Kadee HO scale uncouplers

[tatans]

From some of the replies above and the obsession with KD couplers, who says it isn't time someone invented a decent HO coupler?? uncoupling a train with a shishkabob skewer?? or a magnet on a wand?? this sounds like something from the 1920's. I've never been to a large club layout, are there really guys wandering around the set with long rods reaching over and uncoupling trains??? As for "unrealistic" back and forth movement to uncouple, wouldn't that be more preferable than a large arm reaching across a table with a shishkabob skewer to unhook a car? or is that prototypical?? From some of the problems from the above topics why does anyone rave on about KD with all the problems they are having, to me it would seem the coupler does only half the the job it's supposed to. Again, when the guy invents a realistic coupler that really works(uncoupling etc.) he will swamp the market, I have yet to find the facination others have with this product.

[MisterBeasley]

My yard throat is in the middle of the layout, about 2 feet from the side. That alone makes manual uncoupling awkward. I might try an electromagnet approach for the mains, but I certainly agree that you don't want permanent magnets out there.

[Anonymous]

I dont use magnets. The old 0-5-0 works good for me.

Other than that.. Kaydees all the way.

I tolerate mchenrys and all other couplers because eventually THEY break and get replaced by kaydees. Ive been in this hobby for 30+ years and aint had a kaydee break yet in a normal train.

[ndbprr]

I've been in the hobby over 40 years now. I believe that most of us do not use either permanent or electromanets for uncoupling cars. I have twenty or thirty of the permanent magnets in my parts drawers so I don't speak without experience. I found that they were more of a bother than a help. Stop a train over one and restart and the odss are pretty good you will have to go back and recouple some cars. Other do like the electromagnets but uncoupling or coupling cars is still done maunally on the prototype and is an enjoyable item in a session with the right tool. I have a friend who made his own uncoupling tool and it works great he soldered two 4" lengths of rail about 1/32" apart and then ground the tips to points much the way a draftsman pen looks. Slipped between the knuckles with a rotation of the handle and they are apart. RIck makes a plastic wand like a swizzle stick that branches in to two legs that each have a magnet in them. Lower it over the coupler and they are apart. There are easier more flexible ways than mounting magnets in my opinion.

[scubaterry]

I just installed some of the under the track delayed magnets. It is about two inches long and about one and a half inches wide. You really have to install these before/or as you are laying track. You need to cut a 1/16 in depression in the road bed for it to seat correctly and not interfere with the track. It then sticks to the bottom of the track. The advantage of these are - Once installed you can ballast over them making them invisable. - they don't interfere with low slung switchers like the glue to the track type do. I have a P2K that gets hung up on some of my Kadee delayed uncouplers installed on top of the track. My gauge says it is OK but something on the switcher catches. I bought ten of them from MICROMARK for 18.00, cheaper than the above track magnets. If I remember correctly Kadee sells a version of the under track magnet as well. I also use the skewer method however some of my switching is done further back on the layout making it a pain to use manual uncoupling. I really like the idea of being able to couple/uncouple without interacting physically. I am deffinately an armchair modeler.
Terry

[oleirish]

I've been useing the KD ramps for a long time and they work fine,a little challange to get the hang of them,but fun.Here is an picture of one of my yards,you can see how I placed the ramps,I just check the clearence on eather side of the sideing first so not to drop an car where it will be hit anthor car

[2c][2c]
JIM

[MisterBeasley]

I bought 1 pair of the #321, delayed-action permanent magnet uncouplers. They are gray and pretty low-key, so I don't think they mess up the look. I will need more, but I just wanted to get a couple ([;)]) of them to play with. Dull-coat will make them even more invisible.

I have some old (brass-ugh) Shinohara 3-way turnouts I plan to use in my yard. (If they turn out ([;)] again) to be poor performers, I'll replace them, but for now they're available.) I'll put a single uncoupler ramp before the point-end of the turnout, and then see how well I can spot the cars down the sidings. If I can't spot them reliably this way, I'll buy some more ramps and put one on each siding.

In an article I read a few months back in MR (I think) there was a suggestion that you put something recognizeable (like a light tower or telephone pole) next to the track where the uncoupler ramp is. Once a train is on the track, you can't see the ramp, so the "scenic element" will tell you where to stop the cars to uncouple them.

[electrolove]

What options do I have if I decide to use electromagnets for Kadee couplers? I do not like the one that Kadee have because I can see it. I really want it to be completely hidden. Any suggestions?

[Anonymous]

I use the fixed delayed-uncoupling magnets, but I wouldn't recommend they be installed on main lines. They're great to put at the start of a siding as you can uncouple the car there then push it to the right place. Electromagnets (or under-track magnets hinged so you can drop them down away from the rails) are a better idea on mainlines as they avoid problems with unwanted uncoupling. I bought one of those uncoupling wands (I think it's made by Rix Products though I'm not sure) a while ago - it has two magnets in an inverted "U" shaped frame and works fairly well, though it's not really a "hands off" way of uncoupling (sometimes it pulls both couplers the same way rather than apart).

[NZRMac]

QUOTE: Originally posted by selector

Okay, I'm gonna ask what some might consider a funny question at this point. Cacole, would you please describe for me the process of using a skewer to uncouple? Sometimes it seems to work like magic, and other times I cannot, for the life of me, get the cars to unhitch. What am I doing wrong?

I have found the same with a skewer, someone suggested rubbing the end with a pencil for lubrication and a clockwise twist helps too.[:D]

Ken.

[Anonymous]

Selector,
Have you taken the tension out of the string of cars the same way you would with a between the tracks magnet so that the knuckles dont "hang up" on them selves when you use the wand? The second problem is if the car is sitting on a curve the swing may not be sufficient to release the couplers.
Electrolove,
Divide the cost of the magnet into the budget amount for model railroading and that will give you half the number of magnets you will need. Yes I am kidding. The magnets need to go on each of the tracks in the yard so that you can uncouple your cars on that/those siding/s. Delay action of the Kaydees "could" be used for the yard, however the jiggleing of the cars going through the trackwork can cause the recoupling of the cars and great frustration in working the yard. Second, you usually will be working the cars within the siding and will need to uncouple the string to leave some cars on that siding while pulling others. The suggestion to use rubber cement is a good one, since you will "learn" where not to put the magnet in the quest for the knowledge of the "best" location. Once you get the feel for the possibilities of the Kaydee couplers you will find a way to increase the budget for uncoupling magnets.
What is the definition of model railroading ... "the hole in the basement I keep throwing money into?"
Enjoy the journey!
Will

[electrolove]

Is this the magnet (#308) you are using?

http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page87.htm

So basically, if you take your time and install them good, they will work as expected?

Another question, where do I install them and how many do I need on my yard, are there any rules?

QUOTE: Originally posted by MisterBeasley

I'm also laying out my yard at the moment. I bought a couple of Kadee permanent magnet uncouplers, and stuck one down with rubber cement. (Yeah, I know, I'm "afraid of committment.") The critical thing that I've noticed is that it really wants a full car-length of straight track on either side so that the cars and couplers align properly. Then, they will uncouple well if the couplers are correctly centered on the car, and set to the right height with a coupler guage. I can see where these things are going to be very fussy.

When I got this to work right, though, it was pretty neat. I could back off, and then go forward again and "spot" the car anywhere along the track, because the couplers would remain offset.

[MisterBeasley]

I'm also laying out my yard at the moment. I bought a couple of Kadee permanent magnet uncouplers, and stuck one down with rubber cement. (Yeah, I know, I'm "afraid of committment.") The critical thing that I've noticed is that it really wants a full car-length of straight track on either side so that the cars and couplers align properly. Then, they will uncouple well if the couplers are correctly centered on the car, and set to the right height with a coupler guage. I can see where these things are going to be very fussy.

When I got this to work right, though, it was pretty neat. I could back off, and then go forward again and "spot" the car anywhere along the track, because the couplers would remain offset.

[selector]

Okay, I'm gonna ask what some might consider a funny question at this point. Cacole, would you please describe for me the process of using a skewer to uncouple? Sometimes it seems to work like magic, and other times I cannot, for the life of me, get the cars to unhitch. What am I doing wrong?

[cacole]

Permanent magnets are going to cause uncoupling at undesirable times -- a wand-type uncoupling tool is what we use on our club layout. Magnets require unrealistic back-and-forth movements over the magnet in order to release the couplers. A wand lets you uncouple at any location. Even a shish-ka-bob skewer can be used.

[Don Gibson]

ELCROMAGNET'S, judiciously placed, can be installed - OR
PERMANENT MAGNENT'S between the tracks can be used, and moved.

Upside of Elecromagnet's is appearance. Downside is cost.

My recommendation would be to use PM's first to determine WHERE wou want the more expensive one's placed.

[electrolove]

I'm laying track on my yard at the moment. I need to know more about uncouplers. Must I install them at the same time I'm laying track or can it be done later? Can someone please tell me a little about the options I have in HO scale. I suppose Kadee is the one to go for, but maybe there are other brands as well?

Thanks in advance.