I ordered an assembled set of 5. They look and operate fantastically.
The appearance is great, and they couple very tightly. I ordered one of their uncoupling wands as well and it is very easy to use. You can hear the bearing slightly as it's pulled up, but if you want to be sure it's uncoupled you can push the car just a smidge with the wand.
Coupling requires that you make sure at least one of the couplers is open. There is a small wire at one end of the wand to allow you to open it if you need to. They must be lined up pretty closely to work, but occasionally I don't get a complete couple because the locomotive is moving so slowly. So I use the wand to move the couplers side to side just a touch to make sure they are coupled.
Otherwise, no problems. Since the assembled package comes with 5 couplers, I have one car with the Sergent on one end, and a McHenry on the other so I can use my other cars until I convert them (which won't take long, I have less than 20 right now). The next batch of couplers I order will go on a Branchline and Walthers heavyweights to see how they are on the passenger cars.
You can also push the uncoupled cars (I hate the term "delayed action" - nothing's delayed, they're uncoupled and you're pushing the cars). You can move the coupler's off-center, since they don't use automatic centering springs, or you can close both couplers so they can't couple again until you open one up. Either way, you can push the cars to where you'd like once you uncouple them.
They come with mini springs that go inside the coupler and press against the post for some friction so they don't move side-to-side as easily. I only had to use the spring in one coupler box, the others were tight enough that it wasn't necessary.
The only other thing you have to be careful about is to make sure you don't install them upside down. I didn't, but it's not obvious which end is up without the trip pin underneath. If you do install them upside down they won't couple because the internal bearing will always be in the open position.
Highly recommended unless you absolutely must have automatic uncoupling on your layout. Even then I'd recommend getting a set and trying them out, you may just change your mind.
Randy
QUOTE: Originally posted by tatans As above, regardless of any new product ,the majority of modellers are indoctrinated to the kaydee way of life and nothing will ever change their methods, I just hope Sergeant is the beginning of a new decent system of coupling, hope to see more advances from other companies also, From the latest news on acquisitions it seems we will all be dealing with one company for everything, that being"W" soon they will own it all.
QUOTE: Originally posted by jrbernier Also, note tha they will not 'auto' couple with themselves or Kadee's. Like a 'real' coupler, you must open the 'knuckle' before you make the coupling move to get the 'joint'. Jim
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
QUOTE: I wonder if these will stay coupled better than Kadees and the like.
QUOTE: The Sergent Engineering coupler contains perfectly round stainless steel ball within the coupler that can move up to unlock the knuckle. When the knuckle closes the ball falls and jams against a suitably tapered surface on the knuckle to lock. Positioning a handheld magnet above the couplers while slacked, will pull the ball up and unlock the knuckle. All of this occurs inside the coupler where we don’t have to worry about dust etc causing the thing to stick. Most of the headaches involved with similarly designed larger scale couplers have to do with the interaction of the pin and the spring that flips the knuckle open when it is unlocked. Since the pin isn’t solidly locked in place, its allowed to jiggle up a bit as the couplers are slacked. The knuckle spring then holds it there. The process repeats until the pin is high enough to allow the knuckle to unlock and you get a spontaneous disconnect (ugh). By using a ball, the knuckle tends to jam the ball back down as slack is taken up. By omitting the knuckle spring, intended disconnects can be accomplished with very little magnetic force.