removing a screwed up paint job

[jim h]

I TRIED MY FIRST PAINT JOB ON AN A-B-A UNIT. I HAVE REALLY MESSED IT UP. I USED WATER BASED PAINT AND SPRAYED IT. I DIDN'T HAVE MY TAPE ON RIGHT AND THE COLORS RAN TOGETHER. MY QUESTION IS THERE ANY WAY TO REMOVE THE MESS I HAHE SO THAT I CAN START OVER?

WABASH RAILROAD LIVES
JIM H. IN INDIANA

[nfmisso]

Jim;

First; please stop SHOUTING. All caps is shouting on the 'net.

It depends on the paint you used, and the locomotive shells you painted. I would start with 91% or 99% IsoPropyl Alcohol (IPA) avaiable at Wal-Mart and other Pharmacies. Let it soak in a seal container (ZipLock ones are great for this). Then scrub with an old tooth brush. Start with ¼ to ½ hour. If 24 hours of soaking doesn't do it, IPA will not work. Make sure that you do not get the 70% IPA - it will not do much if anything at all.

Next is PineSol, regular, straight, make sure you add no water at all. Same time.

There are some commercial strippers for plastic models, some are safe on most shells....

Do NOT use brake fluid - it is dangerous, and will dissolve most modern plastic shells.

Check into getting replacement shells, and using these for more practice.

Start by practicing on one shell, until you are happy with your skills, you can keep repainting it over and over, just spray gray primer after each attempt.

Allow the paint to completely dry between coats (including the primer above).

Have fun.

[jim h]

sorry about the yelling. i didn't know caps were yelling. thanks for your reply. i will try the alcohol and see what happens. the new shells sounds like the way to go.

jim h.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Do NOT use brake fluid - it is dangerous, and will dissolve most modern plastic shells.

I have used brake fluid on plastic and brass, it never harmed them!

[Anonymous]

Jim H, if by your handle you are doing Wabash Units, you can avoid one of the masking colors by using Micro-Scale's decals for the Wabash units has they have the imitation aluminum panels as decals.

For another paint remover if none of the others work, try Polly-S paint remover. I have used this and it does a good job, just ue it outside or in a well ventilated area.

For masking I would suggest using drafting tape as it does not stick as much as masking tape. Also cut your edge with an X-acto knife so you get rid of any fuzz so you have a nice straight line. Next after getting all you masking tape on paint over the masking with the color you are covering so the next color will not bleed under the tape.

Have fun!

Rick

[Anonymous]

I've always wondered what to do with the alcohol/pine sol/brake fluid/whatever after you striped paint with it. I don't want to pour it down the drain or on my tomato plants out back so aside from sealing it in an old peanut butter jar, what do I do with it? Same with used paint thinner.

Model Building seems to generate a lot of "toxic waste" and is part of the reason I've been switching towards acrylic paint whenever possible.

[Anonymous]

I do not know where you live but in our area they have hazardous waste drop off's periodically thoughout the year, which is where I get rid of my old paints etc.

Rick

[lonewoof]

Our local trash people suggest leaving latex (water-based) paint cans OPEN until the dry up, or mix with kitty litter, then put in trash. I think the same would work with solvent-based paint. If you let it dry in the can it's not putting any more volatiles into the environment than if you painted something with it.