Homeade Signal system

[Don Gibson]

All you need is:

1. the hardware signal (2 for bidirectional) per block.
2.Detection
3.Controller (cicuitry to activate the signal(s) realistically.

A supplier of all 3 is ISS. http://www.integratedsignalsystems.com/Default.htm

Figure $50 min. per block for a BI DIRECTIONAL ABS operating system. $30 + SINGLE DIRECTION. Working Target signals run $20 each.

[Anonymous]

I forgot to mention that I am not using Switch machines. I can't afford Tortise, and i don't really like Tortise ones. I prefer to use ground throws. If i was using Tortise machines i would be using the Digitrax signal system

[steffd]

I am operating in both DCC and Standard DC and have be using the BD-8 Block occupancy detector for 8 block protection from “W. S. Ataras Engineering Inc.” (The Signaling Solution) and it works great in both settings. It is based on current sensing technology as opposed to Circuitron’s optical detectors, which are 2 light sensitive photocells, which need to be placed between the rails at both extremities of the block you want to protect. If you are looking for realistic signal operation on your layout, I highly recommend the BD-8 or BD-16 from “The Signaling Solution”. They offer wonderful support and also have additional detection products based on the same current sensing technology. Take a look at their Website for more detailed information.

Stephan

http://www.wsaeng.com/Signaling_Solution/index.html

[MisterBeasley]

For snap-switches, I'm using small relays (about $6 from Demar Electronics) wired in parallel with the switch motors. The output of the relays drives the signals, which are really just turnout position indicators. Of course, this doesn't control the trains, but it provides a valid GO-NOGO indicator to the "engineer," since I put these on the frog end of the turnouts.

These are "budget" relays that operate on DC. They are "latching" relays that take momentary signals to flip them over, and then hold their state, even when you power down your layout for the night. In this way, they are just like snap-switch turnout motors. Those turnout motors, though, are designed to operate on either AC or DC, but they specify AC. Experimentally, I've found that these particular relays are flakey at best on AC. To improve my switch motor performance in general (PECOs in particular) I went to a capacitive discharge circuit. That puts a great burst of DC, which drives both the switch motors and the relays perfectly.

I'm using dual-color LEDs which are sold by Oregon Rail Supply as Dwarf Signals, in packages of 10 for a very good price. Easy to wire, and nice and bright.

[oleirish]

QUOTE: Originally posted by TBat55

I was thinking of just wiring a turnout signals with the bulbs in SERIES with Tortoise power supply (same as control panel indicators) to eliminate toggle switch connections or a detector circuit.
When the turnout throws, the light changes color. Position the signals facing the opposite way so I train approaching a turnout that is not thrown will see a red light (like in your photo).
This is NOT the way signals should be, but will look cool to most non-railroaders. Very simple and low cost "derailment protection" (but it won't prevent collisions).

That is the way my Tortoise switches are working.
Jim

[TBat55]

I was thinking of just wiring a turnout signals with the bulbs in SERIES with Tortoise power supply (same as control panel indicators) to eliminate toggle switch connections or a detector circuit.
When the turnout throws, the light changes color. Position the signals facing the opposite way so I train approaching a turnout that is not thrown will see a red light (like in your photo).
This is NOT the way signals should be, but will look cool to most non-railroaders. Very simple and low cost "derailment protection" (but it won't prevent collisions).

[NZRMac]

I've made a very simple signal system. DPDT switch, half of it controls my twin coil turnouts ( with a pushbutton and CDI unit ) the other half of the sw turns two aspect signals from red to green as the turnout is thrown to the correct route for that track.

My signal light is pretty simple too ( and unfinished )



Ken.

[grandeman]

Jay, check this out. You may come to the same conclusion I did.
http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1913

[jrbernier]

Check out the following:

http://www.wsaeng.com/Signaling_Solution/
http://home.houston.rr.com/lrt/
http://www.integratedsignalsystems.com/

The above 3 have complete signallin systems tha will drive various types of signals. These work with DC or DCC systems. Be prepared to spend lot of money - Signalling is not cheap(model or prototype).

Jim Bernier

[ndbprr]

You need something to tell the signal that the block is occupied. There are several ways of doing this. Circuitron and probably other make electronic modules that can be wired in to detect current. Bruce Chubb in his MRI system has detectors he sells. If you want to keep everything separated (which I highly advise) then you just need something to trigger the signal. CdS cells between the rails that block light, infrared transistors shining across the track to the receiver, reed switches with a magnet under the train can all be used. It all depends on what you are most comfortable with. In 1978 MR had an article on signals showing TTL circuitry for one way and two way traffic you could make yourself. I did and they did work.

[Anonymous]

Does anyone have any suggestion on how to make a signal system? I'm using DCC. and i would like to NJ International signals. I have no idea how to make the signal function like a signal