N scale rail joiners are tough and I need help?

[Anonymous]

I am using Atlas N scale snap track for my layout and am having a very hard time getting the rail joiners to connect to the track due to their small size and fragileness.. They are so very small and fragile. If I grip them with pliers, I apply too much pressure and ruin them. If I use my hands, they dig into my skin and cut my fingers. Is there anything anyone can recommend to make it easier for me to connect my track? Soldering is not an option for me.

[Anonymous]

Though one here, as i model N scale and have chosen to use flex track (not so many rail joiners) and soldered it. How ever, in the past, i did use snap track from Atlas, an d had similar problems. I found that starting the joiner on the rail, then using a peice of pine board(softer wood) to press it on the rest of the way. but it did some times bend the joiner in an undesisrable position. They used to allready have the joiner connected if im correct, but that was a long time ago.

Ryan

[retsignalmtr]

i'm also in n scale and i find that with new pieces of atlas track that there are burrs on the ends of the rails that impede the rail joiner from sliding on easily. it's the same with the flex track and switches too. i have damaged a couple of switches trying to force the joiners on them. i remember when the joiners were put on at the factory. take a small file and dress up the ends of the rail on the sides and the bottom. atlas probably saves money by cutting out a finishing step during manufacturing. don't bend or squeeze the joiners as they may go out of shape and leave uneven joints.

[Adelie]

The pine trick deeresales talked about has served me well. I use code 55 and keep a short section of flex track that is mangled around (here after referred to as "the tool" since that sounds better) to force rail joiners on. If I have a joiner that is a problem, I force it on the tool (I bent it on a 90-degree angle so I could get a little leverage) as close to the end as I can get. Using a pine board works well for that. Then I "join" the tool to the section the joiner is going to be on. I use a needle nose to gently work it from the mangled section to the real section. Once the two are joined, I use the needle nose to hold it on the real section while I work the tool off.

It is a pain, but they are cheap. If I mangle one, which I do regularly, it doesn't cost much to chuck it and try again. I've found the ones in the packages seem to fit better than the ones that come with the turnouts, for whatever reason. The good ones are great, but the bad ones are a lot of work.

It's sort of a sad editorial when it takes all my patience and creative skills to outwit a rail joiner!

[Anonymous]

adelie / mrdisco102: I as well now use code 55, thought i may have found some ridcule about the pine bord force on trick ( i was assuming disco102 was using code 80 rail) but as you stated code 55 is another story ( finer, smaller, ect, and not to mention re - trucking all the "old' equiptment)
ryan

[Adelie]

No ridicule here for a technique that works. I haven't found a better way than the pine board. The wood gives just enough to generally not destroy the rail joiner.

I do admire Atlas. The idea of soldering feeder wires to the bottom of rail joiners was a good idea. I spent part of this evening soldering wires to rail joiners. No more melting ties. Maybe I've been lucky, but I am yet to have a problem with a rail joiner that I have soldered a feeder onto. Maybe the heat expands them some. Or it is just dumb luck on my part.

Ah, retrucking. Because of having to swap wheels on cars I'm actually thinking about springing for metal wheels. I would not have even considered that if I was not having to replace wheels in the first place! Nevermind the fact that MTL includes the low profile wheels these days.