Number boards-lighted

[Anonymous]

How can I make my own «fims» (white numerals on black bakground) for lighted number boards so that the numerals show clearly by day and that no light filters through the black background at night?

[AntonioFP45]

[#welcome][#welcome][#welcome][#welcome]

Welcome Aboard!

A method I learned years ago from a seasoned modeler is to use quality decal paper. In your case obtain decals (preferably Microscale) with solid black fields or areas. Cut out and install. After they've cured thoroughly, then apply your white numbers on top and "voila", you're done with nice results!

10-4!

[Anonymous]

[#welcome]
That's going to be tough to do especially with small scales like HO and N. Micro-Scale decals has number boards but the film may be too thin to be as opaque as you would like. What scale do you model? Details Associates makes photo etched brass numberboard stencils in HO scale. I think it would be like printing your name on a grain of rice.

[AntonioFP45]

Gsetter,

It's actually easy, with patience. I did it to an Athearn U33B.

The majority of HO locomotives have removable numberboard lenses. It's a simple matter of taking them out, applying the decals and carefully reinserting back into the locomotive.

The black or white background decal is simple. Getting the numbers on straight does provide more of a challenge which is where Micro-Sol/Micro-Set come in handy to move the decals into place.

[dharmon]

Okay..here's my technique....I print my own decals on a laserjet. Using MS Powerpoint (or your choice of programs) I select text box color as black and text color as white. You can use either white or clear decal paper. When the decal prints on clear paper you get a black box with transparent numbers. I then paint the numberboard white and apply the decal once the paint dries so the numbers now appear white (white paint step not required if you use the white paper). The I seal the edges on the numberboard with some black paint to prevent leakage. The final step is to seal the decal with clear gloss, which provides the added effect of glass. And Viola!

Dan

[Fergmiester]

When I got the Challenger the LED number boards lit up the night sky so what I did was scale a set of numbers (Font 4 or 6) on my Paint Shop Pro 8 software and printed white on black. (I suspect it's the same as any other program). The nice thing about the Challenger is the boards easily disassemble. This is where I had to tinker. I had to put three layers of masking tape behind the numbers in order to reduce the brightness. It could do with another layer but....

Use a very sharp X-acto knife when cutting out the numbers and tape.

Fergie

[Anonymous]

Thanks to all of you. I had been searching that problem for a long time; finding no answer, I joined the forum especialy for that reason just yesterday and came out of the dark in less than 24 hours. I was not a forum fan before, but now I can appreciate their usefulness. Incidentally, I am in O Sacle (2 Rail) with DCC, just beginning a 32X12 around the wall eye level shelf layout. Having been involved with full sacle railroads all my life, ligthed numberboards are a must for me. The first locos I want to fix are two factory painted Red Caboose GP-9 (one CN and one CP); RC insruction sheets clearly specify that the kit does not provide lighted number boards; however they are made of thick clear plastic (possibly lucite) with a black surface and perfect white numerals; but when I tried to backlight them, light filtered through the black surface which therefore appeared grayish, while the numerals stod out as black shadows...not very prototypical indeed!