Follow Up - Airbrushing Questions Part II

[Rotorranch]

I'd stay away from cleaning your airbrush with q-tips or cotton balls. The cotton fibers could foul the brush, or your next paint job!

I keep a jar of laquer thinner on the bench, and when finished paintiing, and after cleaning, I disassemble the air brush and put the metal parts in the thinner to soak. It helps make sure nothing hardens in the brush during non use.

Rotor

[doctorwayne]

I usually paint with lacquer-based paints like Floquil, Scalecoat, SMP Accupaint, or Testors. Any of these paints can be thinned with ordinary lacquer thinner, available at hardware stores by the gallon for less than the cost of a pint of the paint manufacturer's thinner. While no good as a thinner for water-based paints, it is useful as an airbrush cleaner (except the plastic parts - as an aside I also use it as a cheap and effective cement for styrene.) My airbrush is a 30 year old Paasche VL. I still do some custom painting and a lot of painting now on my own stuff. If you keep your airbrush clean, it should last indefinitely, with only occasional replacement of minor parts. Probably because I have worked for so long with lacquer-based paints, I have some difficulty with some acrylics, particularily with regards to pressure and needle settings, although I am making progress.
I use the cup only for spraying thinner through the airbrush when changing to drastically different colours during a painting session. If I have enough projects
ready for painting at the same time, I generally work through from the clear coats, to the whites and yellows, then to the boxcar reds and browns, followed by varios blacks, and then weathering last. I have found that the small bottles made by Floquil for the no-longer-available Polly S paints are the same size as the small bottle supplied with the Paasche airbrush and that the bottles from Testors Modelmasters paints will also fit. When I need larger quantities of paint, especially custom-mixed colours, the large Floquil or PollyScale bottles will also fit right on to the Paasche spray bottle cap. I usually have more than a dozen bottles of different colours in service at any time and my weathering colours continue to evolve as I add various remnants of colours left over after completing paint jobs. An easy way to begin any weathering job is to take a very small amount of the base colour of the car and thin it severely, up to 90% thinner, and apply a light, even coat to the entire car. This will tone down the lettering and take away that brand new look. From there, it's up to you how much further to go. Experiment with different pressures; I was surprised to find that acrylics seemed to spray better at lower pressures than lacquers for me. Also, it can sometimes be helpful to vary the pressure from what you normally use. For instance, while I normally spray lacquer at 25 to 35 psi., when spraying blind corners, like where a cab meets a hood, or a boiler intersects with a running board, dropping the pressure down to 10 or 12 psi allows the paint to get into those tight corners. At higher pressures, the paint more or less just bounces off. Finally, to clean your airbrush, pipe cleaners, available at most craft stores, are very useful for cleaning the airways and paint passages. Hope some of this is of assistance and in the meantime, always be sure to wear a respirator when airbrushing.

[Adelie]

The #3 needle can be used for anything, IMO. At least anything that I do (which sounds about like the same as your list). A #1 will clog more easily with general painting. However, it will work fine with washes (i.e. weathering) and should give you more control (thinner spray pattern).

So, to answer the question, you can use the #3 for weathering, although the #1 is probably the "correct" tool for the job.

I don't have anything fancy for cleaning. I use solvent when using Floquil and either airbru***hinner or distilled water for Polly S. When I complete a session, I run a cupful (the paint cup, not a mearuing cup) of the stuff through, until the resulting spray comes out clear. Then I disassemble the airbrush and wipe down/snake out everything with either q-tips, paper towels or cotton balls. I usually finish with a wipe down/snake out of solvent (Diosol) regardless of what paint I used because I found it seems to remove anything. Then I reassemble it and check the moving parts to make sure they move freely. Finally, I'll wipe down the outside so it looks decent. Then comes cleaning the paint cup and bottles in much the same way.

[Anonymous]

Resurrecting this bad boy [}:)]

Okay, I have the idea you guys posted, much thanks, they are all great tips and help, made a world of sense and I can now grasp what I have in front of me, soon I will have to get that Dremmel tool going, for another time.

I do have some follow up questions though, I looked at the tips and needles, I do see one that has a 3 stripe band around the end of the needle, I don't see any other needles with any banding, I used a magnifier I have and don't see any numbers or maybe faded bands or stripes [:(] What is odd I have another needle that looks almost the same in diameter as the #3 I have, but it's shorter an 1/8 of an inch?

Also Adelie, you stated you found you used the #3 the most, would this be best for painting cars, structure etc? Can this same tip do well for weathering? I am really wanting to use the airbru***o finish all my DPM buildings and a coupe of cars I have that need a more appropriate look. I also want to do the road system with the airbrush. As for weathering I am looking at getting that grimy look that so many cars have, chalks while great don't seem to have that same effect, I did experiment on a toss away car and was happy with the results, though I can see thinning it more for less coverage.

Do they make a #1 tip and needle? If so is it even applicable to what I am doing or worse yet clog up all the time? I read some folks (I found some Google and Yahoo groups mention this) have had problems with paint clogging and starting to spatter, they state they have to clean the tip almost every pass [:0], surely they mean wiping it and not dismantling the whole airbrush?

Also when it comes to cleaning, I have after every use taken it apart and use water and some airbrush cleaner solvent, it's a little oily feeling. I really don't want to use the airbru***hinner as this stuff is a little $$, is there anything else that is a good cleaner? Also what type of cleaning tools should I use/invest in? I used Q-tips and cotton balls, I took the girlfiends makeup stuff [:p], she is now concerned [;)]

Again all great tips and help, I want to take care of this airbrush as it isn't mine but my girlfriends, when I got possesion of it, it was all caked up with paint, the button stuck and the old compressor was trashed. I have always been a little anal when it comes to tools, since I would rather spend decent $$ on a good tool then save a couple of ¢ on a cheaper tool.

Thanks!

[onetrack64]

[2c] on clean-up.

For water based paints. I keep a plastic sandwich container filled with water nearby. I am always getting called upstairs for something, so I just do a quick disconnect and toss everything in and snap the lid on.

If you use the bottle siphon piece, I keep a large steel nut in the container also...just slip the tube into it and it will hold it underwater.

[Anonymous]

NOTICE:

All of the thinner/paint ratios are vague - it's not rocket science. I use and eye dropper and just eyeball the length. It doesn't have to 100% accurate, even if MR says that's the way to go. The air regulator is close to my paint area, so if it doesn't work like I want, I just adjust the pressure.

I use the cup quite a lot because it cleans up a lot easier then the jars. Just have a lot of pipe cleaners and paper towels for clean-up..

HAVE FUN AND ENJOY

[Anonymous]

I appriciate the tips, that definately helps me understand better, especially telling the difference on the tip #'s.

I plan on doing some testing tonight so will let you know. And to think I don't like painting, well at least around the house. [;)] Now trains, another story...

[Adelie]

What Antonio said!

I'm a Paasche VL-series user for about the last 10 years. I've used Testor's Model Master, Polly S and Floquil.
#1 - Seems like the 3-tip gets most of the use for me,
#2 - Double action takes a little getting used to, and you might find you have to get your "touch" back if you haven't airbrushed in a while. Practice will help you get the feel for it.
#3 - I've had better luck with a lower pressure than Antonio with PollyS, around 20 - 25 psi.
#4 - I've used both the cup and jar, and it largely depends on the size of the job I am doing. If I have a lot of things lined up to be painted with the same colors, I'll use the bottle. If I am using a wash (weathering), I always seem to use the bottle. I bought a few extra bottles for simplicity. When using paint, I probably wind up using the cup a little more.
#5 - For PollyS, and I've used both distilled water and airbru***hinner. I think the airbru***hinner mixes a little quicker, but that could be me. Anyway, I've found that about a 3 or 4:1 ratio of paint to thinner works okay for painting. I wind up doing Polly S more "by eye" than measuring to get consistency that looks right. Experiment some.

Airbrushing is something that I have to be in the mood to do, but I enjoy it when I do it. Even cleaning it isn't so bad!

[AntonioFP45]

QUOTE: Originally posted by dthurman

Okay, I posted last week I was going to breakout the airbrush and start attempting the challange of using it. I had to buy a new compressor as the one we had was shot, so after buying a $99 Task Force 1HP w/4 gallon tank, which I had to take back as the sight glass was broke, oil everywhere [V] I got started. I have a couple of questions:

BTW it's a Paasche dual action VLS

I have one. Bought it back in the late 80s. Good performer. Can be finicky if it's not kept "absolutely clean!" (found out the hard way). I always flush mine thoroughly. After each use, remove the needle and wipe it with alcohol or thinner. [;)]

QUOTE: 1. I am wondering how I tell the different tips/attachments apart? I believe it has the #3, #5 and #1?

Put them very close to your eyes or use a magnifier. You will see the embossed numbers on the caps. The needles will have either embossed numbers or lines. (3 lines would be a number 3 needle, for example). The needles, caps and tips all fit together numerically. A number 5 Needle would not fit through a number 1 orifice. The thinner needles would be for very thinnly mixed paints, such as for weathering. The big needles I normally use for viscous (thicker) paint mixes and medium to large flake metallics. For spraying locomotives and cars, I prefer the number 3 set up. Good for "all-around" general purpose jobs, especially with acrylics. [8D]

QUOTE: 2. When I first used it, it seemed to spray paint even when just pressing down without pulling back on the button, I did adjust it, so any tips here?

This is the fun part: Experimenting. The further back you pull, the wider your spray pattern. First, choose your favortie paint brand....get some scrapper/junk models you don't care about and practice your techniques. Be patient........you'll get better and more comfortable with practice. You can turn the wheel and pre-set it to your favored position once you gain some practice with it. This is, in a way, turns it into a single action airbrush, you just press and shoot.

QUOTE: 3. What air pressure should I use, I will be using PollyScale Acrylics. I have distilled water and airbru***hinner.

Personally I like the 25 to 32 psi range for overall spray jobs using acrylics. 20 to 25 psi for solvent bases, like Floquil.

QUOTE: 4. Should I use the little bowl to fill or use a bottle to paint with?

I've had my Paasche since about 1988 and have never used that little bowl. It's your choice. I'm always comfortable with the bottle. Inspite of my karate classes, I still manage to be a klutz when relaxed [:p], so I rather not take any chances in accidentally spilling paint. Make certain to clean out the jar well.

QUOTE: 5. How do you guys measure the ratio of paint vs thinner.

I read the recommended specs and also talk to guys using the product. Some modelers that are fast sprayers may thin their paint more than normal. A good "no hassle" solution is to use Badger ModelFlex paint. It's already thinned. IMHO, it's a very good product. I use both Polly Scale and ModelFlex.

QUOTE: I want to do detail, weathering type stuff, maybe paint buildings and attempt to repaint some older Atlas cars.

Ahhh, patience amigo. Have fun, but take your time or you will burn out and lose interest. For weathering I like to "over thin" my paints. Good rule of thumb for freight car weathering s is that "Everything Runs Down", so I would spray very thin washes of dirt or grime in a downward motion on rolling stock.

QUOTE: Any help would be great. And others are right, I can see this being the way to go for painting and such. I did a test paint of a toy engine with grimy black, I have a ton of this paint, and I was extremely pleased with the coverage, and how thin it went on. Thanks...

----Have fun and don't forget to post your results! [:D][tup]

[Anonymous]

Okay, I posted last week I was going to breakout the airbrush and start attempting the challange of using it. I had to buy a new compressor as the one we had was shot, so after buying a $99 Task Force 1HP w/4 gallon tank, which I had to take back as the sight glass was broke, oil everywhere [V] I got started. I have a couple of questions:

BTW it's a Paasche dual action VLS

1. I am wondering how I tell the different tips/attachments apart? I believe it has the #3, #5 and #1?

2. When I first used it, it seemed to spray paint even when just pressing down without pulling back on the button, I did adjust it, so any tips here?

3. What air pressure should I use, I will be using PollyScale Acrylics. I have distilled water and airbru***hinner.

4. Should I use the little bowl to fill or use a bottle to paint with.

5. How do you guys measure the ratio of paint vs thinner.

I want to do detail, weathering type stuff, maybe paint buildings and attempt to repaint some older Atlas cars.

Any help would be great. And others are right, I can see this being the way to go for painting and such. I did a test paint of a toy engine with grimy black, I have a ton of this paint, and I was extremely pleased with the coverage, and how thin it went on.

Thanks...