Marklin ac conversion to dc

[Anonymous]

Clarification to my last post. When I was speaking of wheel width, I should have said the wheelset guage on Marklin is slightly smaller (the wheels are slightly closer together on the Marklin wheel sets than the NMRA sets) The wheel width (flange) is actually larger (this creates another problem that must be solved).

Guy Cantwell

[Anonymous]

I have spent considerable time on this issue and as a person who has a large layout currently running Marklin locomotives with American freight cars, I have a few observations. I gave up on converting locos. The idea to run Marklin on one main and Two rail DC on the other is possible if they are to be separate systems. If you want to run rolling stock between the two systems there are several big drawbacks that you should consider carefully before embarking on the project. The biggest is the fact that Marklin uses the NEM (European) standard for wheel width. This standard is slightly smaller than the NMRA standard (check it with the respective wheel sets). This means that none of the USA cars will run through Marklin switches (narrower points) to the diverging track without modification (there are some cheats here). This includes trying to run NMRA standard locos on Marklin track as well. If you want to run the Marklin rolling stock on DC track, the Marklin flanges will bottom out on track that is not at least code 100 (limiting you to large rail in the DC section) and all wheel sets will have to be changed to insulated sets to work on DC track (not an inexpensive prospect). I have spent many hours modifying my layout to run NMRA standard gear on Marklin track. It is a lot of work and things don't run perfectly. After 4 years I eventually decided to build a new layout and use two rail DC with no Marklin equipment. I have a few tricks you might be interested in and I would be happy to dicuss my experiences with you via e-mail...Guy Cantwell at [e-mail]

[Anonymous]

Sorry, I forgot to mention my previous was for Martin Stierlin.

[Anonymous]

I am very interested in this. I tried the e-address you left but, could not make contact. Please try me at; [e-mail]
I really want to know more and I will hold up laying more track until I hear from you. Thanks.
Pop

[Anonymous]

If you are going to tear out the second track and lay Marklin, get the newer "C"track, which gives you the option to run both center-stud AC and DC over the rails. You have to cut the connections between the rails on the bottom side. One rail is still enough contact for Marklin. If you want to include turnouts, there is more cutting and soldering, which takes time but is not complicated. You will have to work some more to accomodate RP 25 flanges, though.

I have built a small demonstrator layout that works well with Marklin and most DC locos and rolling stock.
If you are interested to discuss this further, contact me offline.
Martin.Stierlen(at)ubas.fv.bwl.de

Regards
Martin

[BR60103]

Peco has made (I don't know if they still do) a stud contact strip for their track; it would probably worl with any others where there are openings between the ties.
You could also lay a third rail; make sure it rises a fraction at turnouts so that the shoe doesn't short out.
Check that Maerklin's wheels will go through your switches.
--David

[nfmisso]

Hold on there a minute!!

Another option, that I just thought of, because you said you are going to tear out stuff.

If you are running a block control system you could add center studs to your current track for the Marklin center pickup, and have one throttle as a Marklin one. This throttle's wiring would tie the rails together electrically, and power the center studs with the other output. You could not go with common rail wiring, but you could go with DCC on all the blocks the Marklin locomotive is not currently occupying. You could not use any other locomotives in the same block as the Marklin, but you could leave them parked there, they would not move because there would be no potential difference between the rails.

Other requirements; code 100 rail for Marklin's deeper flanges.

Should of thought of this earlier. It is a tangent from your original request, but workable. E-mail me directly if you want discuss this further.

Nigel ([e-mail])

visit: www.comrail.org

[Anonymous]

Thanks for your help. It looks like it would wind up to be quite a job to convert. Luckly, I am just in the middle of laying track on my new layout and as my main line will be double track, I am just going to tear out one side and lay Marklin track. Once more, thanks for tacking time to reply.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for your help. It looks like this would turn into a pretty big job to convert. Luckly, I am just in the middle of laying track for my new layout so, as my main line will be double track, I am just going to tear out track on one side and lay Marklin. Thanks again.

[nfmisso]

Find out if there is/was/going to be a Trix brand version. Trix is Marklin's 2 rail DC brand. Basically, if there was a Trix verion, you could get it, and replace all of the ac relate items on yours.

Alternatively, it is a possible, but probably a very difficult and tedious project.

First question; are the centers of the drivers plastic? If yes, the project just got a whole lot easier. If not, they will have to be replaced or modified. There was a series of articles on Mainline Modeler a while back on scratch building a steam locomotive, including make the drivers. You will not have to make your own, but you will have to insulate on side.

The you should be able to find leading truck axle and tender wheels replacements relatively easily. ReBoxx or NWSL.

There was an article a few years ago in Railroad Model Craftsman (I think kitbash award) on converting a Marklin TEE train to Algoma Central and from ac to dc.

Good luck
Nigel

[dknelson]

Any conversion would take away from the collectible value of the train as well.
Dave Nelson

[BR60103]

I think you have 2 steps in the process: conversion to DC and conversion from 3-rail to 2-rail.
The conversion to DC will propably involve replacing the reversing unit with a rectifer or diode.
Converting to 2-rail is a lot of work. You will have to remove the 3rd rail pickup, insulate the wheels on one side, provide pickups from the insulated wheels, and check that there are no other shorts. If this is a European prototype, you won't easily get insulated wheels.
--David

[Anonymous]

Some time ago, I thought I read in Model Railroader that it was possible to convert a Marklin model from ac to dc and want to know if anyone out there knows anything about it. My army son brought me back from Germany a beautiful 2-6-8-0 ac but the layout I'm in the middle of building is dc. I sure would like to run this thing. Any ideas?