Rolling Stock HO 6' Test Track

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Don Gibson

dacort
'Grease-em' is a graphite, and graphite will lubricate your jounals beautifully and also conduct electricity. It could it short out the insulation on the wheels.

I would recommend Teflon grease.

locomotive3:
Chuck: If you should buy another Walthers Budd car and lighting kit, I would recommend keeping the stock half axle's and using Grease-em. (Half axles will conduct electrity and won't short).

I'm tempted just to find out how much better they are over the original run. No body has had the
no roll ability like I had. (My Atlas Dash 8-BW32 and only three Budds would move).

[Don Gibson]

dacort
'Grease-em' is a graphite, and graphite will lubricate your jounals beautifully and also conduct electricity. It could it short out the insulation on the wheels.

I would recommend Teflon grease.

locomotive3:
Chuck: If you should buy another Walthers Budd car and lighting kit, I would recommend keeping the stock half axle's and using Grease-em. (Half axles will conduct electrity and won't short).

[dacort]

I have a double track 3% grade that loops back on itself and I have to admit that at times I am guilty of playing with cars by just letting them glide down to the bottom. Sometimes I even have "races". Right now my fastest car is a Rock Island P2K 3-bay grain hopper (I have a bunch of these, but that one rolls best for some reason).

Seriously, the P2K and newer Atlas trucks and wheels are very free rolling. I haven't tried the Kato trucks but I'm sure they're good, too. A little Kadee grease 'em in the journals sometimes helps cars that don't roll so good.

[Anonymous]

OK, thanks for the tip on the KATO S-2 trucks - I will get a set and test - the 2" high end start before a 6' straight was so that cars would roll but not go off the end - I have five cars that will not roll 3' right out of the box -tested a new caboose last night that only went 28" without mods -

[orsonroy]

Before I moved and had to tear it down, I used to test cars on my layout (a triple decker) by giving them a slight push at the top, and watching them roll. If they made it down all three scale likes of mainline to the bottom without derailing or stopping, I knew the car was free rolling enough!

[Anonymous]

I prefer the finger touch method down my 3% grade when testing free rolling ability.
At the crest, just a tiny push. Not very scientific but functional.

I'm impressed with the Kato Barber S-2 Freight Bearing Truck . Have just a few sets
@almost $6.00 a set.

[Don Gibson]

2" over 14" sound's like a 14% grade. Anything that wont roll on that should be thrown out'
Better to lower it to at least 3/4" over 6' (2%) to separate the 'men' from the 'boy's.'

I would even buy a new set of KATO trucks to set a rolling standard.

A powered 6' 2% INCLINE would give you something to test engine's with, by adding cars. (Engine A pulls X car's up 2% grade). A 6' 2X4 at the lumberyard isn't that expensive. (Attach a flat piece at the bottom to catch runaway's).

[Anonymous]

Does anyone test new HO cars out of the box to see how far they roll? I have a 6-foot test track that has a 2-inch incline that slopes for 14-inches - and the rest of the track is level - cars roll so far as new, then roll farther with the correct weight and then farther still with new wheels/trucks - got a better idea?