Broadway Limited Light Mike questions...

[tstage]

Dave,

Thanks for reporting back in. Glad to hear you like it. [tup]

Tom

[Anonymous]

Well, do you like it? I sure like mine.

[Anonymous]

Here she is.... as you can tell, I'm no photographer.

I converted her to Southern using Woodland Scenics transfers - and I chose to start off with the Wabash so as to minimize repainting. She's operated by two WS engineer figures, too.

I also replaced the drawbar 'pin' with a long screw to minimize stress on the wiring harness plug.

The only weathering I've done is in the cab - rubbing the deck and cab floor with a touch of graphite to simulate a high-traffic area.

I love that loco!!!!!!! [8D]

[tstage]

Dave,

ScubaTerry bought a BLI SW7 recently and just raves about the sound and operation. (He even has a video clip of running it on his layout.) The only "complaint" that I've heard is that the rails are a bit thicker than the prototype. If you want more modern, the Alco RSD-15s just came out recently, too.

Tom

[tstage]

QUOTE: Originally posted by USSCassiopeia

I've started really wanting one of their diesels now, too! Can't wait to hear it. I wi***here was a way to put BLI sounds in my Atlas RS-1....

Dave,

Boy! Sounds like you've really made some progress on your Mike in jsut a short time.

On the topic of putting sound in your Atlas RS-1. You might try contacting Litchfield Station (http://www.litchfieldstation.com) and ask Bruce if it can be done and what and how he would suggest doing it. Bruce does retrofits and does good work.

Empire Northern Models (http://www.empirenorthernmodels.com) is also a good place to check. Tim's installing a sound decoder, baffle, and speaker for me in an FT A-B diesel I'm getting. He's good to also bounce ideas off of and does VERY good work.

Tom

*Update*
Dave, I just got off the Litchfield Station site. Bruce has done an RS-1 and has he has posted pictures, description of the work done, and a list of the parts needed, if you should desire to do the work yourself. It's a little work to find the page so here's a quick map:

Click...
Installations
Examples
HO Scale
Diesel sound
Atlas RS-1

Hope that's a help...

[Anonymous]

I've started really wanting one of their diesels now, too! Can't wait to hear it. I wi***here was a way to put BLI sounds in my Atlas RS-1....

I messed around some more with my Mike last night.... I disassembled the valve gear, degreased it, and baked on some semi-flat black.

I painted the front and rear wheels too, but I didn't bake 'em because I want the paint to 'wear' right...

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the info about the leaving turnouts open! I was getting frustrated because when I'd first run it, Id usually derail near a switch and would have to rerail the locomotive. I have yet to add ground throws, so now everytime before I run my Heavy Milwaukee Road Mikado I inspect all the switches to make sure they are open all the way in the proper direction.

When a Mikado takes out an E unit and a bilivel car its not a pretty site :) . USSCassiopeia, take it from someone who has two disel units, and now a Mikado, these are EXCELLENT locomotives. Just dont sound 2 disel horns with a steam sound near a station!

DON

[Anonymous]

I did what you guys have suggested, and it works fine. Thanks!

I've also done as many 'improvements' to the loco as I could think of...

1. Added windows. Microscope slide coverslips make GREAT windows!

2. From the inside, I drilled out the holes in the firebox doors, in a conical fashion. I also added a piece of frosted scotch tape inside and bent the 'fire' LED back a bit. This makes the fire a bit brighter and more visible.

3. I found a screw threaded the same as the towbar rod. Now, I don't have to worry about messing up the wiring-harness plug by plugging and unplugging it over and over again, or messing up the way I have the wires fixed to take up the slack.

I am still blown away by this loco!!!! I want one of their diesels now!

[selector]

Depending on how the connector attaches, you could twist it to make it tighter, as long as it will give enough to accommodate turning without putting too much strain on the area where the wires enter the plug. For example, my P2K heritage 0-6-0 switcher uses ONLY the wires to act as the tow bar, and its plug presses horizontally into the loco under the cab. Both my BLI Niagara and K4s have the connection running from under the cab and rising to fit into the tender foward of the front truck. For those two, I just twisted the connection until it was more tidy, making sure its torsion and tautness didn't interfere with desired motion. Otherwise, the press-fit tow bar seems to work fine.

[Anonymous]

Hey Tom!

Thanks for the reply - I'll try that this evening.

From everything I've seen, the Green scheme was primarily for passenger service, and engine black with graphited smoke- and fire-boxes were for the 'freight dogs'...

And yessir, the price was nice :-)

[tstage]

Dave,

Terrific! I'm glad to hear that you are enjoying your BLI Mike.

1. I hear what you are saying about the wires. Seems like BLI put a lot a slack in the connection. I just ended up "essing" mine underneath the cab apron.

2. You can try gently using a gray pencil eraser. (Like the kind you find on a mechanical pencil?) But, wouldn't a Southern 2-8-2 be painted in Southern "green"? I don't know for sure but I thought the BLI Southern Mike was painted green. Just a thought.

Anyhow, hope you found your Wabash at a good price...

Tom

[Anonymous]

I got that thing in yesterday, and I love it!

It's a beautiful piece of work and the sounds just 'make it', in my opinion.

Plus, after studying the manual, I found out that one can operate the bell, whistle, and do some programming by using a standard power pack.

I'm amazed at all the little extras that BLI gives too!

I do have another question or two, though ..

1. What's the best way to deal with the 'slack' in the wire harness between tender and loco?

2. I like the Wabash, but I'd really love to make her 'Southern'...is there a way to remove the stock lettering without messing up the paint job?

Thank you all for your patience in dealing with a newbie like me :-)

Dave

[tstage]

QUOTE: Originally posted by USSCassiopeia

Hey!

I have one coming to me, and I'd just like to ask a couple questions...

USSC,

First off, [#welcome] to the forum! Good to have you aboard! [:)] Are you a serviceman? I'll do my best to answer your questions.

QUOTE:
Do any of the sounds work with a straight DC setup?

From p.8 of the BLI Operators's Manual, the answer appears to be "yes". And it looks like you can even program in DC, although not quite as conveniently as you would in DCC. You may want to think about purchasing a DCC system at some point.

QUOTE:
If so, is there an off/on capability?

You can manually turn the volume down. The knob is located in the tender, underneath the water latch. Just pop it off with your fingers and rotate it with either a standard screwdriver or the adjustment tool that comes with the box. Should be righty/tighty (louder) - lefty/loosey (softer)

QUOTE:
What's the minimum radius turn that it can take?

I have mostly 22" radius curves on my track, with a 3-piece section of 18" radiius. My BLI Mike has had no problems negotiating these. If you forget and leave a turnout open and run the Mike through it, the front or leading trucks will pop off the track.

QUOTE:
What kind of break-in procedure do you recommend?

You will need to oil the side linkage and piston rods with some Labelle 106(?), then run it for a couple of hours. (Mine had a slight squeak to it and this took care of the issue.) Try also running it a various speeds and directions.

QUOTE:
Many thanks, fellas... I'm pretty much a newbie, and I appreciate any kind of knowledge you can share!

USSC, I think you'll be VERY pleased with the BLI Light Mike. The detailing is very nice and the BLI MIke really has some pulling power. (A lot more than my Athearn Mike.) Let us know what you think of it when you have a chance. Hope this has been a help...

Tom

[Anonymous]

I have two of these great locos. Most of my layout is 28" min radius, but I have one spur that is 18" or slightly less. They negotiate this section with no problems in both directions.

As for break-in....both of my units had no hitch in their get-alongs right out of the box. I was able to get a constant creaping speed immediately. No motor noise.

One suggestion - swap out the rubber tired driver wheel. I got much better pickup after they were removed and I can still hawl a 10 car, NMRA weighted consist up a 2.5% grade. BTW - they look great double-headed.

[simon1966]

In answer to the sound question there are a couple of modules you can get to activate QSI equipped locos sound on DC
http://www.broadway-limited.com/products/sidekick.htm
http://www.atlasrr.com/DCC/quantumengineer.htm

Check them out, they may be of interest to you.

[scubaterry]

I just got my BLI L Mike. I use DCC so I can't give you lots of details on DC ops but I believe most sounds operate on DC. I can check the manual on it later today. As far as min rad - My steam yard lead is about 20 in rad and it looks odd going around it but it takes it. The rest of my layout is 22 in rad and it has no problems. Ad far as break in I just run the heck out of them for a couple of hours. Varying the speed and direction. Maybe someone with more knowledge can help there. I think you will be very happy with your new Loco.
Terry[8D]

[Anonymous]

Hey!

I have one coming to me, and I'd just like to ask a couple questions...

Do any of the sounds work with a straight DC setup?

If so, is there an off/on capability?

What's the minimum radius turn that it can take?

What kind of break-in procedure do you recommend?

Many thanks, fellas... I'm pretty much a newbie, and I appreciate any kind of knowledge you can share!