Glueing Down Ballast

[dknelson]

Very realistic -- and exceptional close photography to show it too. N.B.: It is O scale
Dave Nelson

[Anonymous]

Take a look at this ballast. Some of the most realistic I have ever seen.

http://www.brennansmodelrr.com/

Scott

[Anonymous]

Since scale ballast is made up of plastic, then it takes a form of glue that will not melt the plastic ballast. Another problem is the ballast clinging to the side of the rails, gumming up the works. I ahve tryied non-magmetic snads and gravel to scale size. The gluing process was a time a labor job, it was the learning process of experiementation. I took 3'of HO flex-trac and put it on a board. There I expereimented with glues, blaasts and frustation. I still haven't come up with a sure fire way to get it laid down to look like the mainline near my home. Never say die, when I get tthis down to an art, will post my findings here. Happy Ballasting!

[douginut]

I dont know where he actually got the shingle. I had truly expected him to mention it here himself.
He too would have done this if he had thought of it.
his modelling skills and generosity with his very valuable time are very well known around the Salt Lake area.

Doug, in Utah

[Anonymous]

I have an O-Guage layout. When I have ballasted slants I apply straight glue first and then put the ballast onto that. The glue helps hold the ballast on. Then you an go back and touch up any areas that need it.

Scott

[Anonymous]

This sounds like an idea that is worth investigating!!
Please keep me posted if you have any better success.

Scott Sartrys

[Anonymous]

Well., I realize that applying glue is a bit of a "no brainer" as I have done quite a bit of it. I don't see much difference between a water/glue mix and acrylic paint gumming up an air brush as long as you clean it after. Water/glue mix should be a heck of a lot easier to clean out of an airbru***han paint. I have an older airbrush laying around and will let you know how the results are. I think that I will get much better control, and much less overspray this way. Doesn't seem like anyone has ever tried this method so cant hurt to take a prod at it.

Scott Sartrsy
Bristol, RI

[Anonymous]

Well now Doug, that's what I call "True prototype" modeling! I guess I wasn't so crazy after all with my cinders. Now, for the $100.000 question, "Did the fellow get the shingle from the actual structure to be modeled?" Don't call the looney bin, but that's what I'd have done. Years ago, I made a diorama of a site in northern Michigan, and actually used dirt from the area for the scenery. See, the color was so different than anything else I could find, I had no other choice.
Todd C.

[douginut]

When you discuss cutting down an actual tie (sleeper) to make scale sleepers I am reminded of a local modeller that made a perfect scale railroad station for his home Colorado Narrow Guage layout and his Ntrack module. it was/is incredible for he had taken a red cedar shingle and split out over 1700 N-Scale shingles and individually applied them. The effect was stunningly beautiful.

If he reads this he might just drag home a tie and well...

Doug, In Utah

[Anonymous]

There is absolutely nothing about cat litter that will "attract" the cat to your mainline. Cats become accustomed to using the litter box as a ritual. They don't "home-in" on the litter itself, and automatically relieve themselves. All cat litter is, is vitrified clay that has been crushed, sized, and screened. The same thing you get when you buy "scale ballast" just without the hefty price. If you want say, "cinder" ballast, you will have to look elsewhere though. Cat litter only works for simulating modern "limestone" ballast. Years ago, I gathered up a few bagfuls of cinders from my favorite branch-line, and tediously hammered and screened out enough for a diaorama, but this wouldn't be practical for an entire layout. Although I will say, it gave an extra element of authenticity to the track. Actual materials from the site modeled. I suppose if I wanted to get really carried away, I could have taken carvings from the ties, and cut them to scale size. But, if I had done all that, I suppose they would have called the men in white coats to take me away...
Todd C.

[Anonymous]

Dave, I do restrict my cats from the basement. I have two of these great creatures, and yes, one of them IS very adept at opening doors, but even if he did get to the layout, I doubt he would take a dump on glued-down ballast. They always have to dig a hole first, and then cover it up, you see. Very clean pets. I'd like to see a dog with that much "protocol".
Todd C.

[BR60103]

I find that anything with a spray tends to blow scenery material around unless it's well soaked.
Any tips on applying ballast to the slanting shoulders of the roadbed?
--David

[Anonymous]

Lots of good ideas here. I have been through most of them in doing the ballast for the D&J Railroad. Most of the 7 - 8 scale miles of track on the D&J Railroad was ballasted with the following proceedure.

I poured the ballast into the track area then shaped it with an old tooth brush.

I applied water with a few drops of dish soap (wet water) from a squeez handle Windex glass cleaner bottle.

I use an old catsup squeez bottle with the long pointy narrow nozzle for control of the flow and getting the 50/50 glue water mix right where I want it. Soak the ballast down real good so it gets to the cork, homasote or whatever is under the track.

I let it dry for a few days then touched up where the ballast washed away a bit.

Ken, D&J Railroad, Stafford, VA

[Anonymous]

Take a look at what a little cat urine can do to your trains and I think you will forget about using anything that might attract them to your layout
http://home.freeuk.net/nmrabr/p87/disaster.htm
Talk about distruction.
Bee Line

[dknelson]

"just kidding" about keeping the cats out? If you have cats and they use tidy cat then I would advise against using "their" litter for ballast -- when they feel like it, cats can be remarkably poor at grasping concepts. Unless of course you really can keep them out of the train room. Cats have secret thumbs and can open any door.
Dave Nelson

[Anonymous]

By the way, want a "Low-Buck" alternative to regular HO scale ballast? Try "Tidy-Cat" Scoop away cat litter. It has the right color and size for HO scale ballast,and about 7 bucks gets you around 10 pounds or so. Enough to ballast one real big layout. Just apply and glue as you would the "store bought" ballast. It might be a good idea to keep the cats out of the train room though! (just kidding!) Use that 50/50 glue mix, and you'll be all set. (Don't forget to spray a detergent solution first). ( a drop of dish soap in a quart of water). This will make the glue flow through the ballast.
Todd C.

[Anonymous]

AMEN!

[Seamonster]

Use an old glue bottle. I took a half-empty bottle of white carpenter's glue and filled it with water, added a few drops of dish detergent and labelled it as containing a 50/50 glue mixture. When it gets empty, I fill it half full of white glue again, add water and dish detergent and go to it. Depending on how hard I squeeze the bottle, it can dispense a trickle or a stream. It's easy. It's a no-brainer.
.....Bob

[dknelson]

Keeping the glue out of switchpoints and off the tops of rails is another problem with using an airbrush.
One method I have read about, and tried once with mixed results -- but I have not given up yet! -- is to mix powered glue in with the ballast and then just wet the entire thing with a spray bottle. Where it worked it worked OK but obviously I need to do more study about the relative mix of powered glue and the ballast.

Dave Nelson

[Anonymous]

Forget the eye dropper, use a turkey baster holds a lot , about $1.00 each and you have good control of what your doing without half the mess of a spray bottle.
Bee Line

[Anonymous]

Well, the "eye dropper" is certainly a time consuming task. What I have always done is use the glue bottle itself, an eye dropper might hold all of 1/200th of an ounce, while the average glue bottle is about 4-6 oz. Come on guys, this is a no brainer.
Todd C.

[CNJ831]

Using an airbru***o apply thinned-down glue to ballast is a poor idea from the start. First, you are faced with the possibliity of gumming up the airbrush permanently from any residual glue left after final cleaning. Secondly, it is very unlikely that an airbush will deposit sufficient glue to the ballast to fully penetrate and form a permanent bond. You'll probably end up just gluing down the very top layer of ballast. Stick with the spray bottle and eyedropper method.

John

[Anonymous]

How would you keep airbrush from getting clogged,water down elmer's glue and use a spray bottle,that what we doo all the time,you are going to cover the glue anyway,use a paint bru***o wipe away extra rock/ballast.......HUB

[Anonymous]

Has anyone had any experience with using an airbru***o apply glue to ballast?
I have found spray bottles to be fairly messy and eye droppers to be time consuming

psivory
Scott Sartrys