Varney bodies

[Anonymous]

I am looking at some Varney bodies. I do not know what running gear they would fit on. Can anybody help? Also I am interested in the early diesel era and I was wondering what brands of motive power should I be looking for? I do not want to purchase high dollar units, but would be happy with something that I can modify or kitba***o receive acceptable results. I saw somebody had a post about Athearn BBs, are AHM, Walther acceptable models? Thanks for the help.

[Anonymous]

What I first posted: If I remember my Athearn history correctly, Varney was the predecessor to Athearn. I'll hit the books when I'm home tonight. I'm very sure that a Varney body will fit an Athearn chassis of the same model.
Well I I didn't remember correctly. It was Globe, not Varney. Sorry for the mis-info.

I agree with Matt, the Railroading_Brit. Find a Varney drive for your shell if possible. The model should reside in a display case.

The first prototype diesels were generally box cabs and industrial locomotives. Then came Alco RS1, EMC (EMD) F-3, the BL-2 & GP7 just to name a few.

Athearn Blue Box lends itself to detailing well. There are a few inexpensive things you can do to improve their proformance like replacing the metal contact strips with wire, changing the wheels to nickel-silver wheels, checking the gears for binding and, if needed, adding a thrust washer on the worm gear. I highly recommend Railmodel Journal's book "Tuning & Upgrading Athearn Locomotives" to all Athearn owners.

You can find great deals on Life Like Proto 2000 which, in my opinion, is a better running and detailed model right out of the box. Bachmann Spectrum is a good brand too. Atlas is a excelent brand and if you look hard enough you just might find a good deal on one. Personally I don't like AHM, Walthers, Model Power or Con-Cor.

[Anonymous]

Walthers make some fine locos - I have one of their Dash 8-40Bs and one of the F40PHs, and would buy more of both without any worries. For early locos I would suggest looking at LifeLike's "Proto" ranges - Proto 1000 and 2000, 2k is more detailed though both have great drive systems. The P1k Fairbanks-Morse C-Liner is a superb loco (I have 2) and can be had from some online suppliers very cheaply - Trainworld are currently listing them for $20 each, a real bargain. Just avoid the normal LifeLike line, as it's awful by most accounts!

Regarding the Varney bodyshells, I would advise putting them aside as museum pieces - maybe hunt down some original drive systems and keep them as "period pieces". Most of their products have now been superseded by much-improved modern toolings. Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't mind a couple of the old Varney Fs, but I wouldn't regard them as front-line power, more a piece of history. Buying new drive units for them would most likely cost as much as buying newer complete locos, so it would make more sense to keep them as historical pieces. Hope this helps!

[twhite]

Well, I've got some old Varney metal freight cars that I still run regularly, so if they're Museum Pieces, they're a working museum, LOL! Check out Northwest Short Line, they make a self-powered diesel truck that you might be able to adapt to those Varney shells. I don't know whether or not it would be worth the time, effort and expense, but it's kind of fun to have some antiques rolling around the layout--God knows I've got my share!!
Tom[:)][:)]

[rogerhensley]

Most of Varney plastic became Life-Like. As to what the F3A and B shell will fit on, Blue Box Athearn Funit chassis works well. The Varney F3B shell needs some help, but close coupling to the A and using a diaphram on the other end works wonders.