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UPDATE! - Testing results to "How To" Series: Removable track bumpers

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  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Jarrell, Texas
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Posted by Tom Bryant_MR on Sunday, October 30, 2005 9:25 AM
Perfect. I have about 2 dozen still in the box; not even opened. So many ideas, so little time.

Great !!

Tom

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  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
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Posted by selector on Sunday, October 30, 2005 1:25 AM
This is the spirit of the forum. [^] Excellent report, Tom, and great idea, too.
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  • From: Rimrock, Arizona
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Posted by SpaceMouse on Sunday, October 30, 2005 1:13 AM
Good Job Tom.

Chip

Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.

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Posted by joeyegarner on Thursday, October 20, 2005 1:50 PM
I will deffinetly do this one, thanks Joey
Pay attention to what you read here, you may actually answer someone's question!
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, October 20, 2005 12:02 PM
BUMP! ER... how do I find "How to...." series???
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, July 3, 2005 7:31 PM
i make my own. I use some long nails and 3 unused Ties. looks kinda prototypical they keep cars from rolling away(my layout is nowhere near level)
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, July 3, 2005 7:26 PM
AHhhh HAAA, Its a bumper party!!! GO GET YOUR BUMPERS DONE FOLKS!!!!!
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Posted by scubaterry on Sunday, July 3, 2005 2:57 PM
tstage
I've had a bag of bumpers setting around for quite awhile now. Just don't seem to get around to putting them together. With this new knowledge I now have the motivation to get off my butt and get them on the layout. Thanks.
Terry
Terry Eatin FH&R in Sunny Florida
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Posted by Don Gibson on Sunday, July 3, 2005 1:40 PM
NICE post, Tom. - and well done.

You put the 'M' in Modeling.
Don Gibson .............. ________ _______ I I__()____||__| ||||| I / I ((|__|----------| | |||||||||| I ______ I // o--O O O O-----o o OO-------OO ###########################
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Posted by dragenrider on Sunday, July 3, 2005 1:31 PM
Great post and an excellent idea!

The Cedar Branch & Western--The Hillbilly Line!

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Posted by Doug Goulbourn on Sunday, July 3, 2005 11:58 AM
tstage,
Very interesting and well done. This is what model railroading is all about; working out a solution to a situation and sharing with other MRRs. When I get to my new home and am able to start a new layout, I will be sure to use your idea. Wonderful, thanks again for sharing.

Doug
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  • From: Reading, PA
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Posted by rrinker on Sunday, July 3, 2005 9:54 AM
Yeah, the one that's the most dangerous has a couple of push pins still stuck in the end, won't stop a serious attempt to run off the rails under power, but a coasting car won't go flying. Operation is a bit tough as I STILL have not yet connected any of my control panels (hmm, got all the around the house stuff done yesterday, so I have 2 days with nothing on the 'honey do' list..should go visit Home Depot and get some masonite and get the darn fascia done so I CAN put up the control panel...). Of course, I do ave the correct size wood, and the bumper kits...if I head down to te basement, odds are I will make a few of Tom's bumpers instead of installing the control panel. [:0]

--Randy

Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by egmurphy on Sunday, July 3, 2005 8:40 AM
QUOTE: Randy: I have a bag of those Walthers bumpers waiting to be installed. In the menatime I have to be careful not to run off the end of the track, because off the end of the track is a 350 scale foot drop to the concrete canyon floor below.

Pending fabrication and installation of real bumbers I have put a finishing nail sticking up about a half inch at the end of all 'at risk' sidings. It doesn't look prototypical, but I worry a lot less when operating. And it was quick.


Ed
The Rail Images Page of Ed Murphy "If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion and avoid the people, you might better stay home." - James Michener
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Posted by steveblackledge on Sunday, July 3, 2005 5:36 AM
Thanks for the info on this topic, i think it will be usefull,
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, July 3, 2005 1:47 AM
I highly recomend you put your bumpers on NOW. Its not if it will happen, Its WHEN. I lost an Athern Genesis this way. heh, ~blushes~ As for removable bumpers, I simply use a VERY small amount of Super glue and I can pull them off if I truly need to. Otherwise. they stop a runaway engine in its track. PUN attended. ( i never thought I would use that phrase and it atually means what is says)
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Posted by rrinker on Sunday, July 3, 2005 12:48 AM
Very timely. I have a bag of those Walthers bumpers waiting to be installed. In the menatime I have to be careful not to run off the end of the track, because off the end of the track is a 350 scale foot drop to the concrete canyon floor below.

--Randy

Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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UPDATE! - Testing results to "How To" Series: Removable track bumpers
Posted by tstage on Saturday, July 2, 2005 11:21 PM
[For any of you who may be interested. At the bottom of this original post, I've included some updated testing results of the modified track bumpers that I made back in July. I was actually quite surprised at the results myself.]

Hi Everyone!

On occasion, forum members kindly take the time and the effort to share with the rest of us their own discoveries and helpful ideas that they have incorporated into their layout. (AggroJones' method for making a forest of inexpensive trees out of mere furnace filters and ukguy's HO spectacles immediately come to mind.) I can't say that the following will even break new ground, as the idea has probably already been thought up and done by a number of you.

Even so, I thought I'd go ahead and share with you how I was able to slightly modify a kit of existing Walthers track bumpers and make them both sturdier AND "removable". Below is a list of the items you'll need and a pictoral for making them for Code 83 Atlas track:


Items Needed:
1. Walthers 12-pack of HO track bumpers (Walthers PN: 933-3511 - MSRP $9.98)
2. 10 x 10 Scale lumber: Cut to 5/8" lengths
3. Cyanoacrylic (CA) adhesive
4. Razor saw/miter box
5. Track template: 3" or less piece of sectional track

Step 1 - Using a razor saw and miter box, cut a piece of 10 x 10 Scale lumber into 5/8" long track bumper ties. You will need (2) track bumper ties per track bumper.


Step 2 - Using your sectional track as a template, place one of the track bumper ties in between an inner rail tie. (FYI: The bumper tie will protrude slightly higher than the rail tie.)



Step 3 - Place a light coating of CA onto the top of the track bumper tie.


Step 4 - Place the rear of the track bumper onto of the track bumper tie so that they are flush with one another. Once the CA begins to take hold, remove the track bumper from the template.


Step 5 - Place the other track bumper tie into the track template so that it is 3 spaces from the rail tie you just glued to the track bumper. (The new track bumper tie should be situated directly underneath and slightly in from the opposite end of the track bumper.)


Step 6 - Use a pencil to mark where the track bumper will lay across the other track bumper tie. Remove the track bumper and place a small drop of CA on each end of the track bumper tie.


Step 7 - Now using the first track bumper tie as a guide, place the track bumper back into the track template (into it's original location) so that it is now laying on top of the freshly glued track bumper tie.

THIS IS IMPORTANT! As you follow Step 7, apply light but constant pressure downward AND inward, so that both track bumper ties remain flush up against the inside wall of the rail ties. As the CA begins to take hold, carefully remove the track bumper from the track template and let dry. For aesthetics, paint the track bumper ties a dark color to match the rail ties.


Completed Track bumper (Top view)


Completed Track bumper (Bottom view)


Complete Track bumper (on the job)

Anyhow, there they be. The nice thing about them is that you can easily pull them up and put them back down on ANY straight section of track. (They won't work on curved sections of track.) Again, this tutorial is written for Code 83 Atlas track but it should be easily adaptable for any other code or scale.

Hope it's helpful for someone...

Tom

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
UPDATE: 10/20/2005

You might be asking yourself, "How strong can these things really be?" Well, I decided to test out the design using the following setup:

The setup
1. (1) Modified track bumper - Placed on layout mainline
2. (1) Athearn BB (Blue Box) F7 diesel* - Set 8-10' linearally from track bumper
3. (1) Bachmann EZ Command station trottle - Set at 100%

*[Note: "Why did you pick the Athearn BB F7 for your test?", you ask. Good question. I picked the Athearn BB F7 primarily for its heavy construction and to maximize its "inertia tendencies" (i.e. it's both heavy AND fast)...and the fact that, if the F7 went crashing to the floor, I wouldn't cry too much. [:)]]

The test procedure
Athearn BB F7 propelled head on into the modified track bumper using the
above settings

The results
The modified track bumper stopped the speeding F7...COLD!...with no ill-effects or stresses to either.

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

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