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Woodland Scenics Cement

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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, October 6, 2005 5:07 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by cactusjawas

Thanks,
Just to be sure:
I mix 50% white Elmer's glue and 50% Rubbing Alcohol.
Spray ballast first with rubbing alcohol., then eyedrop the mixture on the ballast.

I put some WS Cement on a couple sections of track last night and it seemed a bit loose in the morning (like wet cereal). It did not seem like good glueing bond to me.
You'll find it's going to take the WS about 24 hours to get good and hard (even then it's kind of rubbery.)
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Posted by Seamonster on Wednesday, October 5, 2005 4:42 PM
[#ditto] That's the way I do it too, using an old white glue bottle. For precise applications in small areas for both water and glue, I use syringes with plastic tips, the kind designed to plug into tubing, NOT the kind with metal needles. I used to use matte medium too which bonded the same as white glue, but white glue has two advantages over matte medium. 1. it's much cheaper. 2. if you have to remove the scenery or track, soaking it with wet water will dissolve the glue.

..... Bob

Beam me up, Scotty, there's no intelligent life down here. (Captain Kirk)

I reject your reality and substitute my own. (Adam Savage)

Resistance is not futile--it is voltage divided by current.

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Posted by nbrodar on Tuesday, October 4, 2005 3:26 PM
First, I spray with wet water (water mixed with some dish soap and rubbing alcohol. Then, dribble on a 50/50 mix of white glue and water with some alcohol added.

Forget the eydropper. I use an old mustard bottle with an adjustable tip. Old Elmer's White Glue bottles work too. Much faster.

NIck Brodar.

Take a Ride on the Reading with the: Reading Company Technical & Historical Society http://www.readingrailroad.org/

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Posted by orsonroy on Tuesday, October 4, 2005 3:16 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by cactusjawas

Thanks,
Just to be sure:
I mix 50% white Elmer's glue and 50% Rubbing Alcohol.
Spray ballast first with rubbing alcohol., then eyedrop the mixture on the ballast.


Exactly.

One tip: so you don't glue up your switches, add a little conductive oil tot he moving parts, and apply the adhesive around the switch SPARINGLY. The ballast might be a little loose around the switch, but loose ballast is better than a ruined switch!

Ray Breyer

Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943

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Posted by trainboyH16-44 on Tuesday, October 4, 2005 3:10 PM
I like it. You have to make sure that you dont hit it hard, but if you put a lot on, it's good. A word of advice: It gets into powered rail joiners (At least mine) and cuts off the power. Befor you ballast, make sure there aren't to many unsoldered rail joiners and plenty of feeders.
Matthew

Go here for my rail shots! http://www.railpictures.net/showphotos.php?userid=9296

Building the CPR Kootenay division in N scale, blog here: http://kootenaymodelrailway.wordpress.com/

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Posted by CrossTrack Trains on Tuesday, October 4, 2005 2:26 PM
Thanks,
Just to be sure:
I mix 50% white Elmer's glue and 50% Rubbing Alcohol.
Spray ballast first with rubbing alcohol., then eyedrop the mixture on the ballast.

I put some WS Cement on a couple sections of track last night and it seemed a bit loose in the morning (like wet cereal). It did not seem like good glueing bond to me.
"What else can you Shay"
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Posted by rrinker on Tuesday, October 4, 2005 1:26 PM
I built a small 2x4 test section to try different techniques before i started on the big layout, and I tried the good old glue/water/detergent mix and was highly disappointed - probably because we have rather hard water here. I then tried the glue/alcohol mx and it worked GREAT. So that's what I'll be using when the ballast crews finally hit the rails. And rolling a metal wheeled car over the unsupported foam, it was actually QUIETER over the ballasted section where I used the glue and alcohol, vs the unballasted parts and event he glue/water area.
I'll be buying one of those gallon jugs of Elmer's when the time comes. Cheaper than buying all those little bottles. Home Depot has them, as does the craft store, and the teacher supply store. With my wife's discount the teacher supply store might be my cheapest source, I have to check closer next time.

--Randy


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by orsonroy on Tuesday, October 4, 2005 1:03 PM
Make sure that the WS adhesive isn't old stock. It likes to seperate when it sits for long periods of time, and the concentrated glue hardens.

I prefer a 50/50 mix of white glue and 70% rubbing alcohol. It works great, is readily available, and is much cheaper than the WS stuff. I use it to bond everything onto my layout.

Ray Breyer

Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943

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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, October 4, 2005 12:56 PM
I have used WS cement, it works good. You can also use Elmers or Matte Medium. The WS is much more costly, but I like it since I don't have to mix it up and get that correct formula. I also when ballasting use a large eye dropper to apply rubbing alcohol first, that helps get the glue to break down and flow. Others will just use water with some dish washing soap to help break down the water and glue. They all have their merits.
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Posted by CrossTrack Trains on Tuesday, October 4, 2005 12:53 PM
like Elmer's glue?
"What else can you Shay"
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Posted by nbrodar on Tuesday, October 4, 2005 12:39 PM
Generic white glue or matte medium work the same as WS Cement and are usually much cheaper.

Nick Brodar

Take a Ride on the Reading with the: Reading Company Technical & Historical Society http://www.readingrailroad.org/

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Posted by wpsteve on Tuesday, October 4, 2005 11:45 AM
Works great, no not rock hard. Remember these are all little rocks [:)] They can become loose.. I use a block of wood with cloth to clean track and if it hangs down it can knock a bit loose.. Not a big problem though..

Get yourself a good size eye dropper, not as big as a kitchen one but not a baby one.. This makes it go a lot faster.. Just spread the ballast on, use a soft bru***o spread it to tie heigth, spray with alcohol and then start with the cement.. You will see it spread out and wet the entire area.. I find you must give each space a shot...... Stay away from turnout points and throws.. Do those seperate and use a small eye dropper.

WP Steve
WP Steve web site http://members.bigvalley.net/norma
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Woodland Scenics Cement
Posted by CrossTrack Trains on Tuesday, October 4, 2005 11:15 AM
How well does Woodland Scenics - Scenic Cement work on ballast.?

Does it make it fully cured (like rock hard) or does it just loosely stick together, like if you touch it is it easily moived or will fall apart ?

"What else can you Shay"

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