What to do with switches?

[Anonymous]

I am looking for input as to what different folks do to conceal Atlas snap switches to make them a bit less intrusive.

[snowey]

well, for a tunout in the foreground, instead of a machine, you could attach a ground throw, and take the machine off. Or, you can cover them with a buiding, or something. Just make sure you can still get at it.

[Anonymous]

Look at the last comment on this website

http:/www.railroad-line.com/discussion/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID2159

It's a good idea that I tryed and works. Its worth it.

[Anonymous]

Atlas used to, and probably still do, have a switch machine designed for "under-the-table-mounting". It is basically a standard atlas unit with an extended pin on the throw arm. If you cannot find these, you could easily modify your existing switch machines. (I assume they are electric). Make sure you have a slotted hole under the turnout that will clear the pin, and mount the machine upside down below the roadbed.
It's as easy as it sounds.
Todd C.

[Anonymous]

im currently trying out atlas's # 65 yndertable switch machines and thier custom line switches. the specs say max undertable distance of 1" but i have found a shorter distance works better and other than a 3/8-1/2" hole under throw bar and a small rod thru it..it looks pretty good.im thinking of putting some kind of hatch cover or small box over mine to simulate a modern machine thrown switch...these items are available from standard hobby.com...i just bought some a couple of months ago..so far they are working well....scott

[der5997]

If you don't mind a little surgery, here's what I've found works well. It overcomes the possible probems with a long under the table Atlas trow arm.

1) Remove (which on older Atlas machines means cut off, hence the surgery) the machine from the turnout.
2) Flip it upside down and place it directly beneath the turnout.
3) See how the actuating lever moves, and figure out a way to transfer that motion to the points. (It's been some time since I've done this, and sitting here I'm trying to remember exactly how it went [:)] I think it was just a matter of bending (heat assist with soldering iron?) the white plastic actuating arm up 90 degrees so that it meets the cross bar of the points.
4) Drill a hole in the cross bar to take the actuating arm with just a little play. (In other words, don't force a fit. If you think it will pop out, a small dab of bathroom silicone caulk [the model railroader's vibration resistant adhesive] will keep it in place.
5) When satified that it's all working, glue the machine to the bottom of the turmout.
6) Dig a trench in your roadbed at the turnout to take the upside down machine. Don't forget to provide for the wires.
7) Re-install the turnout and test.
8) go to your LHS and get a dummy scale switch machine to place on the turnout ties for a classy finish
9) Repeat [;)]

[der5997]

P.S. I forgot to say that I went to the web site mentioned and couldn't find the comment xbx62x refered to. sorry if I just repeated what was on that site.

[emdgp92]

Circuitron Tortoise switch machines work well with Atlas turnouts. I've had no problems with the dozen or so on my layout. Be prepared for a little sticker shock though. These are not cheap machines; they run about $15 each! But, once installed, you'll never have problems with them.

[Anonymous]

before I went to ground throws, I used to paint my switch machines to match my scenery that was around it--and throw a little dirt , gravel and grass on it while it was still wet, it in effect camouflages the machine, but be careful not to get any in the slide

[Anonymous]

I recall an article where someone had made little removable covers out of paper mache and painted them to look like a pile of dirt or ballast.