Athearn motor problem

[Anonymous]

I have a question about a problem with one of my Athearn engines. Once it had been broken in well, it got to where now and then it wouldn't start up and move without a gentle nudge from my hand. Once moving, it doesn't stall or have problems....only when starting from a still position. Gradually it has gotten worse, both in that it happens probably every other time I start it moving, as well as in that it requires quite a bit more manual persuasion to get it rolling. Otherwise it runs quite well. I have only had one other engine do this, and it finally reached the point that it simply wouldn't start up at all. What is causing the problem, and how can I fix it?
By the way, I already understand the argument that a person should run only Kato or Atlas (etc.) equipment (that Athearns are not worth the trouble), but for budget reasons I need to work with Athearn for now. Besides, I have found that tuning them up (as directed in the book about tuning up Athearns by the Railmodel Journal guys) helps quite a bit, and it only requires a little time and about $2 worth of stuff. They also dress up nicely with a few well placed detail parts. My point is, I know there are smoother runners on the market, but for some of us Athearn is a reasonable option. I just need to hear from somebody else that has had this problem and how they fixed it.
Thanks alot.

[BNSFNUT]

Just a few ideas
Dirty comatater plates on moter
Bad brushs in moter
Poor electrical contact in truck or between truck and moter (I usualy replace the long contact bar on top of motor with very flexible wire I have had untold problems with this part.
Jerry

[Anonymous]

More than likely it can be electrical problems.just try changing the metal strap on top with some 18ga.wire check the carbon build up on the motor(brushes)use an eraser to clean it up.I have a few Athern locomotives since 94 they are easy to work on can be detailed to look real good and not to hard on your pockets.

[WEUSANDCORR]

Dirty Wheels, too much oil in trucks causing bad contact between axle and bogie frame,clean pivot point of bogie mount,and replace the overhead strap with a flex wire. Be careful soldering wire to brush clip causing it to warp and not holding brush in proper contact. I have also found that dust and grime build up in the bogie tower bearings to cause slow response, clean and lightly oil bearings
Hope this helps regards
les

[rogerhensley]

First, Athearns ARE worth the trouble. I have one loco that has been in continuous operation since 1980. Kato and Life Like will be hard pressed to match that.

Now, that said, in addition to what has already been said, you may have a bad winding in your motor. When that happens, the loco will generally stop at the bad winding and require a nudge to start it. This moves the armature beyond the bad part. The same may be true if the brushes are badly worn.

Possible cause? Overheating of the motor has released some of the solder holding the windings to the armature. If this has happened, replace the motor. Don't try to resolder the connection. Athearn motors are a drop in and are reasonable in price.

For example, running locos in multiple units will see one locomotive doing all of the work while the other fights it. One or both locos can develop motor problems when this is done too often.

Roger

Roger Hensley – [e-mail]
== http://www.nmra.org/beginner/ ==
== NMRA Beginner Pages ==

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the ideas. I have already replaced the pickup with soldered wire on the top and bottom and tuned up the gearing as outlined in the Athearn book. I also clean the wheels regularly, but this seems unrelated. A couple of you have suggested the brushes needing attention. I have never done anything directly with the motor itself (other than adding the new pickup wires)....how do I access the brushes to clean or replace them? That sounds like a likely possibility; I just don't know how to get at them. Thanks again for the help.

[Anonymous]

To get at the motor brushes you will need to do the following:
1. Remove the motor as one brush is on the bottom. Remember, or better yet mark the top of the motor for later replacement.
2. CAREFULLY remove the spring clips ( one on top, one on bottom). The brushes are held in with a SMALL spring between the spring clip and the brush. This spring is what keeps the brush pressed against the comutator for the electrical contact.

Once you have the brushes out they are round and will have a concave on the end where it contacts the comutator and a slot on the end where the spring touches it. In a new motor the brushes are about 1/8" to 1/4" long.

If you need to replace them I can mail you a pair. E-mail me at [e-mail].

Hope this helps.
Terry Mathys
Arlington, TX

[Anonymous]

Oh, I won't charge you for the brushes. I've got plenty in my parts box! I'm a little guy like you that can't afford the LL and Kato's either.

Terry Mathys

[BRAKIE]

Guys,even though I have Atlas and P2Ks,I find my good old Athearns are still tops and hard as ---- to beat and will be around for years.All of mine are 8-10 years old.All has given me trouble free operation while my 4 of my Atlas and 2 P2Ks has given me problems....I do have a new GP38-2 that I am rebuilding into a GP39 stand in...

Check that head light bracket to insure it is not shorting out-better still remove it.

[Anonymous]

I really appreciate all of your generous suggetions and offers. I took the brushes out and they appeared to have a good deal of carbon-like coating. I will try cleaning them with an eraser, but one corner chipped off of one of them (had been too hot, perhaps?) so I'm going to get an order placed for some at the hobby shop.
It's good to hear from some folks who can find the good in an Athearn. I know those top-of-the-line units from other manufacturers are fine products, but I actually believe a well detailed and weathered Athearn looks more real than most of the more expensive locos do with the details already added (plus I get a good deal of enjoyment out of doing it). Thanks to your advice, this one unit with a problem should be up and running well again. Thanks again.

[BRAKIE]

Faron,Rest assured there are many modelers that use nothing but Athearn.80% of the locomotives use at the club that I go to are Athearn.They still out sell the rest at the shop where I work part time.

[Morpar]

I have a question to throw into all this. I've been away from the hobby for over 10 years, and have never heard of a book about tuning up Athearn locos. What is the title and where can I get one? I have quite a few Athearn locos, and when I finally get a garage and layout built I want to make sure they will work well when I do. Thanks, Morpar

[Anonymous]

The book I was referring to is titled "Tuning and Upgrading Athearn Locomotives". It is kind of a compilation of stuff on the topic that Railmodel Journal had done, and it was edited by Robert Schleicher, who I believe may have been on their staff. It is quite informative and definitely worth the roughly $15 if you run Athearns and want to work on them and fine tune them. It covers quite a bit both in the way of detailing them and in tuning them up. I got mine in a hobby shop in Winnipeg while at a model RR convention, but I've seen them a number of times at other hobby shops in the states. If it helps, it lists the Library of Congress catalog card # as 90-085824 and ISBN: 0-8-7-315-101-1
Hope that helps.

[BentnoseWillie]

My last 2 locomotive purchases were (GASP!) Atlas and Proto 2000. Worse, I'm in the midst of repowering my Athearn GP50's. Oh, the humanity!

However, like Larry, I believe that no locomtives deliver value for money better than Athearn's standard line. If it weren't for those, I wouldn't be around to buy Atlas and P2K. The others may be better, but the best *value* is still the blue box.

B-Dubya out...

[Anonymous]

I am not sure what causes the problem, but I've had the same problem as well. Try using a can motor. There are some reasonably cheap ones on the market, and are pretty easy to install in an Athearn unit.

[BRAKIE]

Another thing...DO NOT use grease on these drives like the so called experts tell you to.The Athearn drive hates grease and the grease will just foul it up!