Removing Paint - First try at custom painting

[douginut]

BEEEE CAREFUL! (he howled mournfully)

A local custom painter once took the shells of my beloved Fleischmann FP-7's and in an attempt to take them from a poorly painted Pennsy to a California Zephyr WP paint left my shells in the Dot3 over night.

When they came back they were a twisted mass of plastic that looked as if it had been hit with a heat gun and twisted.

Harold, the local painter of course bought me other shells and beautifully painted them but be CERTAIN what the plastic is, for there are many different formulations out there and the painter may not be an honorable fellow like Harold.

Worse yet if you ruin your own units you will have no one else to blame and kid about it for years after.

Doug, in Utah

[Anonymous]

I also have used brake fluid. I also have had good experience with Pine Sol. Pine Sol gets my vote. You should find it in half gallon sizes at Home Depot or such. You don't have to strain it either; the paint chips settle in the bottom of the jug. It's reusable. Even with Pine Sol, you need to check on the prohect frequently; I've known of plastic being ruined if left in it too long.

[Anonymous]

I see a few replys use what I use to use,but sometimes brake fluid can attack Athearn units.Ihave had very good luck with Pine Sol floor cleaner, and have never had problems with it attacking any parts of the shell. Its also cheaper and much easier to clean off then brake fluid, just scrub under luke warm water.

[nfmisso]

Chris;

Check out:
http://www.hosam.com/

on the menu on the left scroll down to chemical stripping, and abrasive stripping.

HOSAM is an EXCELLENT custom painter.

Nigel

[Anonymous]

I've stripped alot of shells both plastic and brass using dot 3 brake fluid. The fresher the fluid the quicker the time. Pour the fluid in a plastic container with a lid. Make sure its deep enough to cover the shell. I use an old tupperware dish,check after a couple hrs. Use an old tooth bru***o remove stubborn paint. Definantly use a plastic apron and work in the garage or basement and cover the area with newspaper as the fluid will flick all over. Do not wa***he shell untill all the old paint is off. If you don't get it all off in the first try just put it back in the fluid to soak a while longer. I wouldn't let it soak for more than a day. Once all the paint is off wa***he shell in dish soap and water. Pour the used brake fluid back into the bottle,it will work fine for the next couple times. I strain it through a old nylon first. Make sure you let the shell dry for a day or so, use gloves to handle it so you don't get the oil from your hands on it. When the fluid gets old be sure to dispose of it in the proper manner. Good Luck!

[Anonymous]

Well to strip it I'd use achohol and just press hard with a rag but I just spray it with primer and paint on top of it.

Have fun

[Anonymous]

Try using automotive brake fluid. I'm not sure about your "acrylic" paint opinion, but I have sucessfully stripped stock Athearn paint with this stuff. It will take a couple of days of soaking, but the plastic will NOT be harmed. Just be sure to give the model a good cleaning before applying the paint. (an old toothbrush helps in paint removal).
Todd C.

[Anonymous]

I am preparing to start on my first custom painted locomotive. The shell that I am working with is a previously acrylic painted 4400-series Athearn SD40-2.

I am looking for advise on what materials I should be using to remove the paint and prepare the shell for repainting.

Cheers,

Chris