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Power problems
Power problems
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Power problems
Posted by
Anonymous
on Tuesday, July 15, 2003 12:13 AM
Got my son a great double train set from life like with the power-lok track for Christmas. We have added a couple engines and some more rolling stock, etc... However, trains recently began running very sluggish, skiping and often not starting up without a little help to start momentum. Used brite boy to clean the tracks - helped some - and we even just changed over to the mrc Tech 4 280 controller and are running the accessories from one of the old power packs - but the problem persists. He loves trains - dad needs HELP!!!
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Power problems
Posted by
Anonymous
on Tuesday, July 15, 2003 12:13 AM
Got my son a great double train set from life like with the power-lok track for Christmas. We have added a couple engines and some more rolling stock, etc... However, trains recently began running very sluggish, skiping and often not starting up without a little help to start momentum. Used brite boy to clean the tracks - helped some - and we even just changed over to the mrc Tech 4 280 controller and are running the accessories from one of the old power packs - but the problem persists. He loves trains - dad needs HELP!!!
Reply
Edit
Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Tuesday, July 15, 2003 12:30 AM
Have you tried railzip? I had problems running my trains. They'd stop at certain points, and I'd nudge them to get them running again. Ome of the hobby shops in my area suggested this product. Since I started using it, trouble went away. Hope this helps.
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Tuesday, July 15, 2003 12:30 AM
Have you tried railzip? I had problems running my trains. They'd stop at certain points, and I'd nudge them to get them running again. Ome of the hobby shops in my area suggested this product. Since I started using it, trouble went away. Hope this helps.
Reply
Edit
Kent
Member since
July 2003
141 posts
Posted by
Kent
on Tuesday, July 15, 2003 1:38 AM
Cleaning the track is not always enough. YOu also need to clean the power pickup wheels on the locomotive.
A good paper towel wetted with rubbing alcohol (99% is best). Place accros the track and sit one set wheel on the paper towel and touch the other to the live track and run the power, then do the other end.
I've also had to take the trucks apart and clean the contacts between the axels and the contact strips. Dust will build on in the grease and cause contact problems. Be very careful if you take the truck apart, note how everything goes and take your time!!!
Kent Timm, author of ZugDCC for Lenz XpressNet DCC
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Kent
Member since
July 2003
141 posts
Posted by
Kent
on Tuesday, July 15, 2003 1:38 AM
Cleaning the track is not always enough. YOu also need to clean the power pickup wheels on the locomotive.
A good paper towel wetted with rubbing alcohol (99% is best). Place accros the track and sit one set wheel on the paper towel and touch the other to the live track and run the power, then do the other end.
I've also had to take the trucks apart and clean the contacts between the axels and the contact strips. Dust will build on in the grease and cause contact problems. Be very careful if you take the truck apart, note how everything goes and take your time!!!
Kent Timm, author of ZugDCC for Lenz XpressNet DCC
Reply
Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Tuesday, July 15, 2003 8:31 AM
Choo Choo and Kent - thanks for the help - we will give this a shot today to see what happens.
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Tuesday, July 15, 2003 8:31 AM
Choo Choo and Kent - thanks for the help - we will give this a shot today to see what happens.
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BR60103
Member since
January 2001
From: Guelph, Ont.
1,476 posts
Posted by
BR60103
on Wednesday, July 16, 2003 10:04 PM
If you find that cleaning the loco wheels helps, you probably now need to clean all the other wheels.
put a paper towel over a straight length of track and wet an inch or two of the bit over the track with the rail cleaner. Run a car over this bit and onto the dry towel. (don't snag the couplers and other dangly bits.) Run it back and forth and see the black stripes. Shift the towel so that the black strips aren't over the rails and repeat until you don't get black strips anymore. Now do the next car.
This is the gunk (official term) that builds up on wheels. If you leave it on, it goes back onto the rails and then onto your pickup wheels. Plastic wheels get more than metal, but all do get some.
--David
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BR60103
Member since
January 2001
From: Guelph, Ont.
1,476 posts
Posted by
BR60103
on Wednesday, July 16, 2003 10:04 PM
If you find that cleaning the loco wheels helps, you probably now need to clean all the other wheels.
put a paper towel over a straight length of track and wet an inch or two of the bit over the track with the rail cleaner. Run a car over this bit and onto the dry towel. (don't snag the couplers and other dangly bits.) Run it back and forth and see the black stripes. Shift the towel so that the black strips aren't over the rails and repeat until you don't get black strips anymore. Now do the next car.
This is the gunk (official term) that builds up on wheels. If you leave it on, it goes back onto the rails and then onto your pickup wheels. Plastic wheels get more than metal, but all do get some.
--David
Reply
IRONROOSTER
Member since
June 2003
From: Culpeper, Va
8,204 posts
Posted by
IRONROOSTER
on Wednesday, July 16, 2003 10:50 PM
Make sure all your wire to track and track to track connections are tight and clean. If your willing to disassemble the engine, another thing to check is the commuter in the motor the part that spins under the brushes, use a little railzip with swab or pipe cleaner bent double (to avoid scratching) to clean it. Visually check that the brushes are making good contact. Note: This is only possible with open frame motors.
If you're having fun, you're doing it the right way.
Reply
IRONROOSTER
Member since
June 2003
From: Culpeper, Va
8,204 posts
Posted by
IRONROOSTER
on Wednesday, July 16, 2003 10:50 PM
Make sure all your wire to track and track to track connections are tight and clean. If your willing to disassemble the engine, another thing to check is the commuter in the motor the part that spins under the brushes, use a little railzip with swab or pipe cleaner bent double (to avoid scratching) to clean it. Visually check that the brushes are making good contact. Note: This is only possible with open frame motors.
If you're having fun, you're doing it the right way.
Reply
Wdlgln005
Member since
April 2002
From: Nashville TN
1,306 posts
Posted by
Wdlgln005
on Wednesday, July 16, 2003 10:54 PM
rslate
While cleaning the track & wheels it would be a good idea to check that the tracl itself stays in gague & all connections are set. Most sectional track relies on the rail joiners to make electrical contact with the next section & come loose over time. I don't know if power-lok suffers from the same fate but you may find a bad connector makes a world of difference when readjusted and any contact points cleaned. Have fun model railroading!
Glenn Woodle
Reply
Wdlgln005
Member since
April 2002
From: Nashville TN
1,306 posts
Posted by
Wdlgln005
on Wednesday, July 16, 2003 10:54 PM
rslate
While cleaning the track & wheels it would be a good idea to check that the tracl itself stays in gague & all connections are set. Most sectional track relies on the rail joiners to make electrical contact with the next section & come loose over time. I don't know if power-lok suffers from the same fate but you may find a bad connector makes a world of difference when readjusted and any contact points cleaned. Have fun model railroading!
Glenn Woodle
Reply
Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Thursday, July 17, 2003 1:26 AM
Track joiners work (move relative to each other) and the fretting compounds that build up in the joint are usually oxides that do not conduct. So if the interruption happens on the same rail, it may be isolated.
There are two surface problems in the track itself. Tarnish, or sulfite corrosion reduces the power to the motor. Then there is dirt that is possibly burnt by the sparks. The electric spark or the slipping of the wheels burns the oil and other lube products. IMHO, clean the dirt off with rubbing alcohol and poli***he rails with either a mild abrasive or metal polish. I use Masonite pads and clean them with a vinyl eraser. When the engine gets sluggish, clean the wheels that conduct power. Occasionally, clean the tracks and vacuum the track. Keep the room clean.
Lindsay
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Thursday, July 17, 2003 1:26 AM
Track joiners work (move relative to each other) and the fretting compounds that build up in the joint are usually oxides that do not conduct. So if the interruption happens on the same rail, it may be isolated.
There are two surface problems in the track itself. Tarnish, or sulfite corrosion reduces the power to the motor. Then there is dirt that is possibly burnt by the sparks. The electric spark or the slipping of the wheels burns the oil and other lube products. IMHO, clean the dirt off with rubbing alcohol and poli***he rails with either a mild abrasive or metal polish. I use Masonite pads and clean them with a vinyl eraser. When the engine gets sluggish, clean the wheels that conduct power. Occasionally, clean the tracks and vacuum the track. Keep the room clean.
Lindsay
Reply
Edit
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