"Sticky" Kadees

[dknelson]

One important thing with the metal Kadees, which some modelers ignore, is the instruction to BURNI***he shank -- rub a smooth piece of metal such as a metal rod or chrome plated screw driver shank -- so that it gets a slight gleam. This polishing really is essential to smooth operation of the couplers and is not really an optional step. I'd burnish before I file.
Dave Nelson

[BR60103]

Also check the springs because they often have little bits of metal that poke into the operating areas.
--David

[Anonymous]

YEs..the graphite will help. Another thing to look for is if there is any tooling flash on the top or bottom flat surfaces of the coupler shank. I've found some once in a great while- just file it smooth and flat.

[Anonymous]

I do see some exceptions to the proto 2000 series but assume they will not be applicable to your locos.

[Anonymous]

Thanks. Nice to know my instincts aren't totally off base!

I am using No. 5's in Athearn boxcars (w/washers under trucks) and Proto Locos, all of which Kadees recommends the "5" for.

[Anonymous]

KD does recommend the graphite. Are you using the proper coupler? They make 40 of them.
In some exceptional cases where permitted KD has recommended not using the coupler box lid because of limited space.

[Anonymous]

My layout is up and running and ready for scenery. I installed Kadees on all locos and rolling stock and for the most part they work fine; I carefully guaged height and clearance. I do notice that a couple of them (naturally one of the locos too!) do not snap all the way out when placed over the magnet. A slight push on the car or bump on the benchwork seems to do it. Am I doing something wrong? Would a little graphite inside the coupler box help? I thought maybe I had overtightened the screw on the box but that does not seem to be the case.

Thanks!
GF