spikes into plastic ties -- any ideas?

[dknelson]

I have built a bridge -- four track through-girder -- and was able to get just the right kind of bridge ties which are black plastic with molded on tie plates and tiny spike heads -- all one piece of plastic.
So I took my Code 100 rail and slid it through the tie plates. It held only so-so and the track popped out under any kind of pressure (perhaps the ties were meant for Code 83 but I use 100). So I glued it with ACC (spead the ACC on the ties and then slide the rail over it). It still tends to pop out (ACC and I never seem to get along very well). I think I need to spike the rail in at least a few spots to give it some solidity because one this thing is on the layout any incident would be a real disaster to fix.
The problem is, driving an HO spike into dense black plastic ain't no cinch, let me tell ya! So I had a brainstorm and held a spike over a candle thinking it would then melt its way into the plastic and indeed hold itself even better. Maybe it was not hot enough as it only drove itself in the tie so far. My next idea is to drill a very small starter hole and then use the hot spike idea with that.
Anyone have any better ideas?
Dave Nelson

[Anonymous]

Dave,

The predrilled hole is what I think sounds best. That is what they did at Promentary(sp?), Utah, so it is prototypical! LOL. If you are using the Central Valley bridge tie sections, I believe they are intended for code 83 rail. I imagine you are on the right track here. Good Luck - Ed

[cmrproducts]

Dave

You were on the right track (pun intended) with the candle thing. I had the same problem with my track in places. I could spend the time and drill the Atlas ties but I was usually in a hurry and did not want to go find the drill, so I decided to try holding the track nail with a needle nose pliers and just heat the nail with the soldering gun until it starts to go through. It usually will make it all the way through before it cools too much.

BOB H Clarion, PA

[Anonymous]

Dave; this is just a note on the ACC...I've tried the method you describe, also without success, but I think it's more to do with sliding the rail in after putting on the ACC.
I find that if you put the rail in place first, then apply the ACC with a needle point every inch or so, that capillery action pulls the ACC under the rail and gives a good joint.You need a good brand of thin ACC for this.It worked for me one time on an Atlas bridge where the some of the cast spike heads had broken away.
regards / Mike

[Anonymous]

I haven't tried this myself because I haven't run into this sort of problem. I would think drilling a hole through the tie would be sufficient but dip the spike in ACC before driving it through the tie.

Ken, D&J Railroad, Stafford, VA

[dknelson]

Thanks fellows for the advice and ideas. I do not think the product I got is central valley but is similar. It came (repackaged perhaps?)from or by Greenway. I do suspect it is for Code 83 and knowing what I know now perhaps removing a wee bit of the rail base to equal Cd 83 would have been a good idea.
I used the scraps to build a smaller bridge and for that one I used Walthers Goo, once the rails were in I touched a soldering iron (actually a wood burning tool but the same idea) to the rail to slightly "remelt" the Goo and make a solid connection with the rail. Some people actualy lay Code 40 track that way. The problem is the goo shows on the sides and I want the bigger bridge to be a showpiece (vanity, vanity all is vanity). I also want it to WORK however!
Since I cannot remove the rail I think my approach will be to try the pilot hole route and this time hold the spike in the flame a little longer. I thought about trying N scale spikes -- went to the hobby shop to ask for them. Everyone at the counter started laughing at me for even thinking about spiking N gauge track -- I did not have the energy to explain lol.
Dave Nelson