Broke down, went to LHS, got good deals,NOW come the questions...

[Rotorranch]

QUOTE: Originally posted by loathar

Yes, I stocked up on KD's and shims, and a coupler gauge and bought enough Proto wheel sets to do about half my fleet.

Glad you bought a coupler gauge! That is one of the most important, yet overlooked tools on the market right now! Without it, you really are peeing in the wind!

Everyone NEEDS a coupler gauge!

Rotor

[loathar]

orsonroy-Thanks for the responce.I went out and bought the buffing pads to do it tonight
Thanks for the Bowsor tips too. This may be a project I save for winter,but I got the details printed out now and everything to do it right when I get to it.
I love this forum and all the great folks on it!!!
THANKS DUDE!!!

[orsonroy]

QUOTE: Originally posted by loathar

orsonroy- WOW!!! Thanks for the detail! Can you be specific on the paint baking? Oven? Temp and time?

Once the paint is dry to the touch (for Krylon, maybe 1-2 hours), bake the stuff you've painted (metal only!) at 300 degrees for 1 hour. (some modelers recommend 2 hours at 150, but 1 at 300 has worked for me ) Let cool & serve!

[loathar]

orsonroy- WOW!!! Thanks for the detail! Can you be specific on the paint baking? Oven? Temp and time?
uspscsx- Thanks I got your e-mail.I didn't have time to go check out the yard. (maybe next time) I went to Hobbytown in Cool Springs(kind of a let down, but still a few good deals) and South Bound Trains in Franklin.THAT was a cool store! They've only been open a year, but it looks like they've been collecting stuff for 50.They buy estates and layouts so they have a whole bunch of used odds and ends.Nothings organized so you have to take time and look around.LOTS of big Lionel stuff, but still enough HO and N to make it worth it. Their having a three day mini trade show just before Xmas. Said they would have Digitrax guys there for a seminar. You can call them or I can send you the details if you want.

[Anonymous]

Loathar!
I am so sorry that I did not respond to your e-mail. I didn't check my e-mail until Tuesday afternoon(A habit I need to get out of![:P]) If you ever plan on going back, feel free to contact me. It seems like you got some good deals, mind telling me where you went?

Once again, many apologies for not responding.[banghead][*^_^*]

[orsonroy]

QUOTE: Originally posted by loathar
C) Got a NOS Tyco/Mantua Mikado kit for $30.(seen them on the net for $90)
Any comments on this loco? Assembly tips? Should I polish all the cast metal parts before I paint them or is deburring and cleaning good enough?

I've built or rebuilt about 20 of these beasties, so I know a thing or two about 'em! They're actually VERY simple to assemble, and the whole project can be done with hand tools. Here's a few tips to make the process simple and enjoyable:

1) clean all the flash and parting gate burrs off the metal castings with a combination of semi-rough hand files and Dremel tool polishing stones. The hand files will give you the precision of cleaning the parts without removing too much material, and the Dremel poplishing stones (the round, grey, fine texture ones) will poli***he castings to a high shine. If you want to superdetail the engine or change any of the main castings, now is the time to remove the unwanted details/

2) DO NOT TOUCH THE DRIVER SLOT BEARING SURFACES. I mean it; any polishing or "smoothing" of the axle slots in the frame will make them larger and sloppier, and will cause binding. One pass with an emery cloth should be more than sufficient to deburr.

3) Don't bother pre-tapping the screw holes. All MAntua screws are self-tapping, and do the job just fine. I've got Mantua Mikes and Pacifics fromt he 1960s, and have yet to see a stripped out hole in any of them.

4) Wash all the castings with Dawn and hot water before you start to add details. I actually put the boilers in the dishwasher!

5) Use superglue to attach details to the boiler casting. 5-minute epoxy is messier and does a poorer job of holding parts.

6) Follow the instructions exactly when assembling the valve gear. If you need replacement rivets, Bowser makes 'em.

7) When painting, use Krylon satin black spray paint, add two thin, even coats, and bake the paint on. It'll produce a hard, almost indestructable paint layer.

8) I highly recommend throwing away the stock motor and replacing it with an Alliance "Helix Humper" remotor kit. Bowser sells those too.

[loathar]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Railroading_Brit

The wire loops are supposed to rub against the underside of the frame halves - assuming these locos have the split frame chassis? They sometimes need tweaking a little to get a reliable contact but they're supposed to be under rather than inside the frame. I've never felt the need to burnish or poli***hese pickups - the only maintainance they need is an occasional removal (they slide out from the top after unbolting the truck) and a wipe over to remove the grunge that always gets into pickups. Hope this is of help!

Thanks. Yes, all split frame. That paint on the chassis must be electricly conductive because it seems to work OK.

[Anonymous]

The wire loops are supposed to rub against the underside of the frame halves - assuming these locos have the split frame chassis? They sometimes need tweaking a little to get a reliable contact but they're supposed to be under rather than inside the frame. I've never felt the need to burnish or poli***hese pickups - the only maintainance they need is an occasional removal (they slide out from the top after unbolting the truck) and a wipe over to remove the grunge that always gets into pickups. Hope this is of help!

[loathar]

Thanks Over, I saw today that Mantua makes a can motor to replace the open frame one.(only $20).I might look into that if I don't like the performance.

[loathar]

Yes, I stocked up on KD's and shims, and a coupler gauge and bought enough Proto wheel sets to do about half my fleet.

[Anonymous]

At least you fell into the gap between the $3.00 and $4.00 a gallon gas pricing coming after the most recent disaster to befall the gulf.
I am not sure about the positioning of the "wipers" but burnishing the contact area for contact would help with pick up. You will need to find out the voltage of the exixting lamps to adjust the out put from a decoder for the proper level of illumination. The smaller the resistor the brighter the lamp and the shorter its life will be. You may want to concider LEDs when you have the shells off for decoder installation.
The Tyco will be fun. The casting will have some voids in it particularly after you clean up the mold seam areas. I have used Squadron Shop Green putty and some very fine sandpaper to blend it in and polish up the boiler. The more work on it in its raw state the better the finished product will turn out.
Did you pick up some multi-packs of Kaydees while you were there too?
Have fun, and I know you will post pictures of the "Finished" products!
Will
P.S. Cary makes a predrilled boiler for this kit that makes it look like a USRA light (maybe heavy) Mike that you might want to concider before you invest a lot of time cleaning up the Tyco boiler. I also like to prime these castings with a zinc chromate primer from floquil to protect the casting from oxidation and deterioration. Lastly read the instructions carefully on the assembly of the valve gear, it is the only challenging part to the kit. You may want to pick up some washers to take out the play in the motor front to rear that can be a problem with the drive.[^][:p][:D]

[scubaterry]

Wow sounds like you bought the place out! Hope you saved enough money for gas for your next trip. The only Bachman I have is a Shay so I can't help you with your questions just excited for you..
Terry

[loathar]

Drove an hour and a half to go to two LHS's.Got some really good deals,but now for a few questions.
A)Bought 3 Bach deisels,(F9 UP, U 30 B CSX, Spectrum Dash 8 CSX) All 3 have these wire loops to transfer power from the trucks to the frame.Should these loops lay horizontal and contact the bottom of the frame, or verticle to contact inside the truck pocket? Should I sand any paint or coating off where these meet for better conductivity?( some are one way, some are the other)
B) Directional lights on these three are very dim, even at full DC power.Can this be corrected when I upgrade to DCC, or do I need to change bulbs?
C) Got a NOS Tyco/Mantua Mikado kit for $30.(seen them on the net for $90)
Any comments on this loco? Assembly tips? Should I polish all the cast metal parts before I paint them or is deburring and cleaning good enough?

Got some really good deals on blue box kits and Round House kits.Some Bach RTR rolling stock.(bought about 30 cars)Got a whole bunch of scenery and detail parts and repair parts too. All in all, it was worth the trip to support a couple of LHS's( I know they liked getting two whole paychecks out of me)