fascia profile

[Anonymous]

Hi Faron,

I just finished doing what you describe. I installed the fascia, then 'profiled' it using a sabre saw. The profile is random and undulating, basically following the overal contours I envisioned for the completed scenery. Then I attached the subform for the hard-shell scenery to the inside edge of the fascia (hot glue) making sure the scenery would just come up to the edge of the fascia. Then I created the hard shell. In some places the hard shell 'leaked' over the edge of the fascia, but I was able to clean it easily after it dried.

Hope this helps.
Dwayne A.

[Sperandeo]

I install my Masonite hardboard fascia before building the scenery (in most areas long before). But since I'm modeling prototype scenes I have some idea of what the contours should be and I've cut them into the top of the fascia as I was installing it. For the most part I screw the hardboard in place, marke the top contours, take it down and lay it flat to saw it, then reinstall it.

Good luck,

Andy

Andy Sperandeo
MODEL RAILROADER Magazine

[Anonymous]

Faron,
I build a rough "sub-fascia" that the scenery is atatched to, then,when it's close to finished, I atatch the finish fascia and fill in any gaps behind.
Eric from Doylestown

[Anonymous]

I will be starting some mountain scenery in a few weeks. I plan to install the fascia before I do the scenery and attach my scenery to the fascia board as its built.

[Anonymous]

How is the best way to put up fascia that has a rolling, changing top profile to match the hills, grade changes, etc. of your scenery? Every article I have read on the topic simply suggests that you get the scenery put in place as you want it, and then clamp or hold your fascia material up to it and trace the top scenery line on it; then cut that line with a saber saw and mount the fascia board. That all sounds nice, but if you want the mounted fascia to lay and flow smoothly along the face of your benchwork, the front of your scenery will have to come out to the front edge of the benchwork to precisely the correct point, and then drop off at 90 degrees (so the fascia will mount to it without gaps and holes everywhere behind it). Does anybody do it the other way, by first envisioning the lay of the land and cutting a fascia profile like you want it to look, and then bring the scenery out to it after it's mounted? Or what is the trick to getting the edge of the scenery just right so the fascia mounts nicely to it?
Thanks alot.