Masking Tape and masking methods

[DrummingTrainfan]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Javern

I use the blue color 3M painters tape

Same here. I think the version I have is about 5mm thick and specially made for models...

[bogp40]

Besides the 3M drafting tape for general use, try 3M fineline tape. It is used in custom auto painting, is available in varying widths. Can be found at any auto body paint supply. The beauty of this tape is it's flexability and can be burnished into cracks and over (hindges, latches etc.) There is almost no creep and strips to show a perfect clean line.
Bob K.

[loathar]

QUOTE: Originally posted by dgwinup

I believe there was a product used in auto painting with a name like "Mask-it". It was a rubber-like heavy liquid that could be painted onto a surface. When dry, paint was sprayed on the piece and the masking stuff was peeled off leaving very crisply detailed edges. A similar method is used to model peeling paint by using Pliobond (or similar) to dot the siding of a building, then paint over it. When paint is dry, the rubbery blobs are removed, revealing a different siding color that resembled peeling paint.

Don't know where to get this product. Maybe Pliobond would work, but I would test it first on a scrap piece of equipment. Just a thought - what about latex for making casting molds? Thin with water, paint on your mask, spray your color and peel the latex off. Never tried it, but the latex shouldn't damage the plastic used in most models.

If you experiment with any of these suggestions, be sure to post your results for the rest of us.

Darrell, quiet...for now

Micro Mark tool supply sells Mask it. It works, but is only as good as you can free hand brush it on. You can brush on a large area and then lightly "cut" out your details with an E-xacto.
If anyone out there has a good technique for painting rims and tires on autos and semis,I could use a hint or two.I can't get a good sharp line between the rim and tire. I'm talking the one peice plastic wheel/tires like you find on cheaper stuff.

[pike-62]

I use a vinyl making tape sold at a local auto paint supply store for my thin line tape. I can get it in sizes down to 1/16". It follows curvs very well and does not lift paint. To burni***he tape down over irregular surfaces I use the back side of an old #11 blade. Another trick to use when painting is to paint the model with a second coat of the base color to seal the edges of the tape to prevent bleed under. An example would be if you were to have a white and red paint scheme. First paint the shell with the white paint and let dry. Second step is to mask off everything that is to be white. Third is to respray the tape edge with the white paint again to seal any small gaps and let dry. Last step is to spray the red. When dry, simply remove the tape and you should have no red bleed under on the white. Clear as mud?????

Dan Pikulski
www.DansResinCasting.com

[dgwinup]

I believe there was a product used in auto painting with a name like "Mask-it". It was a rubber-like heavy liquid that could be painted onto a surface. When dry, paint was sprayed on the piece and the masking stuff was peeled off leaving very crisply detailed edges. A similar method is used to model peeling paint by using Pliobond (or similar) to dot the siding of a building, then paint over it. When paint is dry, the rubbery blobs are removed, revealing a different siding color that resembled peeling paint.

Don't know where to get this product. Maybe Pliobond would work, but I would test it first on a scrap piece of equipment. Just a thought - what about latex for making casting molds? Thin with water, paint on your mask, spray your color and peel the latex off. Never tried it, but the latex shouldn't damage the plastic used in most models.

If you experiment with any of these suggestions, be sure to post your results for the rest of us.

Darrell, quiet...for now

[Anonymous]

Something else to consider: get a really good burnisher to make absolutely sure the edges of the masking tape are tight. I use the blue 3M masking tape but I bought a set of clay modelling tools at the local arts and crafts store. They are made of hard wood and 4 or 5 tools of different shapes come in a bag. They do a marvelous job of smoothing the tape onto the model without tearing it.

[selector]

I agree with the painter's tape, although I happen to have 'green' stuff. It comes in several widths, and the adhesive is a light one that will not leave residue.

I would get the stuff that is either 1/2" thick or 1" (and cut it to width), and just cut across the tape part-way to get it to bend where needed.

[Javern]

I use the blue color 3M painters tape

[gmcrail]

The best general masking tape I've fouund isn't really masking tape. I use Scotch 230 Drafting Tape. It can still be found in some office supply stores. I get mine from Office Max. It has a lower "tack", and won't lift paint.

For really tight curves, I've found a couple of ways to handle it. First, Pactra makes tape down to 1/16" in width, which can be curved very nicely. Or, for doing say, the curves on the nose of an EMD F- or E-unit, I've taken a piece of thin styrene, covered both sides with tape, drawn the design in pencil on the tape, then cut the design out with good sharp scissors. I get two mirror images of the curve (something that's very tough to do freehand) in tape which I can then peel off the styrene and apply to the model.

[Tracklayer]

Masking tape isn't always the answer for masking things off... I've personally had to cut poster board or copy paper to the desired design, then tape on to it, use clamps, clothes pins, etc to keep it in place long enough to get the job done without maring the paint under it.

Good luck...

Tracklayer

[BigRusty]

I am returning to active model railroading (HO NHRR) and have a large roster of undec diesel engines and rolling stock in need of paint and decal work. I have done a lot of this in the past and have the air brush and compressor and acquiring the paint and decals. Any suggestions as to what masking tape works best for the tricky curves to get good adhesion without pulling off the base coat of paint?