My Athearn needs some fixin

[tigerstripe]

try this http://hackitup.railfan.net/athearn.html
real good step by step destructions.

[ericsp]

QUOTE: Originally posted by bnsf6733

QUOTE: Originally posted by ericsp

Do the AHMs slow down on these spots? Does the connector clip maintain contact at these spots?

No the AHMs and another athearn (U30C) don't slow done at all.

In spite of this, with all of the other information you put on here, I would guess it to be track related. It might be a good idea to get a voltmeter or multimeter. I have heard of people soldering tracks. I have never been able to do it with much satisfaction as to looks (of course it has been years since I tried), but this may help.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by ericsp

Do the AHMs slow down on these spots? Does the connector clip maintain contact at these spots?

No the AHMs and another athearn (U30C) don't slow done at all.

[CP5415]

When was the last time you lubed the gears in the trucks?
Are the axles within gauge?

I received a BB AC4400 at Christmas, it didn't run at all out of the box.
I torn down the trucks, lubed them, & the first one ran great just pushing it along some track.
The second one needed a lot of help.
Upon closer inspection, I came to realize that on one of the axles, the wheels were pushed in too much.
I took the culprit, eased the wheels out a bit & voila!!!!!
The locomotive runs great now!!!

Gordon

[Don Gibson]

First thing is to clean the wheels on the engine. A cue tip and plain alchol will do as good as anything you pay more money for.

If that cures your problem, now clean your track. The 'black stuff' is carbon from 'arcing' when electric engine's run on track.. Better get used to it.

"The Book" being referred to is probably available from A-Line.
REPOWERING "HOW TO BOOK"
by Railmodel Journal Magazine
Tuning & Upgrading Athearn Locomotives from Railmodel Journal magazine is an indispensable source of repowering tips and techniques that will make your locomotives run like you never thought possible. Detailed procedures (many of which were developed and written by Joe D'Elia Jr.) describe the proper use of many A-LINE re-powering products as well as critical tips for tuning the original Athearn components used in the repowered chassis. Also includes articles on super detailing, painting and adding weight to HO scale diesel locomotives. For modelers of all skill levels. 92 pages, soft cover.

Item # 12051 - $9.95

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by bnsf6733

QUOTE: Originally posted by jsoderq

Two things. There are a couple books about fixing/tuning Athearn. Save your money and buy one. Secondly, get rid of the useless straps conducting currenbt and hard wire the unit. This has been a major Athearn problem forever.

Are those "straps" the metal things that conduct electricity from the wheels to the motor?

Thats right. Solder some very flexible wire to each of the metal towers coming off each truck. Solder the other end of the wires to the brass strip on top of the motor. Should make a big difference.

[ericsp]

Do the AHMs slow down on these spots? Does the connector clip maintain contact at these spots?

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jsoderq

Two things. There are a couple books about fixing/tuning Athearn. Save your money and buy one. Secondly, get rid of the useless straps conducting currenbt and hard wire the unit. This has been a major Athearn problem forever.

Are those "straps" the metal things that conduct electricity from the wheels to the motor?

[Anonymous]

The GP50 runs better with a shell.

[ericsp]

It sounds like this is happening in the same spots. If so, and if AHM has all the wheels conduct current to/from the motor (or at least the end ones) maybe there is a dead spot and the GP50 is short enough to stop on it while the SD40s are long enough that by the time they would stop they have power again. I suggest getting a voltmeter (or better yet a multimeter) to test track voltage. If you get a multimeter you can also check the resistance of the locomotive. Also, run the locomotive without the shell and see if anything odd happens.

[jsoderq]

Two things. There are a couple books about fixing/tuning Athearn. Save your money and buy one. Secondly, get rid of the useless straps conducting currenbt and hard wire the unit. This has been a major Athearn problem forever.

[Anonymous]

I cleaned the wheels and I got it for Xmas 2004. I spun the wheels on some paper towels with goo gone on it. Both sides.

[Anonymous]

Check the wheels- those Athearn wheels tend to accumulate black nasty gunk REALLY fast!

Also, how old is it?

[Anonymous]

Lately when I run my Athearn GP50, it dies and I have to push it to get it to go ON FULL SPEED. It's like the track is bad. I have cleaned the track in those areas and it still does this. The locomotive runs very fast on the track sections it doesn't die on. I have 2 just-about-worthless AHM locomotives, SD40s, and they run like Katos compared to my Athearn. The problem is I have no idea what to do. Anything would be helpful. Thanks [8][:(][%-)][sigh]