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Good Entry Level Loco

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  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Bedford, MA, USA
  • 21,484 posts
Posted by MisterBeasley on Thursday, March 10, 2005 7:49 PM
Passenger cars are longer than freight cars, in general, and often cause problems even with "moderate" curves. If you really expect tight turns, then you might want to start out with freight. The cars are generally cheaper, too. Switching and spotting cars to sidings is an aspect of freight totally missing from passenger ops, and that part of the hobby is one of the most important to many modellers. You can always make the move to passenger trains later.

As for the parking siding in a tunnel - make sure you have access to the whole track, and easy access to the turnouts. Derailments happen, and always in the part of your layout that's hardest to get to.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

  • Member since
    October 2003
  • From: Southwest US
  • 438 posts
Posted by Bikerdad on Thursday, March 10, 2005 7:33 PM
CMajor,

Usually, when modellers refer to "steam engines", "diesel engines", and "electric locomotives", they're referring to the actual power source of the prototypes, not the power of the model. Almost all (99.99%) of small scale, i.e. HO, TT, N, and Z, locomotives operate using electric motors. There are some live steam model trains in the large scales, but they're generally referred to as "live steam." There are also a few smaller scale locomotives that produce steam, but actually run on electric motors. To my knowledge, none of these are available in N scale, and even if they were, they wouldn't be "entry level".

Thus, the difference is for you: do you want to model steam locomotives, diesels locomotives, or electric locomotives? You have a choice of any of them, singly or in combination. Electric looks funny in N scale though, because it is difficult, although not impossible, to realistically model the overhead wiring that carries the electricity on the real thing. Real railroads in North America don't have much electrified track, which means that there aren't a lot of models available for us. European and Asian railroads use a lot more electrification, so those markets also have many more models of electric locomotives.

The upshot is, buy a locomotive or two that you like, along with a power pack, some track, and a few cars, and you're ready to go. No real steam, coal, oil, diesel or water required, just a wall outlet to plug the pack into. A very good starter set (one of only 2 in N scale) is the Kato F3 Unitrack set, which you should be able to find for about $130. Add a powerpack and you're ready to go...
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, March 10, 2005 12:50 PM
Okay... So now, I'm wondering.

What is the difference in modeling between steam engines and the other? (I'm assuming coal?) Do you actually have to put water in the enginges to create the steam? (Yes I know absolutely nothing about it :P)

  • Member since
    October 2003
  • From: Southwest US
  • 438 posts
Posted by Bikerdad on Thursday, March 10, 2005 12:33 PM
The best deal on an N scale loco right now is the Life-Like GP20, Union Pacific, for $17 direct from Life-Like. www.lifelikeproducts.com This is screaming deal, very good loco, get two! The coupler conversion is simple, although converting it to DCC will require frame milling down the road. (Not terribly difficult to do yourself, or you can send the frame to Aztec and they'll mill it for $10.)

This is a hobby quality, not toy trainset quality loco.

With a 2'x4' layout, you'll want to stick with 4 axle diesels and/or small steam. If steam is your preference, you can pick up the MDC "teakettles" (2-6-0 and 2-8-0) from either Standard Hobby or Trainworld for $60, a great deal also. These are great runners, but a bit challenging to convert to DCC. Next up would be the Bachmann Spectrum 2-8-0 Consolidation, one of the two best products in N scale that Bachmann has (and one of the best N scale steamers period), which you can find for $75-85 usually, it is decoder ready (i.e., there's space for it and the motor is isolated, but not a plug 'n pray installation).

Welcome to N scale!
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Santa Fe, NM
  • 1,169 posts
Posted by Adelie on Thursday, March 10, 2005 10:42 AM
I get a lot of equipment on ebay. Depending on the auctions, you might pick up a fair deal on a Kato E8 or PA, both of which are convertable to DCC by simply replacing the existing light circuit board with the correct decoder. No wiring or soldering. I think the F3 from Kato is the same way, as is the P42 if you wind up in a more modern era.

Decoders for InterMountains are drop in , too, but the odds of finding those in a category called "low cost" even at auction are slim. There was an ER Shark A-B set in N-scale on ebay a few days ago that was going for $60 or so, but I didn't see the final sale price. Those are also drop-in decoders, but $60 is a steal (the pair generally goes for $100 or more).

I consider $40 a unit a good price for Kato E8A or Bs, or PA or PBs, assuming they are new in box or test run only. If that is a little high, I think some of the new Bachmann Spectrums are DCC ready, but I don't know if that applies to any passenger locomotives in their line. I'm running Kato and Atlas locomotives almost exclusively because they are smooth runners.

Other than ebay, look at Trainworld, Standard Hobby, Brookly Locomotive Works (my favorite, www.blwnscale.com) and Rio Grande Hobbies (www.4nscale.com). I also like Toy Train Heaven (toytrainheaven.com).

- Mark

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, March 10, 2005 10:36 AM
If you've not already done so, take a look at http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=32704 - discussion on Lifelike N-scale Geeps. Very cheap but also very good locos - you may want to swap the couplers for the knuckle type (loco comes with rapidos) but that's a simple conversion. Hope this is of some use!
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Metro East St. Louis
  • 5,743 posts
Posted by simon1966 on Thursday, March 10, 2005 10:23 AM
Go to someone like http://www.trainworld1.com/atlas/atlas_n_scale.htm and spend $50 to $60 on an Atlas. I am in HO, but there product quality is excellent.

Simon Modelling CB&Q and Wabash See my slowly evolving layout on my picturetrail site http://www.picturetrail.com/simontrains and our videos at http://www.youtube.com/user/MrCrispybake?feature=mhum

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, March 10, 2005 10:20 AM
Well I cant help you there. I model in HO and collect American Flyer for my other display table.
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Metro East St. Louis
  • 5,743 posts
Posted by simon1966 on Thursday, March 10, 2005 10:18 AM
With a 2x4 layout, are you talking N scale?

Simon Modelling CB&Q and Wabash See my slowly evolving layout on my picturetrail site http://www.picturetrail.com/simontrains and our videos at http://www.youtube.com/user/MrCrispybake?feature=mhum

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, March 10, 2005 10:18 AM
ohh... I forgot to mention that it will be N scale :)
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, March 10, 2005 10:18 AM
Ah what scale do you model?
And you also need to remember that an HO minimum radius is 18" wich equals 36" total.
As for a locomotive you're porbably looking at $100-$300
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Good Entry Level Loco
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, March 10, 2005 10:11 AM
Hello,

I'm trying to figure out a cost on my first layout, and I was wondering what a good quality (Hopefully) low cost loco would be? I'm going to be modeling a passanger trains in a scenic mountain in a 2 X 4 space. I imagine I'll need a fairly short loco and passanger cars because of the possibility of tight curves (Which I'm still trying to figure out) At this point I'm not doing a specific era or anything like that it's just me trying to figure out if I'm any good at it and if I like it.

I would like the loco to be DCC ready as if I find I just can't do it I think it'll sell better. But hopefully that won't be an issue and I can convert it over to DCC (Going with DC on this first layout with just a single train and because of money restrictions)

The one thing I was thinking about doing is in the center of my layout where my mountain is build it hollow so I could "Park the train at night" With either a reversing section on the track, or a pull-0through tunnel with 2 switches (Might be getting ahead of my self though...) what do you all think?

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