Can't reglue Walther's REA building

[gvdobler]

Try using a debonder on the CA glue.
All manufactures have a debonder to go with their glue.
You should always have some on hand. CA will glue eyelids together or any other skin. When it first came out, there were many trips to the emergency rooms.
(Nail polish remover will work in a pinch.)

[Wdlgln005]

Try putting a square piece of styrene in the corners & glue both parts of the wall to that. Perhaps you have a spare styrene "tree" from the kit.

[Don Gibson]

TO REMOVE CA'd part's

SCORE the backside joint's and snap off. Remove old glue with an XACTO knife.

FOR STYRENE building's I like TESTOR'S.It run into crack's and FUSES.

[Anonymous]

I should have added at the start of this thread that I scrapped the joint clean of any CA residue with a xacto knife the first time I tried the Micro Weld and then each succeeding time after trying the Micro Weld. Also, I used Micro Weld to glue the other partsof this kit such as windows, doors, and the brace/filet between the walls without any problem.

I wanted to go back to a plastic glue as the CA actually overfills the joint and it's difficult to get a "seamless" look like you can with the plastic glues, which as pointed out, actually "melt" the surface of the plastic parts giving a smoother, joint. Also a plastic cemented joint is more pliable than a CA one giving a little more flexibility in squaring up the walls.

I think the problem has something to do with the chemical change, whether visible or not, of the plastic surface after the CA has been applied. The result is that the new surface resists penetration by the plastic glues, at least Micro Weld. Next time I'm near a LHS I'll pick up some TENAX 7R, which I've had good luck with on other plastic models.

George

[Anonymous]

Liquid glues such as Testors aren't really glue - they are solvents. They work by melting the plastic pieces at the joint so the plastic is actually melted together. As suggested, the remaining CA glue in the joint may be hampering the liquid glue from reaching the plastic direct.

Bob Boudreau

[twhite]

Try the Testor's plastic glue in the needle-tip dispenser. I could be wrong, but I think that Micro-weld only works on certain types of plastic, and the Walther's kits seem to be made mostly of styrene castings. i'd also lightly sand the parts to get rid of any of the dried CA.
Tom

[ereimer]

i've never heard of that , but i guess if there is still a very thin layer of CA it would act as a barrier between the plastic and the glue . try sanding or filing the areas to be glued , or use CA again

[Anonymous]

I am assembling the Walther's REA Building kit(HO). When I initially glued the end pieces to one of the sides, I used a CA glue (Rhino Glue). In the course of moving the partially assembled model to another location, one of the ends snapped off.

I decided that the next time I would use a plastic glue(Micro Weld) instead of CA, so I scrapped all of the residue from both sides of the joint, end and sides, and began attempting to get them to bond together with the plastic glue.

Sor far, I have tried at least four(4) times with no success. No matter how I apply the plastic glue it merely dries in the joint without bonding. I'm wondering if the problem is that once you've used CA on a plastic joint you can no longer ever use a plastic glue.

Any ideas???
Thanks George