Passenger Car Recommendations

[Anonymous]

I'd like to add some passenger cars to my layout. I'm modelling HO scale, and I like the look of streamliners. I have midwestern roads--Union Pacific, Santa Fe, and the CB&Q--on my layout. I'm leaning toward one of the new Rivarrossi UP sets right now.

I can't afford brass, so it's plastic or nothing. I have 24" radius and 26 1/4" radius curves, with no. 6 turnouts on the mainline. Some have told me the curves are too tight for full length cars, though.

Should I go with the Athearn cars, which are cheaper, but shortened? Walthers? I saw some IHC cars at my LTS and was not impressed.

Gary

[Anonymous]

I'd like to add some passenger cars to my layout. I'm modelling HO scale, and I like the look of streamliners. I have midwestern roads--Union Pacific, Santa Fe, and the CB&Q--on my layout. I'm leaning toward one of the new Rivarrossi UP sets right now.

I can't afford brass, so it's plastic or nothing. I have 24" radius and 26 1/4" radius curves, with no. 6 turnouts on the mainline. Some have told me the curves are too tight for full length cars, though.

Should I go with the Athearn cars, which are cheaper, but shortened? Walthers? I saw some IHC cars at my LTS and was not impressed.

Gary

[Anonymous]

Athearn shorties will look the best on your curves, but full-length cars will run. Walthers or Rivarossi would be best if you go full-length.

[Anonymous]

Athearn shorties will look the best on your curves, but full-length cars will run. Walthers or Rivarossi would be best if you go full-length.

[Anonymous]

In my walthers budd car passenger experience I have discovered servere wheel drag.

My 18 oz Atlas Dash 8-32BW would now pull five budds.(I own eleven)
I traded up to IM ball-bearing(very pricey) and their standard non-ball bearing.

Should you consider please realize that the budd wheels pick up current from both rails
in order for the optional light bar to work.

The light bar is great, no flickering.

Also consider adding sitting passengers.

I also own the Kato business car and that has a very chintzy light kit but has a good roll.

[Anonymous]

In my walthers budd car passenger experience I have discovered servere wheel drag.

My 18 oz Atlas Dash 8-32BW would now pull five budds.(I own eleven)
I traded up to IM ball-bearing(very pricey) and their standard non-ball bearing.

Should you consider please realize that the budd wheels pick up current from both rails
in order for the optional light bar to work.

The light bar is great, no flickering.

Also consider adding sitting passengers.

I also own the Kato business car and that has a very chintzy light kit but has a good roll.

[AntonioFP45]

The Walther's passenger cars are gorgeous. My LHS rep reminded me though that the journals must be lubricated occasionally or you will eventually hear "squealing". The Labelle lubricants should do the job.

I've traded or sold all of my Athearn passenger cars. My fleet is now mostly Rivorossi streamliners which I'm installing interiors and cutting off the skirts for a "1960s look". I'm purchasing Walther's cars in the SCL scheme. (just one at a time).

[AntonioFP45]

The Walther's passenger cars are gorgeous. My LHS rep reminded me though that the journals must be lubricated occasionally or you will eventually hear "squealing". The Labelle lubricants should do the job.

I've traded or sold all of my Athearn passenger cars. My fleet is now mostly Rivorossi streamliners which I'm installing interiors and cutting off the skirts for a "1960s look". I'm purchasing Walther's cars in the SCL scheme. (just one at a time).

[CP5415]

I guess it depends on wether or not it matters to you if the cars look right or not.
I have 22" curves on my layout & I don't have any problems with any of my passenger cars at high speeds.
The cars include ones from Athearn (including the Bombardier cars), Rivarossi (old) & Walthers cars.
Go with what you can afford & looks good to you.

Just my 2 cents

Gordon

[CP5415]

I guess it depends on wether or not it matters to you if the cars look right or not.
I have 22" curves on my layout & I don't have any problems with any of my passenger cars at high speeds.
The cars include ones from Athearn (including the Bombardier cars), Rivarossi (old) & Walthers cars.
Go with what you can afford & looks good to you.

Just my 2 cents

Gordon

[CBQ_Guy]

Con-Cor also makes some reasonably priced passenger cars in HO, IMO

http://www.all-railroads.com/instock/ho85pass.htm


Also assembled:

http://www.all-railroads.com/instock/ho85ambl.htm


http://www.all-railroads.com/instock/hosliner.htm


Also, 72 footers:

http://www.all-railroads.com/instock/ho72pass.htm

Hope this helps...

[CBQ_Guy]

Con-Cor also makes some reasonably priced passenger cars in HO, IMO

http://www.all-railroads.com/instock/ho85pass.htm


Also assembled:

http://www.all-railroads.com/instock/ho85ambl.htm


http://www.all-railroads.com/instock/hosliner.htm


Also, 72 footers:

http://www.all-railroads.com/instock/ho72pass.htm

Hope this helps...

[Anonymous]

I was surprised to see this topic come back after a year. Thanks for the info, all. Since last year I've bought some Rivarossi cars on sale at Trainworld. With modification they work ok and the price can't be beat. I'm not real happy with the overhang on corners, but I can live with it. I also bought a Frisco E8, so the Con-Cor Frisco cars Paul has a link to look tempting.

Gary

[Anonymous]

I was surprised to see this topic come back after a year. Thanks for the info, all. Since last year I've bought some Rivarossi cars on sale at Trainworld. With modification they work ok and the price can't be beat. I'm not real happy with the overhang on corners, but I can live with it. I also bought a Frisco E8, so the Con-Cor Frisco cars Paul has a link to look tempting.

Gary

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by AntonioFP45

The Walther's passenger cars are gorgeous. My LHS rep reminded me though that the journals must be lubricated occasionally or you will eventually hear "squealing". The Labelle lubricants should do the job.

I

And I still get the squeal with IMs upgrades, so yes, an occasional lube is necessary on my Budds.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by AntonioFP45

The Walther's passenger cars are gorgeous. My LHS rep reminded me though that the journals must be lubricated occasionally or you will eventually hear "squealing". The Labelle lubricants should do the job.

I

And I still get the squeal with IMs upgrades, so yes, an occasional lube is necessary on my Budds.

[Don Gibson]

All present commercial passenger cars will run on 24" radius curves. They look octagonal rather than circular, and coupling and uncoupling becomes iffy.

Athearn and ConCor both make 'shortened' versions (72') which help with this. The difference is Athearn's are corregated and the Con Cor smooth sided.

Rivarossi - through Walthers - has some heavyweight 'shorties' that ARE prototypical . I would try to get some of these while they are still available.

Tenshodo , Penn Line, and OK Streamliner made 60 footers back in the days when 4 X 8 Atlas plans were extremely popular. Sometimes they show up on EBay.

Hope this helps.

[Don Gibson]

All present commercial passenger cars will run on 24" radius curves. They look octagonal rather than circular, and coupling and uncoupling becomes iffy.

Athearn and ConCor both make 'shortened' versions (72') which help with this. The difference is Athearn's are corregated and the Con Cor smooth sided.

Rivarossi - through Walthers - has some heavyweight 'shorties' that ARE prototypical . I would try to get some of these while they are still available.

Tenshodo , Penn Line, and OK Streamliner made 60 footers back in the days when 4 X 8 Atlas plans were extremely popular. Sometimes they show up on EBay.

Hope this helps.

[Don Gibson]

Tampa Bay Tony:
Chuck Walsh:

May I suggest a LaBell (or someother brand) Teflon Grease (rather than oil) for Budd or other wheel journals?

1. Once rolling there is no friction.
2. Starting resistance is not a problem - I thought there would be.
3. It won't ooze out, like oil onto the track.
4. No 'squeak's for a longer period of time,
The WORST is Graphite because it conducts electricity.

Cotton swabs and alchohol and clean out your wheel jounals. Apply a tiny dab of teflon grease to the axle points. Remember the phrase: 'A little Dab 'll do ya'?
Your probably not ancient enough.

[Don Gibson]

Tampa Bay Tony:
Chuck Walsh:

May I suggest a LaBell (or someother brand) Teflon Grease (rather than oil) for Budd or other wheel journals?

1. Once rolling there is no friction.
2. Starting resistance is not a problem - I thought there would be.
3. It won't ooze out, like oil onto the track.
4. No 'squeak's for a longer period of time,
The WORST is Graphite because it conducts electricity.

Cotton swabs and alchohol and clean out your wheel jounals. Apply a tiny dab of teflon grease to the axle points. Remember the phrase: 'A little Dab 'll do ya'?
Your probably not ancient enough.

[AntonioFP45]

Thanks Don, [;)]

I think that on the other Walther's Cars related thread you agreed that "Molybdenum" can work well also as it is an electrical conducting grease that also contains crushed graphite. This in turn eliminates the problem of regular graphite coating the rails. [:D]

Two benefits in one! Electrical conductivity (for the lighting kit) along with eliminating axle squeal [:0] (just got a brand new Walther's car that has one squealing axle. Good goobly! Is it annoying!)

This item can be found in most electronics supply stores. I think some hobby stores carry it and they call it "Molly magic".

Cheers! [:D][8D][8)]

[AntonioFP45]

Thanks Don, [;)]

I think that on the other Walther's Cars related thread you agreed that "Molybdenum" can work well also as it is an electrical conducting grease that also contains crushed graphite. This in turn eliminates the problem of regular graphite coating the rails. [:D]

Two benefits in one! Electrical conductivity (for the lighting kit) along with eliminating axle squeal [:0] (just got a brand new Walther's car that has one squealing axle. Good goobly! Is it annoying!)

This item can be found in most electronics supply stores. I think some hobby stores carry it and they call it "Molly magic".

Cheers! [:D][8D][8)]

[bogp40]

[

QUOTE: quote]Originally posted by AntonioFP45
[br]Thanks Don, [;)]

I think that on the other Walther's Cars related thread you agreed that "Molybdenum" can work well also as it is an electrical conducting grease that also contains crushed graphite. This in turn eliminates the problem of regular graphite coating the rails. [:D]

Two benefits in one! Electrical conductivity (for the lighting kit) along with eliminating axle squeal [:0] (just got a brand new Walther's car that has one squealing axle. Good goobly! Is it annoying!)

This item can be found in most electronics supply stores. I think some hobby stores carry it and they call it "Molly magic".

Be careful using molybdenum products many are not plastic compatible, and if so the grease is or becomes very sticky. Years ago during the "Pinewood Derby" Cub Scout races, many cars were lubed w/ moly they were the slowest . Moly greases are best left to heavy bearing journals, bushings and machinery assembly. There is a thread on lubing Athearn gears- one member recommends the use of transmission fluid, sounds very good- have to give it a try. I have always used graphite or labelle.Bob K.

[bogp40]

[

QUOTE: quote]Originally posted by AntonioFP45
[br]Thanks Don, [;)]

I think that on the other Walther's Cars related thread you agreed that "Molybdenum" can work well also as it is an electrical conducting grease that also contains crushed graphite. This in turn eliminates the problem of regular graphite coating the rails. [:D]

Two benefits in one! Electrical conductivity (for the lighting kit) along with eliminating axle squeal [:0] (just got a brand new Walther's car that has one squealing axle. Good goobly! Is it annoying!)

This item can be found in most electronics supply stores. I think some hobby stores carry it and they call it "Molly magic".

Be careful using molybdenum products many are not plastic compatible, and if so the grease is or becomes very sticky. Years ago during the "Pinewood Derby" Cub Scout races, many cars were lubed w/ moly they were the slowest . Moly greases are best left to heavy bearing journals, bushings and machinery assembly. There is a thread on lubing Athearn gears- one member recommends the use of transmission fluid, sounds very good- have to give it a try. I have always used graphite or labelle.Bob K.

[Anonymous]

IHC passenger cars are now $9.00 a car. for that price you can't beat them

[Anonymous]

IHC passenger cars are now $9.00 a car. for that price you can't beat them

[AntonioFP45]

Robert,

Thanks for the warning! I still want to try molybdenum, but I'll make sure that it is plastic compatible.

Cheers!

[AntonioFP45]

Robert,

Thanks for the warning! I still want to try molybdenum, but I'll make sure that it is plastic compatible.

Cheers!