+Tips & Tricks+

[tstage]

Not to mention keeping your track cleaner...longer.

Tom

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by chateauricher

Suggestion 1: Change out any wheels on your rolling stock from plastic to low-profile metal wheels for these reasons ...

Low profile wheels have smaller flanges that won't "bump" or "chatter" along the ties of your code 55 track. Atlas makes some that you can buy in packages of 12 axles (enough to re-wheel 3 cars) for about $8.75 CAD (+taxes). I just bought my first pack last week, and re-wheeling 3 cars took all of 5 minutes.

Metal wheels tend to keep both themselves and the track cleaner longer than plastic wheels. The metal-on-metal action actually polishes and cleans the track slightly, making the need to hand-clean less frequent. Plastic-on-metal action builds up a slight static charge which attracts dirt, making it necessary to clean both tracks and wheels more often.

Timothy is correct, the lo profile wheels are a must. The clatter of the flanges hitting the heads of the the "spikes" drives me to distraction. Over the holidays I picked up a pack of Inter-mountain Brass wheel sets and a pack of Micro-trains plastic lo-profile wheel sets. Switching them out is just as easy as Tim said. The metal wheels roll so much easier than the plastic ones that if you like long trains they are worth the extra cost.

[chateauricher]

Suggestion 1: Change out any wheels on your rolling stock from plastic to low-profile metal wheels for these reasons ...

Low profile wheels have smaller flanges that won't "bump" or "chatter" along the ties of your code 55 track. Atlas makes some that you can buy in packages of 12 axles (enough to re-wheel 3 cars) for about $8.75 CAD (+taxes). I just bought my first pack last week, and re-wheeling 3 cars took all of 5 minutes.

Metal wheels tend to keep both themselves and the track cleaner longer than plastic wheels. The metal-on-metal action actually polishes and cleans the track slightly, making the need to hand-clean less frequent. Plastic-on-metal action builds up a slight static charge which attracts dirt, making it necessary to clean both tracks and wheels more often.

Suggestion 2: Be sure to test your track thoroughly and solve any electrical or lay-out problems BEFORE you even start thinking of ballasting. Many modellers leave ballasting for near the end, after almost everything else is done.

Suggestion 3: If you are thinking of eventually converting your layout to DCC, you would be very wise to wire your layout as though it will be DCC from the beginning. This will make any future conversion much simpler since you won't have to be crawling around under the layout nearly as much. http://www.wiringfordcc.com offers some good advice.

[Anonymous]

Is there a big difference between Midwest roadbed and Woodland Scenics roadbed other than the $price$?

[Anonymous]

Everyone has given good advice so far. I would just like to add my vote for the diorama. I am just getting back into this hobby and never did much scenery before. I made a diorama to try out the scenery materials and was very happy with it. It also let me learn from some mistakes without messing up a layout.

I just got my track laid and will be working on it for a while to make sure it is all working properly before even considering doing any scenery. As you lay your track test everything for proper alignment and operation....you will still find problems afterwards (well my engines did!)

The best prices I have found online so far have been at http://1stplacehobbies.com/ They are very reasonably priced and the shipping is mad fast.

Good luck, have fun, and show us lots of pictures! [8D]

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by tstage

Finlay,

To save money for now, you can always just purchase one knucker coupler for one end of one of your pieces of rolling stock. That can serve as your transition car for the other car with different couplers, and allow you to wait until you have enough $$$ to convert the rest of the cars.

Tom

Yes thanks it all makes sense now I am considering going out with my last couple dollars and buying:
1.Cork Roadbed
2.Ballast
3.1 pair of knuckler couplers
4.And probably order online at wholesaletrains.com the railpower 1370. The reason being the Canadian dollar is so high it works out to be about $26.00.

[tstage]

Finlay,

Here's a couple of pics:


Micro-trains "knuckle" coupler (prototypical-looking)


Rapido coupler (non-prototypical-looking)

The Rapido couplers have been around for a number of years. What you can do is to convert your locomotive and one end of ONE of you rolling stock cars with Micro-train couplers first. This car will always be connected to your locomotive, have a Micro-train "knuckle" coupler on one end and the Rapido coupler on the other, and serve as a transition car to your other cars NOT yet converted over to Micro-train couplers. This will allow you to slowly convert all your rolling stock as the monies come in. Does that make more sense now?

Lava, here's more info on N-scale couplers:

http://www.nscaledivision.com/information_on_couplers.htm

Tom

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by tstage

Finley,

To save money for now, you can always just purchase one knucker coupler for one end of one of your pieces of rolling stock. That can serve as your transition car for the other car with different couplers, and allow you to wait until you have enough $$$ to convert the rest of the cars.

Tom

I don't understand what you mean by a knuckler coupler can you explain??

[tstage]

Finlay,

To save money for now, you can always just purchase one knucker coupler for one end of one of your pieces of rolling stock. That can serve as your transition car for the other car with different couplers, and allow you to wait until you have enough $$$ to convert the rest of the cars.

Tom

[Anonymous]

I am looking forward to going to the micro-trains couplers except there are problems:
1. They are pretty pricy $$$.
2. I would have to swap them on all my cars.
3. When I was looking for these other couplers they have plastic wheels(for rolling stock) and I like my Life-Like metal wheels. Can you find any metal wheel magne-matic couplers??? Is it really worth all this??
ALSO thanks guys for the tips & tricks keep up the good work!

[emdgp92]

About the only tip I can give you...is to get rid of the Rapido-style couplers. Replace them with either Atlas or Micro-Trains couplers. They not only look better, but perform better as well.

[tomikawaTT]

A couple of quick notes on trackwork, and getting power through the rails to the locomotive:

1. Lay your track carefully! Models will invariably find any defect and either stall out or derail.

2. Batter your rail ends! One quick swipe with a file to blunt that sharp corner at the top inside of each rail at each joint (done before assembly) dramatically reduces the tendency for wheel flanges to 'pick' and derail if the alignment isn't superperfect.

3. Solder jumpers around every non-insulated rail joint. Don't depend on rail joiners to conduct electricity, especially in a humid climate.

4. Use terminal strips for wiring, so that you can disconnect things when chasing down the inevitable short circuits. I make mine by driving roundhead screws into a board and separating the wires with washers.

5. Document everything!. Give every rail section a unique identifier, then label the terminals with it, as well as a paper diagram. It sounds like a lot of work, but it makes adding rail detection circuits a whole lot easier when you decide to do that.

Best part about all of the above is the added expense - about the price of a McDonaldburger.

Have fun!

[pcarrell]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Finlay

3.What is the difference between N scale track that is code 80 and 50 both made by Atlas??

The main differences in the codes of track have already been hit on by others, so I won't beat a dead horse here. The Atlas stuff you are referring to is code 80 and code 55. You can also get code 40 and if you're willing to hand lay your track you can get code 35 rail in N scale. I wouldn't concern myself with that real small stuff to much right now if I were you.

The main thing is, the finer rail (smaller code number) tends to look a little more realistic, but it's also much more picky. Finer rail won't suffer kinks and bumps as well. You have to be very careful how you lay it. Some of it does poorly with equipment that has large or oversize flanges on the wheels (pizza cutters as they are known). The Atlas code 55 is notorious for this. The finer rails cause the wheels to bump their way over all the ties sometimes. There are fixes for this, but it's a little more work. You can change out the wheelsets on your cars, but the loco's can be more of a challenge. This is mostly a problem with older equipment as most of the newer loco's and rolling stock come with low profile wheels, otherwise known as RP25 compliant.

Also, if you look at the code 80 and code 55 Atlas tracks side by side, you'll notice another difference. The code 55 track has finer ties, and more of them per square inch. This also makes it look a little more realistic, but the difference once it is ballasted is minimal to most people.

The Atlas code 80 stuff is pretty much bullet proof. It's good hearty track that can take a beating and stand up for more. It's hard to go wrong with this stuff. You can even ballest the track and paint and weather it and then it's even harder to tell it from the finer stuff. It can look very good indeed.

Now if you simply like the finer look of the code 55, but can't deal with all the headaches assosiated with it, there is an alternative. Peco code 55 track is really code 80 that's buried in the ties a little bit. It looks like code 55 but it has deeper flangeways like code 80. The main drawbacks are that can be hard to find and it is a bit more expensive. It also has larger ties that are spaced further apart, kind of like the Atlas code 80 track. The Peco is good track though, and can be an excellent alternative.

Now I know that this is probably more that you ever wanted to know about N scale track, but I've always been one of those peole who wants all the info on something, and then I'll sort out what I need.

For you, I'd probably go with the Atlas code 80 or maybe the Peco code 55 if you really feel that the rail height makes a big difference.

If I might switch gears here for a moment, this web site might help with some of the questions that you come up with (if you don't find the answers here);

http://www.vetmed.auburn.edu/~smithbf/BFSpages/LDSIGprimer/TOC.html

[ATSFCLIFF]

Roadbeds give that realistic look for your trackwork. Use cork roadbeds, they are cheap and easy to lay. The many ways of modelling rocks, hills and mountains. You can use styro foam which you can plaster and later carve out rock formations. Use water based latex paint (earth or light brown) to cover your scenic area before using your WS scenic material (grass or turf.)
Cheers,

http://cliffordconceicao3310.fotopic.net/c328807.html

[jeffers_mz]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Finlay

I have 3 questions...
1.Probably a simple question but what is the purpose of roadbed. Why not paint the board or whatever you are laying the track on then lie the track directly on top of it??
2. Is it worth paying for the rock mold stuff or is is just easier and cheaper to use paper mache??
3.What is the difference between N scale track that is code 80 and 50 both made by Atlas??

1. Roadbed provides a stable base for the track. It is usually made of something other than wood, which swells up with changes in humidity, warping track. it helps with noise and raises the track above nominal grade like real track is laid.

2. There are many techniques for modelling rock, plaster, carving foam, carving wet joint compound, casting rock faces using rock molds, using broken ceiling tiles, etc etc. The more techniques you master, the more tools you will have in your arzenal (misspelling deliberate to avoidmindless auto-censors) to attack any given situation. If costs are an issue, concentrate on the less expensive methods at first, learn their strengths and limitations, then apply the technique that best fits a given situation when you need it.

3. In HO, code 100 track uses taller rails, larger ties, and larger tie spacing than code 83 or code 70 track. Most modellers think the code 83 track looks more realistic. I suspect that in N gauge, the code 80 track is more of a hobby grade, while code 50 is more like a museum grade model quality.

[tstage]

Actually, Tom, you're almost right. The codes are 0.0xx" - e.g. Code 80 would be .080, not .80". That would be over 3/4" tall...[:O]

Tom

[loathar]

PS-I would stick to plaster on newspaper to start. Rock molds can get $$$ and might be tricky for newer modeler.
Code 80 track has a rail that is .80" tall. Code 50 rail is .50" tall. Find out which one you have and stick with it. You don't need to be messing with different height track just yet.

[loathar]

Roadbed raises the track to a more realistic looking height like real train track. It also helps cut down on noise. (well worth spending a few extra $$ on.) Diarama is a good idea. I still practice new stuff on mine after being in the hobby for 35 years. I'd say stick with DC for now. MRC's are great. I've had a Tech II for 20 years. No problems. All the bells and whistles on the more expensive ones won't matter that much unless you have more expensive locos.
When you buy your scenery,you want to stick to smaller size stuff so it doesn't look too big on your N gauge.(fine to medium ballast,turff and earth).
Take your time and spend your $$$ wisely.It's easy to waste money on stuff you can't use.

[Anonymous]

I have 3 questions...
1.Probably a simple question but what is the purpose of roadbed. Why not paint the board or whatever you are laying the track on then lie the track directly on top of it??
2. Is it worth paying for the rock mold stuff or is is just easier and cheaper to use paper mache??
3.What is the difference between N scale track that is code 80 and 50 both made by Atlas??

[jeffers_mz]

Welcome, Finlay.

Here's a thread similar to your's with a lot of useful information in the answers provided:

http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=53175

Here is another thread which is sort of a bible for how-to's start to finish, a compilation of useful threads posted here in the past:

http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=36405

After you work through those, you will probably have more questions, probably some very specific ones. Make sure to ask them, because it has been my experience that the guys here can answer them, no matter how specialized. You've come to the right place for information!

:-)

[hminky]

I am chronicling the construction of this layout.



Click image to enlarge

at:

http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/4x8/

Thank you if you visit
Harold

[pcarrell]

Looks like you're getting some good help, so I won't rattle on too long. Just thought I'd pass along a couple of links to help you along.

There are some links to some great threads here on this web site on this page. Check some of these out;

http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=36405

And if you're going to do a diorama (good idea by the way) why not have a look at these lilipution layouts and that way your diorama can be used;

http://carendt.com/microplans/intro.html

And hey, keep us posted, OK?

[Anonymous]

Brenden good luck with your layout. As has been said we all started small and had to make some choices. I still have my first HO trains. I am running three roundie rounds on a 4x6. The fact that it is on the dinning room tabel is a credit to a good wife. Each circle has its on power pack, two tech II's and a cheaper power pack from one of my train sets. Remember its your railroad, your dreams and you will learn as you go. Welcome to the hobby and check out all the options as you go. DC vs DCC, horn hook vs kadee or some other. The cost will be different as will the results. Phil

[tstage]

Check around and see where you can find the cheapest price:

Discount Trains - http://www.discounttrainsonline.com/ho-scale-model-trains.html
Internet Hobbies - http://www.internethobbies.com
Standard Hobby Supply - http://www.standardhobby.com
Wholesaletrains.com - http://www.wholesaletrains.com
Trainworld.com - http://www.trainworld.com
eBay - http://toys.listings.ebay.com/Model-RR-Trains_HO-Scale_W0QQfromZR4QQfsooZ2QQfsopZ2QQsacatZ19128QQsocmdZListingItemList

The above would be some places to check with. If you do check out eBay, make sure that it's NEW.

Let me know what you end up getting...

Tom

P.S. FYI: Wholesaletrains.com is a massive warehouse that sells all kinds of stuff - not just trains. I bought my Bachman E-Z Command (DCC) system there for about 1/2 price. WARNING: Don't expect any great service or product knowledge base from places like this! They just move product - NOT necessarily know much about what they are selling.

[Anonymous]

Thankyou Tstage I will probably consider the Tech 4 200 or the Railpower 1370. Now to make up my mind[banghead]

[tstage]

Finlay,

There will always be something "nicer" to purchase. You just have to figure out what's the best you can afford right NOW and stick with that. (Finlay, sometimes you have to make tough discussions...[sigh]...EVEN when you're an adult. [:(] )

The Tech 4 200 and the Railpower 1370 should essentially do the same thing. The Railpower 1370 is older and not as "stylish" as the Teck 4 series, but that doesn't mean it isn't good.

All the Tech 4 series transformers are DC. The momentum and breaking have to do with mimicking the slow starting and stopping that a real train would expensive (inertia) trrying to pull or stop a load of cars. By clicking the button, the transformer will do that automatically for you. You can mimick the same thing just by slowly turning the dial up or down. It's a neat feature, but you have to figure if the price increase is worth it to you.

Choices...choices.

Tom

[Anonymous]

Tom now you got me thinking again about spending money(not always good). I was looking at the Railpower Series and then... I got greedy and started wandering off to the Tech 4 series. Are the Tech 4 series DC or DCC? I likeTech 4 260 because of all the realistic options on it. But between the 260 and 240 the pressure sensitive braking what is that? And is the momentum thing a big deal because then I may look at the Tech 4 200? Now if I get down to the Tech 4 200 is there a big difference between that and the
Railpower 1370. Remember I have a piece of junk one here. All it does is drive my train forward and backward.

[Anonymous]

Tom Thankyou for all the help I'm reading the DCC thing now. Thankyou

[tstage]

Finley,

Here's the one I had in mind for you:



More transformers can be found at:

http://www.modelrectifier.com/products/trainSound/index.asp

If you plan on buying one of the MRC transformers, you can pick one up cheaper from another online retailer or off eBay. (I found a new one for under $20) The (newer) Tech 4 series is a step up from there.

The choice between DC and DCC is personal preference. Some folks like the older DC technology because it's been around for a while and it works. They also like flipping switches and controllers to operate their layout. On the other hand, some have embraced DCC as the way to operate their trains. I personally like DCC because you can control each locomotive independently, apart from what other locomotives are doing on the same track. You can't do that with DC - at least not very easily and sometimes not at all.

With DC, your transformer changes the AC that comes out of your wall socket to DC. (Hence, why they call it a "transformer".) When you increase the voltage going through your track by rotating the knob on your transformer, you increase the speed to ALL locomotives in that section or block of track that the transformer controls.

With DCC, the track is powered with AC ALL the time. A controller (called a command station) sends signals to a board (called a decoder) that is attached to your locomotive's motor. The decoder is "addressed" so that the command station can specifically communicate commands to that particular locomotive, apart from all other locomotives that may be on the layout or same track. That means you can control two different locomotives to do two different things, going in two different directions at two different speeds. Does that make sense?

Simply put, with DC you control your track, while with DCC you control your trains.

Finlay, if you want to read up more on DCC, there's a good link on Tony's Train Exchange web site called 2. DCC For Beginners that is well written and easy to understand. Here's the link:

http://www.tonystrains.com

The link is right smack in the middle of the page. You can either read it online or download it as a .pdf file.

As far as DCC being a big deal. It depends. If you have a new or newer locomotive (2001 to present), the manufacturers nowadays have made most of their products "DCC-friendly" - meaning that they are wired with a harness or plug so that they can be easily converted over from DC to DCC by just installing a decoder in them. You can also buy locomotives with the decoder already installed. Some are inexpensive; some are more expensive. Also, in most cases, the wiring for a DCC system is less complicated.

Anyway, Finlay, I'd encourage you to read the DCC For Beginners so that you can better understand of what DCC can and can not do. They do make inexpensive DCC systems and things continue to get cheaper.

In the meantime, just enjoy the goodies that you just bought, save your money, read up on all the MRRing stuff that you can so you can make informed choices on future purchase, and plan that layout of yours and how you want it to operate.

Tom