYCO, the other is (I think...) AHN.
The TYCO one was nice at the time...two dials IIRC, not really sure what to look for, but don't mind replacing it.
So I don't have much invested in HO.
I think my boy will get tired of watching it go around and around, so switching and 'tasks' will be needed. Also want to spend lots of time with scenery and wiring...
I'll have to go look at DCC info on forum as suggested.
We spent hours tonight playing with son's Thomas stuff, so I'm all ready to go get some "Daddy trains".
But I guess they'll wait until I learn more and build my bench(es).
Everyone seems to agree starting with a single 4'x8' layout.

Thanks for info!
jdhermit

[der5997]

I really like Rick's approach on "which scale to choose?" I've also changed from HO to N for basically the same reasons, and at a similar financial loss (although I was able to pick up some N bargains in the change over period.) My younger grandson has a very fine touch with controlling trains, but is 3 years older than your son, JD. I've been leary of letting him re-rail stock, but reading what Rick has to say on that maybe I'll change there too!
I'm off to lurk at the Atlas DCC forum since I want to go DCC, I think, and don't know enough about it.
Member BRAKIE had a comment in another thread about things that are not so great about DCC. If anyone following this knows him, perhaps you could ask him to tell us all what these are. He hasn't replied to the direct question in that thread.
JD, sounds like your are going to have a great time getting back in.

[der5997]

I really like Rick's approach on "which scale to choose?" I've also changed from HO to N for basically the same reasons, and at a similar financial loss (although I was able to pick up some N bargains in the change over period.) My younger grandson has a very fine touch with controlling trains, but is 3 years older than your son, JD. I've been leary of letting him re-rail stock, but reading what Rick has to say on that maybe I'll change there too!
I'm off to lurk at the Atlas DCC forum since I want to go DCC, I think, and don't know enough about it.
Member BRAKIE had a comment in another thread about things that are not so great about DCC. If anyone following this knows him, perhaps you could ask him to tell us all what these are. He hasn't replied to the direct question in that thread.
JD, sounds like your are going to have a great time getting back in.

[Anonymous]

Sign on to the National Model Railroad Association web site. You can find a wealth of basic information on all gauges especially for beginners, as well as DCC. If you like it join.

Tom

[Anonymous]

Sign on to the National Model Railroad Association web site. You can find a wealth of basic information on all gauges especially for beginners, as well as DCC. If you like it join.

Tom

[Anonymous]

jdhermit--

I think Rick has given some excellent advice here. When I got back in the hobby a few years ago, I toyed with the idea of N but stuck with HO because I had some equipment from 25 years ago. As it turns out, though, the brass track, Tyco, AHM, and Bachmann rolling stock, and the variable resistor power supplies are JUNK and I haven't used them at all.

Both HO and N equipment runs well--at least the quality equipment, as Dave Nelson points out--so look at your space and what you want to do with it.

Gary

[Anonymous]

jdhermit--

I think Rick has given some excellent advice here. When I got back in the hobby a few years ago, I toyed with the idea of N but stuck with HO because I had some equipment from 25 years ago. As it turns out, though, the brass track, Tyco, AHM, and Bachmann rolling stock, and the variable resistor power supplies are JUNK and I haven't used them at all.

Both HO and N equipment runs well--at least the quality equipment, as Dave Nelson points out--so look at your space and what you want to do with it.

Gary

[Anonymous]

I am adding this to my "prolegomena" in response to N versus HO for a child. When my son was around 5, I went out and bought about 6 of those really large Tonka toys, like trucks, etc. I was thinking in my adult mode, bigger is better. He never really played with them. First they weren't comfortable in his hands, and secondly they were awkward to manoeuvre. If you go into any toy store you will find most of the toys available for kids to be small, because small is what the kids like. Take your cue from Brio trains. Brio is closer in size to N scale than HO and kids love Brio.

My son learnt how to handle - and still does handle - N scale better than I do. Its amazing how fast that 4 year old will turn into a 16 year old. N scale is a good scale for kids - and they can re-rail it better than you will be able to....lol. Most of the planet will tell you HO is the better size for kids - not really!

[Anonymous]

I am adding this to my "prolegomena" in response to N versus HO for a child. When my son was around 5, I went out and bought about 6 of those really large Tonka toys, like trucks, etc. I was thinking in my adult mode, bigger is better. He never really played with them. First they weren't comfortable in his hands, and secondly they were awkward to manoeuvre. If you go into any toy store you will find most of the toys available for kids to be small, because small is what the kids like. Take your cue from Brio trains. Brio is closer in size to N scale than HO and kids love Brio.

My son learnt how to handle - and still does handle - N scale better than I do. Its amazing how fast that 4 year old will turn into a 16 year old. N scale is a good scale for kids - and they can re-rail it better than you will be able to....lol. Most of the planet will tell you HO is the better size for kids - not really!

[Anonymous]

At first, the hobby can be overwhelming - so much to learn. But first a sales pitch I heard given - and believe now. A chap was at the LHS (local hobby shop) and asked which was the most expensive and cheapest scale to be in; I think he wanted cheap...lol. The proprietor said all the scales were equal. Why? Well we addicted hobbyist will spend what we can afford, and then some. So whether we are buying in N scale or G scale the amount spent is about the same. For example, an avid N scaler is likely to buy two or three of the same engines when it comes out, particularly if you are into contemporary running. That same amount of money will buy the G guy one engine. So they both spend the same amounts but get different quantities.

For you to get effective advise, narrow your questions down, and do it somewhat systematically as to where you are going in your planning.

For example, most guys start out with a "favoured" scale. I would suggest you abandon that approach which about 99.8% of all hobbyist do and instead ask yourself this question.

"What scale will make the most effective use of the space I have available?" Don't be afraid to dream big dreams, but as most of us have to do, don't be surprised when you have to compromise or totally eliminate something from your list.

For example, I have an 13 1/2 long by 7 foot wide room, widening to 9 1/2 feet about half way down. One thing I wanted was an "empire." Heck, I didn't even like N scale, but my dislike of N scale wasn't as strong as my desire for an "empire." So even though I preferred HO, I knew a room that size would give me a "large small" layout in HO.

But in N, I could have my empire. So how did I learn to like N. Well for starters when I visited shows I looked mostly at the N layouts. A group from Tacoma has a Modular layout that is excellent. When I saw that layout, with an excellent scenicking job, I knew I could be happy in N. But the first N engine I brought home and plunked down on bare plywood looked pretty pathetic, I must confess. I have learnt that N engines cry out for scenicking more than HO engines.

Secondly, I learnt another important lesson that I have never seen addressed anywhere. A friend of mine invited me and my son to his home as he had a G garden layout (really more of a forest layout) that he wanted to try ops on. He knew my son and I were more into opps, most of his guests just wanted to see the trains run. When I got there, his layout was mostly track on platform with a paucity of structures. That was the first time I actively had to use a very vivid imagination to know where and why to stop and what to do.

When I reflected on this on the drive back home, I realized that all scales really need an active imagination to be effective, no matter how well scenicked, and I include guys like Selios's layout.

So it seems to me your first choice is to struggle with your scale size. If your equipment is as old as you say and unless it is expensive brass, I would hold your choice of HO in suspended animation for a while, and compare your layout space, your given and druthers, financial considerations, and political boundaries - "No, not there dear!" - and any thing else that might affect you. Then decide on scale. Lots of guys have switched scales, but it is costly. I switched from HO to N and sold around 80% of all my HO equipment; of course at a loss. By the way, I owned then - and still do - a Royal Hudson in HO that cost around $1200. I didn't let that intimidate me from changing scales.

DCC - I was tempted to say get yourself a used quality MRC dc power pack and be away to the races. But dc will slowly be setting into the sunset over time. Some new engines you purchase may already have a decoder in it so you will want to take advantage of that. I will list some of the things dcc can do (not all of it is out there in decoders for all scales yet - but it will be)
1) Auto coupling and uncoupling - a great thing for a yard switcher
2) sound
3) directional lighting
4) USP - less dependency on track for power and signals
5) consisting
6) scale speed steps
7) auto-route switch throwing
8) easier computer interface
9) lol... forgot the obvious one - easier wiring due to less blocks (unless computer running)
10) more R&D - there is virtually no R&D happening in dc. In time, I am willing to bet you will see MRC reduce the number of dc power packs available as they realize they are flogging old technology.

Hang out in a dcc forum that isn't loaded with a bunch of keener's (Digitrax has the market on all the geeks with the plastic pocket protectors). Why? Well you will feel less intimidated about asking beginner questions and other beginners will ask question there as well. The DCC forum in Atlas is good that way - some really good competent people and lots of beginners. So you can start a thread there like - "Hi, I'm a newbie and don't understand DCC, any help appreciated" - and you will get lots of good responses.

Newbie questions are important on a forum. There are lots of lurkers who never really de-cloak and they read the newbie questions in droves, as those questions are their questions. Often lurker's feel intimidated by forums and will spend massive amounts of time lurking, reading, and learning and never post once. So newbie questions are important.

[Anonymous]

At first, the hobby can be overwhelming - so much to learn. But first a sales pitch I heard given - and believe now. A chap was at the LHS (local hobby shop) and asked which was the most expensive and cheapest scale to be in; I think he wanted cheap...lol. The proprietor said all the scales were equal. Why? Well we addicted hobbyist will spend what we can afford, and then some. So whether we are buying in N scale or G scale the amount spent is about the same. For example, an avid N scaler is likely to buy two or three of the same engines when it comes out, particularly if you are into contemporary running. That same amount of money will buy the G guy one engine. So they both spend the same amounts but get different quantities.

For you to get effective advise, narrow your questions down, and do it somewhat systematically as to where you are going in your planning.

For example, most guys start out with a "favoured" scale. I would suggest you abandon that approach which about 99.8% of all hobbyist do and instead ask yourself this question.

"What scale will make the most effective use of the space I have available?" Don't be afraid to dream big dreams, but as most of us have to do, don't be surprised when you have to compromise or totally eliminate something from your list.

For example, I have an 13 1/2 long by 7 foot wide room, widening to 9 1/2 feet about half way down. One thing I wanted was an "empire." Heck, I didn't even like N scale, but my dislike of N scale wasn't as strong as my desire for an "empire." So even though I preferred HO, I knew a room that size would give me a "large small" layout in HO.

But in N, I could have my empire. So how did I learn to like N. Well for starters when I visited shows I looked mostly at the N layouts. A group from Tacoma has a Modular layout that is excellent. When I saw that layout, with an excellent scenicking job, I knew I could be happy in N. But the first N engine I brought home and plunked down on bare plywood looked pretty pathetic, I must confess. I have learnt that N engines cry out for scenicking more than HO engines.

Secondly, I learnt another important lesson that I have never seen addressed anywhere. A friend of mine invited me and my son to his home as he had a G garden layout (really more of a forest layout) that he wanted to try ops on. He knew my son and I were more into opps, most of his guests just wanted to see the trains run. When I got there, his layout was mostly track on platform with a paucity of structures. That was the first time I actively had to use a very vivid imagination to know where and why to stop and what to do.

When I reflected on this on the drive back home, I realized that all scales really need an active imagination to be effective, no matter how well scenicked, and I include guys like Selios's layout.

So it seems to me your first choice is to struggle with your scale size. If your equipment is as old as you say and unless it is expensive brass, I would hold your choice of HO in suspended animation for a while, and compare your layout space, your given and druthers, financial considerations, and political boundaries - "No, not there dear!" - and any thing else that might affect you. Then decide on scale. Lots of guys have switched scales, but it is costly. I switched from HO to N and sold around 80% of all my HO equipment; of course at a loss. By the way, I owned then - and still do - a Royal Hudson in HO that cost around $1200. I didn't let that intimidate me from changing scales.

DCC - I was tempted to say get yourself a used quality MRC dc power pack and be away to the races. But dc will slowly be setting into the sunset over time. Some new engines you purchase may already have a decoder in it so you will want to take advantage of that. I will list some of the things dcc can do (not all of it is out there in decoders for all scales yet - but it will be)
1) Auto coupling and uncoupling - a great thing for a yard switcher
2) sound
3) directional lighting
4) USP - less dependency on track for power and signals
5) consisting
6) scale speed steps
7) auto-route switch throwing
8) easier computer interface
9) lol... forgot the obvious one - easier wiring due to less blocks (unless computer running)
10) more R&D - there is virtually no R&D happening in dc. In time, I am willing to bet you will see MRC reduce the number of dc power packs available as they realize they are flogging old technology.

Hang out in a dcc forum that isn't loaded with a bunch of keener's (Digitrax has the market on all the geeks with the plastic pocket protectors). Why? Well you will feel less intimidated about asking beginner questions and other beginners will ask question there as well. The DCC forum in Atlas is good that way - some really good competent people and lots of beginners. So you can start a thread there like - "Hi, I'm a newbie and don't understand DCC, any help appreciated" - and you will get lots of good responses.

Newbie questions are important on a forum. There are lots of lurkers who never really de-cloak and they read the newbie questions in droves, as those questions are their questions. Often lurker's feel intimidated by forums and will spend massive amounts of time lurking, reading, and learning and never post once. So newbie questions are important.

[Anonymous]

great info, Sask_Tinplater! So, is there a good source for determining which era I want to model? Like, somewhere I can see info like you gave me on the transition era?
My entire train knowledge of late IS from Thomas! Guess that's the product of having a four year old who is a train FREAK. He eats, sleeps and breathes trains!

[Anonymous]

great info, Sask_Tinplater! So, is there a good source for determining which era I want to model? Like, somewhere I can see info like you gave me on the transition era?
My entire train knowledge of late IS from Thomas! Guess that's the product of having a four year old who is a train FREAK. He eats, sleeps and breathes trains!

[Anonymous]

In regards to your question on what years steam would include. In North America steam locomotives were used from the early 1800's right up until the late 1950's (Canada lasted until 1960). You could pick almost any period in that time frame. One of the most popular eras to model in is the "transition era" in the 1950's. At this time steam was being replaced by diesel, so it enables modelers to run both steam and diesel. As for the prices of steam engines, you can spend very little or a whole lot. There are some really cheap switchers and tank engines (since you're a total new guy I should mention that when I say tank engines that has nothing to do with Thomas) that cost as little as $20. If you really wanted to go high end there are really expensive brass models that can cost over $1000! So there is enough of a price range that you should be able to fnd what you're looking for. Good luck in building your layout!

[Anonymous]

In regards to your question on what years steam would include. In North America steam locomotives were used from the early 1800's right up until the late 1950's (Canada lasted until 1960). You could pick almost any period in that time frame. One of the most popular eras to model in is the "transition era" in the 1950's. At this time steam was being replaced by diesel, so it enables modelers to run both steam and diesel. As for the prices of steam engines, you can spend very little or a whole lot. There are some really cheap switchers and tank engines (since you're a total new guy I should mention that when I say tank engines that has nothing to do with Thomas) that cost as little as $20. If you really wanted to go high end there are really expensive brass models that can cost over $1000! So there is enough of a price range that you should be able to fnd what you're looking for. Good luck in building your layout!

[Anonymous]

PS- I'll read up on it, but can anybody in a nutshell tell me what this DCC is?
Is that the way I'll get sounds? Or the way I'll control everything?
Does it hook into a PC?
I know, I should read before asking...
Sorry.

jdhermit

[Anonymous]

PS- I'll read up on it, but can anybody in a nutshell tell me what this DCC is?
Is that the way I'll get sounds? Or the way I'll control everything?
Does it hook into a PC?
I know, I should read before asking...
Sorry.

jdhermit

[Anonymous]

Sorry for the delay...thanks for all the answers...
I'm thinking I may go HO, as I have some already...I like the O, but really think its too big for my tastes...
So...
Tonight I'll post some specifics on my existing power pack, maybe someone will tell me if I should just use it for running accessories.
-If I want sounds, and electronic control and hooking up to a PC, etc...what do I need? A different engine or a different controller? See I'm REALLY new at this! :)
-I want to model somewhat accurately, but I'm not going to be a huge stickler on it. I want to go Steam, but not sure what years that could encompass?
-If I go HO, and if I go Steam, what brand would be good? How much is a mid-priced engine?

Thanks, again, for all the info!

jdhermit

[Anonymous]

Sorry for the delay...thanks for all the answers...
I'm thinking I may go HO, as I have some already...I like the O, but really think its too big for my tastes...
So...
Tonight I'll post some specifics on my existing power pack, maybe someone will tell me if I should just use it for running accessories.
-If I want sounds, and electronic control and hooking up to a PC, etc...what do I need? A different engine or a different controller? See I'm REALLY new at this! :)
-I want to model somewhat accurately, but I'm not going to be a huge stickler on it. I want to go Steam, but not sure what years that could encompass?
-If I go HO, and if I go Steam, what brand would be good? How much is a mid-priced engine?

Thanks, again, for all the info!

jdhermit

[der5997]

robmik is right about not throwing out the old variable resistor power packs. Just check to see that the cords are sound, and there are no signs that the unit has overheated in the past. (You would know that for your own equipment, but maybe not for stuff bought at Yard Sales or Swap Meets.) Extra power sources are very handy for lights and accessories. It's the AC side that's used for those. So it doesn't matter if the DC side is not even working. A voltmeter soon becomes a "must have" in this hobby!

[der5997]

robmik is right about not throwing out the old variable resistor power packs. Just check to see that the cords are sound, and there are no signs that the unit has overheated in the past. (You would know that for your own equipment, but maybe not for stuff bought at Yard Sales or Swap Meets.) Extra power sources are very handy for lights and accessories. It's the AC side that's used for those. So it doesn't matter if the DC side is not even working. A voltmeter soon becomes a "must have" in this hobby!

[dknelson]

Cheap HO is as bad as ever actually , but there are nice options now for true beginners, including the Walthers trainset line which I think has pretty decent quality.

Another change: twenty five years ago Bachmann and Life Like were cheap junk now they have some of the finest stuff around.

Maybe the biggest change in HO -- we have finally accepted the knuckle style coupler as a standard even for beginners -- what an irony that beginners for years had the coupler most likely to make them want to give up. You have to be a careful modeler to make hornhooks work right by which time you probably have moved on to Kadees.

Dave Nelson