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Removing Factory Paint

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  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Mexico
  • 2,629 posts
Posted by egmurphy on Thursday, August 25, 2005 6:03 PM
Okay, stupid question. Why is it necessary to remove the factory applied paint? Couldn't you just paint over it?

Or is it a concern about paint buildup hiding detail? Or factory applied lettering showing through (raised areas under the new paint)?


Thanks

Ed (who hasn't yet started to do much repainting..... obviously)
The Rail Images Page of Ed Murphy "If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion and avoid the people, you might better stay home." - James Michener
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Canada, eh?
  • 13,375 posts
Posted by doctorwayne on Thursday, August 25, 2005 5:51 PM
Haven't bought any recently but I'm pretty sure that it was under $10.00 per gallon. Don't leave the container open any longer than necessary, 'cause this stuff evaporates quite readily.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 25, 2005 5:40 PM
Thanks for all the help i just have one question about how much will the methyl hydrate cost me? Thanks. Andrew
  • Member since
    January 2001
  • From: US
  • 10 posts
Posted by stewarttrains on Thursday, August 25, 2005 2:48 AM
I have removed paint from Proto 2000 units by using the alcohol that is not the rubbing kind. I found it in Walmart. I get 2-3 bottles and some aluminum baking pans. I then place the shell in the pan and pour enough in to cover at least half of the shell while it is laying on its side. Let it soak for a few hours and then gently scrub the shell if you need to with a tooth brush. Worked for me on one that was even repainted with a light coat of Floquill paint. Just my two cents worth.
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Canada, eh?
  • 13,375 posts
Posted by doctorwayne on Thursday, August 25, 2005 12:34 AM

There are many ways to remove factory paint but most methods won't work for all paints. Brake fluid will remove many manufacturer's paints but can damage some plastics, as I discovered on an Atlas S2 switcher. One of my preferred methods is methyl hydrate, availaible in hardware stores. This stuff works well on Athearn, Roundhouse and some others. With care, you can use a little on a rag to remove just the lettering if you wish. Polly Scale makes a product called EASY-LIFT-OFF, which is useful for removing lettering and will also remove almost all types of paint. It is, however, fairly expensive: I have a small (8 ounce) can that I bought several years ago for about $11.00.
It is extremely important to use all of these products with adequate ventilation and preferably while wearing the proper respirator. The latter two products are flammable and it is also adviseable to wear rubber gloves and safety glasses when handling any chemicals. In particular, methyl hydrate is readily absorbed through the skin and harmful vapours from any chemical are easily absorbed through the eyes. Model railroading may be fun but it can also be dangerous.
Whatever product you use, you'll probably need to scrub the shell to remove stubborn areas of paint. An old toothbrush works well for this. After all of the paint has been removed, be sure to wash the shell in warm water and dish detergent to remove all residual chemicals that could affect the new paint job.
I hope this is of some assistance.

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Removing Factory Paint
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, August 24, 2005 10:29 PM
I was wondering what the best way to remove factory applied pain from a plastic shell. Thanks. Andrew

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