50’ Track Using Only Atlas Flex Track? - Possible?

[Anonymous]

Flex track is the way to go for sure. All of the great layouts are made with flex track. It is much better than the sectional stuff. Just be sure to put the "slidy" rail on the inside of the curve.

[jecorbett]

A lot of fine model railroads have been built with just flex track and commercial turnouts. In fact, I imagine a majority of serious modelers use any sectional track at all. All of the above advice is good. I would add one more piece of advice. Most flex track I have worked with has one rail fixed to the ties and the other rail will slide easily through the ties. When making your curves, I have always found I get smoother curves and joints if the sliding rail is on the inside. This will be the rail you end up cutting to match the length of the outter rail.

[IRONROOSTER]

One thing to be aware of with flex track is that when you bend it around curves the ends will no longer be even and you'll need to trim the inner rail - use the rail nippers above. It is also advisable to solder two sections together with rail joiners while they are straight and then form the curves. After the curves are are in place connect them with straight sections. This will help avoid kinks in the curves which lead to derailments. Good luck.
Enjoy
Paul

[Anonymous]

Every piece of Flex track that you curve will need to have one rail cut, because the inside rail will be longer than the outside one.
LeRoy

[selector]

All sensible advice.

There are two important points to keep in mind. They both involve electricity and the properties of metal...specifically the ones you will be using.

As previously covered, every joined section of rail is a potential problem for continuity, unless you solder them, OR, unless you solder midway down the lenght of the rail sections and rely only for alignment on the metal joiners.

As importantly, the metal joiners that are free to slide by not being soldered will allow for changes in rail length when the room heats and cools during the days and seasons. They will also permit the changes in the structures below the track due to humidity and temperature changes. Temperature can be a problem, but with materials that are susceptible to moisture, it is humidity that give us the most problems.

[soumodeler]

No problem, buy a pair of rail nippers ($20) and cut the end that you want using the square side. File off any metal brush, and slip the rail joiners over the end. Should be no problem.

[Anonymous]

Thanks everyone, this really helps! I am, essentially, making one big circle.

One final question on this subject: Can I cut the last piece of Flextrack? I'm sure that the very last piece will need to be trimmed down to fit. Is this possible?

[Adelie]

First, an awful lot of fine layouts have been built with Atlas flex track. Some brands may look better, but there is no problem with Atlas. I'm in N-scale and about all I use is Micro Engineering pre-weathered stuff for where the track is visible and Atlas for the rest. My only complaint with Atlas has been that, in N-scale, the lengths of track are 29" as opposed to 36". That is a puzzler you won't have since in HO Atlas is indeed 36".

You can also solder the power feeds to the track to eliminate the need for a terminal track, or use rail joiners with the wires pre-soldered to them (or create your own).

50' is not a problem by itself. However, that translates to about 17 pieces of flex track, and 34 rail joiners to connect it all together. Rail joints are notorious for causing electrical issues over time. The joiners become loose, dirt works its was in, etc.

My suggestion would be to either solder the power feeds to the rails or use the rail joiners with wires soldered to them to create about 4-6 places where the track can get power. You can also solder the joints to create an even better connection. If you are essentially making a big 50' long circle, you can run a power bus beneath the wood strips and just tap into it to get power to the track.

I would not expect any problems with a typical power pack running that length of track. In the grand scheme, 50' is not that long and the amount of power loss is minimal as long as the joints are solid. The number of locomotives being run at any one time is the deciding factor of needing more power.

So, what you are proposing is not only possible, but not all that unusual.

Added: Gentlemen, it sounds like we all had the same idea!

[MisterBeasley]

Flex track by itself should be fine. You should look around and find information on a "Track Power Bus" to wire the track. Essentially, the idea is to run a pair of heavy-gauge wire (like #12, standard indoor cable used inside the walls) and then take a pair of "feeder" wires to the tracks every few feet. Most people would recommend a feeder about every 3 feet, which is 1 section of flex track. You can get rail joiners with the feeder wires attached and use those, but they are really overpriced. I take regular rail joiners and solder wires to them. Some people solder their feeders directly to the rails. It's a matter of personal choice.

With this kind of power bus / feeder arrangement, a standard power pack should be sufficient.

You might want to consider a small lip around the edge of the boards to keep the trains from falling to the floor if they derail. And yes, they will derail.

[soumodeler]

Yes, you can run this much track off a standard transformer, but you my have some problems as you get further around the layout from the power supply. Use a 12 or 14 AWG bus around the entire layout and connect 26 AWG or so feeders to the track every few feet. This will improve the run around the layout.

[Anonymous]

I’m planning to run a HO scale track around the perimeter of my son’s room. Initial measurements show that I’ll need about 50 feet of track.

Is it feasible to use only Atlas Flex track, plus the one piece of track that the transformer connects to? I’m new to model railroading and am unsure if there are any downsides to Atlas flex track. ... but I like the flexability.

(All track will be mounted to wood strips mounted to the walls with “L” brackets)

Also, for a track this long, would I need a more powerful than normal transformer/power supply?
(Only one train will run on this track)

Thanks so much for your help!