Peco Switch Machines

[Anonymous]

I recently purchased some Peco PL10 switch motors for the layout that I am building. What is the best method of mounting them under your layout? They have provided me with much puzzlement.

[Seamonster]

The Peco switch motors are designed to snap directly onto the bottoms of the ties, thus requiring a large rectangular hole through the layout. This is how I've mounted mine, and have found it difficult to neatly cover over the edges of the hole. Peco also sells switch motors with extended pins "designed to be mounted under the layout." This presumably would require only a small hole under the end of the throwbar. Years ago I saw mounting plates advertised for attaching the switch motors to the underside of the layout, but can't find them in the Walthers on-line catalogue (www.walthers.com)now. All I can suggest is making a mounting plate out of .040 styrene (not metal), drilling holes in it for the lugs to project through to secure the switch motor to the styrene, and a hole for the pin to protrude through. Make a couple of short slots for screws to fasten it to the bottom of your layout, drill a hole under the hole in the throwbar, and adjust the position of the switch motor with the slots until it activates the turnout properly. If the activating pin isn't long enough, you'll have to extend it. Hopefully someone else will know where to obtain the mounting plates, if they are still available.

Good luck.....Bob

[BR60103]

Peco make a mounting plate which is just part of the surface mounting device. You can mount the motor on the plate and screw the plate underneath the roadbed. Lately, the motors have come with a little packet of extension wire and tube (which I haven't used.)
I have been using the PL10E motors with the extra long pin. (I bought a half dozen). What I have been doing is: Mark where the hole in tie rod comes, in both positions. Drill a small hole just beyond the ends of the tie rod all the way through the roadbed, keeping it vertical. (this is in HO/OO) remove the switch and drill a 3/8" hole in the middle of the two positions that you marked from the tie rod. Clean up the mess on the bottom of the roadbed. Put the switch back.
Take the point motor and bend the outside mounting tabs outwars at right angles. Flatten the middle mounting tabs. Add the wires. Crawl under the layout. Take 2 #8 round-head screws; put one most of the way into the outside holes you drilled. Put the motor up getting the rod through the hole in the tie bar (fiddle!) and slide one end under the screw. Add the second screw and tighten. Now test it by hand, then wire it up and test. Cut off any protruding pin with wire cutters.
The 2 holes at the end of the tie bar seem to work for me; if you work in a different scale, you will want to set up your own standards.
The pin seems to be long enough for about 1" of roadbed.
--David

[BR60103]

Forgot to say: you might be able to make an extension pin out of telescoping brass tubing and wire. It will have to be tight on the pin.
--David

[Anonymous]

These replies give me a good starting point. I had envisioned the tabs as a means of mounting, but wasn't sure. Thanks guys!
Terry in Tulsa.

[dknelson]

I assume you are using Peco switches in addition to their switch machines? Last year I was able to get a Peco catalog cheap at a swap meeet. It has a great deal of useful information about the product. I do not think they are free but if you are using Peco track I think you would find it to be a good investment. Mine was a year old and I got it at Walthers here in Milwaukee for 50 cents (it had been their counter copy). You might want to see if your local hobby shop has a counter copy you can at least look at and maybe even borrow
Dave Nelson

[Anonymous]

Does Peco have a website with this info?

[Seamonster]

The Peco website is at www.peco-uk.com/. The only product information they have is on their lastest offerings. They don't have their entire product line available. You'd have to buy their catalogue for that. Walthers sells it.
...Bob

[Seamonster]

Walthers sells the Peco catalogue.
...Bob

[BR60103]

I've just found in my parts box (and I saw one today at the Hobby shop) a device called Invis-a-mount by F&H Enterprises. It is a plastic casting that holds the Peco motor under the roadbed and provides an extension for the operating rod. There is a large extension that goes through the roadbed and provides the space for the rod.
I have one of these in operation and it seems to work.
The mounting card says HO on one side and N on the other (same device!)
--David.

[WEUSANDCORR]

Hi If you are using Peco switches with the Peco motors back the spring tension off a bit on the throw bar helps motors and cuts down on the noise abit
Les

[Anonymous]

You're right, Les.
When I still used power turnouts,I've had them where a new Peco motor wouldn't even throw a new switch at the workbench, even at 16 volts.Had to reduce tension.
regards / Mike

[rap1212]

Hello everyone, My name is Roger Pelletier. My grandfather is the inventor of the invis-a-mount. The reason you have not been able to find them is because my grandfather has passed away. I have a surplus of what he had left. I was looking to keep these going in my grandfather's memory but have not been able to find anyone interested in buying them. If anyone has any need for these you can reach me at [e-mail]. I greatly appreciate any help.

Roger Pelletier

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by WEUSANDCORR

Hi If you are using Peco switches with the Peco motors back the spring tension off a bit on the throw bar helps motors and cuts down on the noise abit
Les

How do you back the tension off the springs on these switches? I have a turnout that won't move when the PECO switch machine is attached. Moves great by hand, and the switch machine works when not attached...

[rap1212]

Hello, My name is Roger Pelletier named after the inventor of the item you are looking for. It is called an invis-a-mount. I happen to have what is left of his inventory before he passed away. I have been trying to fifgure out a way to get these items out there so you guys can easily get them. If you have any suggestions let me know. I will sell these items for $2.00 plus shipping and handling if you need them. I wish I could find a way to get these out there to all of you model railroaders. Well I hope this helps.

[Anonymous]

to reduce the spring tension you can use a pair of small nosed pliers to grip the end of the spring where it protrudes through the switch rod and push it towards the thing between the rails that holds the other end of the spring.

You have to push moderately hard but the effect is that it reduces the maximum extended length of the spring so it doesn't press the rails so hard.

Another alternative i have found is when you are making your wallpaper paste based scenery, drop a piece of newspaper coated in wallpaper paste on the switch - try and clean the wallpaper paste off but you won't get it all. The residue will cause the spring to rust which seems to reduce the spring tension! [#oops]

neil

[Anonymous]

Living in England, I have used quite a few Peco switch machines as there are few alternatives readily available and inexpensive. Also can be bought second hand.
Installing most of them I have used this technique to get a neat appearance. I cut a large rectangular hole where the machine is to go, cover it with paper and glue the paper down. You can even get the paper to follow the contour of the roadbed. Then I paint the roadbed including the paper. Later I cut a small hole where the actuating pin is to pass through into the centre of the switch throwbar. After laying the track, I pu***he switch machine up from below, using the extended actuating pin makes it easier to position. Holding the switch down, you can then get the fixing tabs to punch their way through the paper and thus fix the machine to switch. Tilt the machine slightly so that it enters at one side first.
Needs a bit of patience but it leaves a neat installation.