Atlas Code 100 Frogs!! Help me power them better please!

[dehusman]

Thanks howmus, that site has some great ideas!

Dave H.

[howmus]

I use a 2/56 tap and screw for the Atlas turnouts. To power the frogs when using ground throws (manual), I use the micro switch assemblies found here (go about 3/4 the way down the page and you will see them): http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm

Quite easy to make and they work well.

[dehusman]

The hole is about right for a 1-72 screw. Go to a hobby shop and buy a 1-72 tap and some 1-72 x 1/4" screws. If you don't like the screw showing. Tap it for 1-72 and put the screw in from the bottom until its flush on top. Then cut the head off the screw with rail nippers or flush cutting pliers and solder the feeder wire to the stud/screw under the switch.

Dave H.

[rogerhensley]

As already noted, Atlas does indeed have code 100 turnouts with a metal frog. If this is what you have, then you simply drill and tap one of the small holes and use a screw to fasten a solid #22 wire to the frog. I have done 8 or 9 Atlas #6 turnouts this way very successfully. If you have the 'Snap Switch' with the plastic frog, there is nothing you can do realistically do except replace them.

[Anonymous]

I see when I used the industry catalog name for a certain file type on the post that started this thread that the dirty word filter didn't like it. There are two types of files to consider for the purpose of filing the frog to level, double-cut and single-cut. They come in different levels of cut. The dirty word cut, second cut and smooth cut. The dirty word cut is most commonly available and is adequate for this application. The profiles to consider is mill or flat file and half round. The second thing to know is that files get finer as they get smaller. A 4" file is probably the best size for this operation used in a draw file technique. The draw file technique is place the file perpendicular to the surface and pull the file the length of the surface being filed. Clean the file often as chips lodged in the file teeth will spoil what would otherwise have been a nice surface. I don't use powered frogs because my needs have been met by correcting the frog height. I'm sure there is a purchase out there that I'll make that will have me powering frogs but I'll wait until it occurs.

[conford]

The frog is made of aluminum, so it is virtually impossible to solder without melting the ties. Better to use the brass screw technique described above.

However, the way they're made, the frog isn't level with the rest of the track. This breaks the electrical connection as your pickup wheels roll onto the dead frog. I have had success filing the whole thing level using a big flat file. Just keep filing away on the frog until it is level with the rest of the rails of the switch. I have modified a number this way, not powered the frogs and they work pretty reliably. The Atlas switches are ugly, but they are serviceable and cheap. They are "DCC friendly", although I prefer the live frog switches.

So I suggest you file them flat, leave them dead, and see how that works.

Good luck
Peter
conford

[rrinker]

If they are the metal frog ones, you can power them. The newer ones even have a hole where you can solder a wire on, except the blackening tends to prevent a good solder joint. Your best bet there is to tap the hole and screw in a brass screw, and solder a wire to the brass screw.
If you have the plastic frog ones, you'll have to replace them.

--Randy

[Don Gibson]

No. Replace them.
Atlas Code 100 switches have always had plastic frogs, or isolated metal. Replace them with 'Power Routing' type (non DCC), Peco 'elecro frog' - or Shinohara, - or put up with them.

[Anonymous]

I would like to know if there is a way to power up these frogs a little bit due to my Yard only layout. I have about 20 switches and they are all cde 100 switches, and was wondering, if it would be best for me to just replace them or if there was a way to power them up?