soldering wire

[Anonymous]

Joe/Andy,

I like to use a small amount of flux even when usin rosin-core solder. It seems to help the solder flow a bit better, especially at lower wattage settings.

When soldering, you can tell by the brightness of the solder if you have a good joint. If the solder is bright and shiny when finished you can be sure you have a good joint. If very dull you didn't get the solder hot enough and it may work loose. I realize there may be times when lower heat is a must, but to be sure to get a good joint use the higher wattage when possible.

[snowey]

thanx again, Andy! I know you're an "expert" at this!

[BR60103]

Joe: by "controller" do you mean the switch machine?
You need to wire all four lugs; there are two for each end; you have to wire two of them to the common return.
I've always tried to fill the lug with wire, which meant folding it back on itself.
The last application I made, I just put the wire in (16 gauge stranded) and squashed it with pliers. It seems solid.
--David

[Sperandeo]

Hi Joe,

You shouldn't need any addittional flux for most electrical wiring if you use rosin-core solder.

Good luck,

Andy

Andy Sperandeo
MODEL RAILROADER Magazine

[snowey]

thanx Andy! I have a copy of your book "EASY MODEL RAILROAD WIRING" & I looked in there, but I couldn't find anything about the wire "doubling back" on itself, so I assumed it was allright, but I just wanted to be sure.

Now, one more question: do I have to use flux?



Exxelent book, by the way! (I have both editions)

[snowey]

thanx, but I already know to use 60-40 rosin core ssolder. One other question, though. Is it nessary to use flux?

[Seamonster]

I agree with Andy that a good solder connection starts with a good mechanical connection. Bend the bare end of the wire into a J, hook it through the hole in the lug, and squeeze it tight with pliers, then solder it. If you are using stranded wire, twist the strands tightly together first. You may want to lightly tin the strands to "glue" them together.

I'll emphasize what Andy said, it is the wire and lug that should be hot enough to melt the solder, not the iron. The iron heats the connection, the connection melts the solder. This applies for all soldering work.

I must disagree with Andy's choice of soldering iron, however. I use a 40 watt iron, "throttled back" with my Dremel speed controller set to about 2/3 rotation. (I have an old Dremel tool with a separate speed control.) I've found a 40 watt iron plenty hot enough for any electrical soldering job I've done. I also model in N scale and it's plenty hot enough to solder feeders onto track and to solder track sections together.

One last tip: use *only* 60/40 rosin core electronic solder, and never use any kind of soldering paste for electrical soldering.

.....Bob

[Sperandeo]

Hello Joe,

It's good practice to thread the wire through (or around) the lug and and bend it back on itself tightly. It's easier to make a good solder joint if you start with a solid mechanical connection.

To tin the wire, hold the tip of your soldering gun or iron it against the bare wire and heat until the wire – not the soldering tip – melts solder fed onto it from the opposite side. You want just a thin coating of solder – that's the "tin" – on the wire.

For normal control wiring I use a 100-watt soldering gun, although a 75-watt iron is probably sufficient.

Good luck,

Andy

Andy Sperandeo
MODEL RAILROADER Magazine

[snowey]

when you hook a wire onto the soldering lug on a PECO switch controller, does it matter if the wire "doubles back" onto itself? Also, how do you tin the wire? What wattage does everyone reccomend? I'm in N scale. Also, is it nessecary to solder a wire on all 4 lugs?