Come on you guys, give the newbie a break, that was his third post.
Clint
Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
The unit I have from my grandfather did not have the forward truck to make it a 2-8-0. And every one I've purchased off of e-bay for repair parts did NOT have the forward truck. But I did find this from the catalog in 1963:
http://www.hoseeker.net/ahminformation/ahmcatalog1963page01.jpg
It's the 280 unit in the lower right. Showing the forward trucks. There is an empty screw hole on the bottom of the engine that looks like it would accomodate the forward truck(excuse me if my terms are completely off).
So, wondering if a) adding a forward truck would make the engine run better and b) if so, where would one go to get said truck to attach it to the engine.
Thanks for all the great input.
235301OK, gotcha, must be the older model, confused on my terms. OK, pictures:
That's not actually an 0-8-0. It's an Americanized version of the FS (Ferrovia dello Stato - Italian State Railways) class 740 2-8-0 that Rivarossi sold for some time in the late 50's and perhaps a bit longer.
If you get a chance, watch "Von Ryan's Express". IIRC, the engine involved was a 740 class 2-8-0. IIRC, the German train chasing "Von" Ryan's escape train was of the 743 class with a Franco-Crosti boiler.
Here's a pic of a later Rivarossi model of the 743: http://www.kernowmodelrailcentre.com/product/30015/HR2195_Rivarossi_280_Steam_locomotive_Gr743301
Andre
I am not sure why you cannot lockdown those siderod screws, but hit the hardware stores and look for the mini-wrench sets, look for metric as these are european built. The screws and nuts are metal they aughta tighten in fine. The drivers are however plastic and your bound to snap them overtightening and trying to loosen if you tightlocked them. Just lube your siderods up, check for interference/binding, you should be okay. If the screws just won't stay, start with walthers goo, if it still won't stay, go a little stickier cement, if still try the tightlock. But try none at all first just tightening them down snug enough.
Giving the enge the overall lubing may help some torquing, weighting the tender should help.
Now here is an old thread that I did NOT expect to see revived! But it is good to hear from you and about the progress with the locomotive.
The problem with tender drive that you mention is simply endemic to tender drive. As my old post mentioned the only saving grace is to make the tender heavy -- as with the Mantua General 4-4-0.
Rivarossi offered a special tiny little wrench to tighten the hex bolts for side rods and valve gear. My general experience is that once loosened they never get quite as tight again. Indeed that is also my experience with HO brass locomotives. I would go with Thread locker. What harm could it do so long as you take care not to gum up the entire works.
The HOSeeker pages for the AHM 0-8-0 all date from when the motor was moved to the cab but the drawings for the valve gear and side rods might be of some slight help
http://www.hoseeker.net/AHMRivarossiassembly/ahm080switcherpg1.jpg
Dave Nelson
The smell is normal for Rivarossi motors. I think it is ozone from the brushes sparking. You have to choose the correct threadlocker or you may have a problem getting them apart again. I have used a very small amount of rubber cement on the threads with a toothpick. Even a small amount of model (testors) paint sometimes works.
Bob
Well it only took me five years(I am the original poster, 235301, just a new name on the forums) but the Rivarossi 1515 is back up and running. I had to cobble it together with parts from 2 other units purchased off of e-bay(it's now a frankenlocomotive but at least 2/3 is original). It's satisfying to get this 50 yr old engine back up and running and looking pretty good. Runs OK on code 100 track. But boy what a dumb design. The tender is always trying to torque itself off the track, trying to rotate around the engine(the motor and drive shaft is in the tender). Question: for the rods/valves attached to the wheels on the engine; I can't get them tightened down enough so that they don't loosen themselves while the engine is running(with disastrous results when they come completely loose). Is using threadlocker common for the screws into the wheels? There are belleville washers on some of the wheels between the rod and the wheel as well as brass sleeves/bearings. So either I've assembled this wrong or threadlocker is the answer. I have no idea what I am doing and this is all being done by feel. Which means I've had to do everything over and over at least 10 times before it looks right.
Also, the motor when running has that typical old motor smell(not burning, the motor is running very cool even at high speeds). Just has that funky smell that isn't pleasant. Any idea what causes this and can it be remedied? Is it the brushes?
TIA!
QUOTE: Originally posted by 235301 Yes, it's the plate on the bottom that's missing. I see a later vintage yard goat on e-bay that looks to have a similar if not identical bottom plate. If I can get it cheap enough I may just pop for that unit rather than attempt to fabricate my own plate. The connectors are there although they'll need new wires and soldering. The cow catcher has one side broken off otherwise it's in flawless cosmetic shape. That's why I assumed it was the 69-74 vintage, the plastic work on it looks so clean and I assumed they didn't do plastic work like this back in early 60. I am not sure how the tender cover comes off on this one. I don't see any mounting screws on the bottom side of the unit.
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QUOTE: Originally posted by ICRR1964 WOW! It looks to be in really good shape, Really nice pictures! The one I have like this is in bad shape and a shelf warmer. The last one I seen like yours was last fall at a train show in the original box and looked as good as yours. If you do take the tender apart, be very careful, the tender chassis is made out of diecast and is old, it might crumble or break in half. As good as shape as yours is in it might need a good cleaning and some lube is all. Is the bottom plate on the bottom of the loco missing, or did you just take it off for inspection? ICRR1964
QUOTE: Originally posted by 235301 QUOTE: Originally posted by ICRR1964 235301, I was going to try and get you answer to you this morning but had to leave for the day, but I have an answer for you on the age of your 0-8-0, it was actually made in the late 1950's. This loco was made by Rivarossi for about 4 years, like 1958-1962 or so. They did not run really good either, I purchased one back in the 80's and tried like you to get new parts for it, bad news, there are none. Rivarossi made three veriations of the 0-8-0 yard got so to speak. The first is the one you have that was made from 1958-1962. You see one of these pop up on ebay, but not often, The tender chassis has a bad habbit of crumbling, the diecast would just crack and fall appart. They also made a 0-4-0 that had the same problem, but it was the steam chest that would start to crumble. I am not sure but some of the early Rivarossi diecast was really lead casting, not sure though. The loco you have was the first 0-8-0 produced and was nothing like the later ones that were made, in looks and running . The second design was a totally different and had the motor in the firebox with a attatched gear box to the front of the motor, which in turn went through a drive shaft to a worm gear, then to the drive gear on the wheels. This design worked well and ran really nice, even had good slow speed response, but the motor was a large left over sized motor from the older loco's like yours, they were a square looking type, 3 pole motors. It was made from 1969-1974 AHM/Rivarossi. The third is with the motor in the boiler with the shft pointing straight down with a worm gear attached and driving the main drive gear on the wheels. This had the round 3 pole motor, but still had problems with week motors. This loco had the same look as the 2nd one, it was made from 1974-1977AHM/Rivarossi. As stated as by other members it has very large flanges on the wheels, larger than normal. You can cut them down on a lathe or sanding, lathe works better though. As far as remotoring, you can get a motor and drive shaft set from NWSL and put a whole new system in it, use the old gearing though. It is going to be a expensive undertaking and allot of work. I know it has allot of value to you being your grandfsthers, but you have to make the call. Like I said you see one pop up on ebay from time to time, thats the easiest way to find parts. If it was my grandfathers, I would clean it up really nice and put it on display where I would see it every day so it reminded me of grandfather. Thats me though, hope I helped you with your question. Rivarissi does make a forth generation loco, that is the current design, it is an really nice loco that is detailed and runs perfect. Wow, informative post. I believe I have the 69-74 version, it's a plastic body with the motor in the tender, driving a worm gear in the locomotive. Makes sense on the dates, he passed away in 70 so this was likely one of his last purchases. Great information, thanks.
QUOTE: Originally posted by ICRR1964 235301, I was going to try and get you answer to you this morning but had to leave for the day, but I have an answer for you on the age of your 0-8-0, it was actually made in the late 1950's. This loco was made by Rivarossi for about 4 years, like 1958-1962 or so. They did not run really good either, I purchased one back in the 80's and tried like you to get new parts for it, bad news, there are none. Rivarossi made three veriations of the 0-8-0 yard got so to speak. The first is the one you have that was made from 1958-1962. You see one of these pop up on ebay, but not often, The tender chassis has a bad habbit of crumbling, the diecast would just crack and fall appart. They also made a 0-4-0 that had the same problem, but it was the steam chest that would start to crumble. I am not sure but some of the early Rivarossi diecast was really lead casting, not sure though. The loco you have was the first 0-8-0 produced and was nothing like the later ones that were made, in looks and running . The second design was a totally different and had the motor in the firebox with a attatched gear box to the front of the motor, which in turn went through a drive shaft to a worm gear, then to the drive gear on the wheels. This design worked well and ran really nice, even had good slow speed response, but the motor was a large left over sized motor from the older loco's like yours, they were a square looking type, 3 pole motors. It was made from 1969-1974 AHM/Rivarossi. The third is with the motor in the boiler with the shft pointing straight down with a worm gear attached and driving the main drive gear on the wheels. This had the round 3 pole motor, but still had problems with week motors. This loco had the same look as the 2nd one, it was made from 1974-1977AHM/Rivarossi. As stated as by other members it has very large flanges on the wheels, larger than normal. You can cut them down on a lathe or sanding, lathe works better though. As far as remotoring, you can get a motor and drive shaft set from NWSL and put a whole new system in it, use the old gearing though. It is going to be a expensive undertaking and allot of work. I know it has allot of value to you being your grandfsthers, but you have to make the call. Like I said you see one pop up on ebay from time to time, thats the easiest way to find parts. If it was my grandfathers, I would clean it up really nice and put it on display where I would see it every day so it reminded me of grandfather. Thats me though, hope I helped you with your question. Rivarissi does make a forth generation loco, that is the current design, it is an really nice loco that is detailed and runs perfect.
QUOTE: Originally posted by MisterBeasley You could probably make that cover plate out of styrene rather than metal. It's cheaper and easier to fabricate, and it's also an insulator in case you derail - the styrene won't short across your tracks.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
QUOTE: Originally posted by 235301 Or is it typical for that gear simply to be exposed through the plate via a hole in the plate?
QUOTE: Originally posted by 235301 I could post a picture, what's the standard way of doing it on this forum?