I'm a newbie at model railroading and would Appreciate any words of wisdom...

[Anonymous]

[:D]Hi! I'm twelve and model the Pittsburgh and Shawmut in Pennsylvania. For laying track I use these guidelines:

-always use roadbed. I use cork from Woodland Scenics. You can buy it in rolls at your local hobby shop. It greatly deadens noise and vibration. It also provides a good base for ballasting the track.

-To ballast, I use Woodland Scenics products. Mix them in a tub to your liking, and then spoon it over the track. Smooth it out with a brush until you like it. Then glue it down with an eyedropper.

-NEVER get glue around switch points! After ballasting check the track using a freight car.[:)]

[rrgrassi]

Always use cork for the road bed. I tried the black foam, but the glue I used created ridges that were not noticed until after the track was spiked down.

When I go to Lowes or Home depot, they look at me like I'm crazy when I ask for homasote, and then describe it. I live near Dallas. Any Ideas where I can find it?

Thanks!

[Anonymous]

Ok thanks All

[METRO]

My advice is to find a good hobby shop! In my experience, most hobby shops have some sort of specialty (like the one a few blocks from me is really heavily into RC cars and has only a token rail section.)

A good way to find a train-centric hobby shop near you is to use the store locator on the Walthers website. www.walthers.com if it's listed there, they'll usually have a good selection and anything they don't have you can get ordered through Walthers.

~METRO

[Anonymous]

I have been into modelrailroading for 16 years. The Advice I can give you is read, read , read, Your local Libray shoud have tonz of books. And also the Mag Model railroader. as far as weathering . I like using Chalk, Try your local craft store. Also the only down side to cork is it can dry out in the long run.. Also try to stick with a flat layout first. to get the basics down then move to a change in grade. Good luck and one other thing try to attend train shows. there cheap and lots of info the people there love to talk. and also your local train shop

[Anonymous]

OK, read, read read, everyhting you can get your hands on. I picked up old back issues of MR and it really helped. THen i got MR How to build Scenery DVD and that really helped out. MOstly i found that after two years, i have made a lot of mistakes, but have learned from them. I find that when i recognize a mistake, i may not correct it right away, till i have a better plan of action. This is supposed to be FUN after all. Right now i am building my second custome trestle bridge, this is a bridge based on accurate plans, and fully detailed. It took me two years to get this far, have to think what i'll be doing in 2 more years. Just keep positive, and have fun.
Plus i love sculpamold, this stuff just is the most fun, easy to work with scenery material i have ever seen.
Bill

[grayfox1119]

READ !!! There are many excellent Kalmbach books published on MRR, as well as articles in The MRR monthly mag. I have found this method a great way to start or get back into the hobby after many years like me. THEN, as you read, and get started, you will have questiones, and this forum is a great 2nd step.

[AggroJones]

-Use a magnet to hold small screws while you're working on somthing.

-Use non-toxic solutions when ever possible. Like Polly S paint as opposed to Floquil.
And glue shell opposed to cancer-causing plaster for scenery base.

-Big Steam locomotives DON'T like sharp curves. Aim for 26" radius and up.

-Don't lay track after a few drinks. You'll just have to tear it up and do it correclty later. I learned the hard way.

-Always use cork roadbed. Always.

-Don't be affraid to weather. Just listen to techniques others decribe. Dive in. No guts, no glory.

[Anonymous]

Never mix beer and mixed drinks, then try to spike down track, and never eat ribs and handle trains at the same time.[:D]

[Anonymous]

Of course this perticular extension is just an idea! All I have is a very rough drawing/plan of it and what is in my head!
All I know is that I really need to get a grade so that my tracks are different levels!

.........HELP!........

[Anonymous]

I have certain layers set up for certain purposes... the first layer is 2inches thick and is meant for rivers mainly, and ponds, then it goes up another 2inches, then another2 inches. So 4 inches from the river and pond piece is the level that the train runs at ( a complete flat surface) then any other layers up are hills and mountains meant for tunnels, or scenery. ([:D] Im very determined...[:D])
But if I started the grade immediatly and made it so that the frieght track goes down to 3 inches or less? See what i want is to do this set in my own image, my own creativity. And there is the frieght main line , and the Via rail main line. The two rails run next to one another and the frieght lowers down into a tunnel at the other end of the table, while at the exact time the Via rail curves over the tunnel of the frieght... The curve of course is not huge but it would be enough to take the Via train through the woods so that instead of being the closest track to the viewer, it would be the second track viewed by the viewer, but really the Frieght would not be viewed because its in a tunnel....[|)] *sigh*

Could THAT work?

[Anonymous]

[#welcome]

I posted a question about a year ago asking modelers how many layouts did they build and what did they learn from it. Here's a quick link to it http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=12872
We all make mistakes then we start over again.

[bjdukert]

I would suggest that you get How to build Model Railroad Benchwork second edition by Lynn Westcott,or Basic Model Railroad Benchwork by Jeff Wilson,they are both good books. Also if you do decide to use homasote,make sure you put at least 5/8 plywood under it to keep it from sagging.There are books with track plans in them as well that could be of help,like 101 track plans,and others that deal with the smaller spaces.Have fun and don't make it like work or it isn't a hobby.

[Anonymous]

(I accidently hit the enter key) As I was saying, using homasote is a real advantage. The stuff is great to work with. In general, you shouldn't have any more than a 3% grade. If possible a more gentle grade is definately preferable. I would recomend doing a flat layout if you are having many problems. All of your track work should be easily accessible. My pike I stand in the middle of and it goes around me. The trains are always in easy reach. Even with perfect trackwork, derailments are sometimes going to happen. This is my third layout and I now prefer ground throw switches. That's one less thing to go wrong and in Nscale when a switch machine burns out or stops working it is a pain to fix. The ground throws lock into place so you have fewer engines or cars "pick" the switch. Buy a few quality engines at first instead of a bunch of inexpensive crappy ones. If you are modeling in Nscale be careful about the steam engines. I have found a few good ones and many crappy ones. Also steam is also much more finicky than deisels. You may want to wait before you get any steam power. Don't be afraid to rework sections of your layout. Most people find places on their layout that they want to improve or change. Don't get too discouraged. Keep trying and it will all eventually over time come together.

[Anonymous]

If you are not already heavily invested in any particular scale, I would suggest Nscale because you have really limited space. That is why I model in Nscale. If I had the room, I would prefer to model in HO but that is not the case and likely won't be in the near future. Using homasoa

[dwRavenstar]

actionplant:
DUHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH [*^_^*][banghead]
The meds are no problem but the crosshatching of the side effects often causes me problems!![:D]
You're absolutely right and I stand corrected.

I can imagine the lack of roadbed could create sound difficulties. I have most of my layout on homosote all but one end of the mailnine that's running over 3/4 inch plywood. The difference in sound between the two is distinct and that's with cork under rails in both cases.

Dave

[Anonymous]

It might be an idea to start out with a trackplan from a book or magazine. Most of these have been well thought out, and most of the problems have been either eliminated or corrected. The planners have already done the work for you!

Bob Boudreau

[Anonymous]

I found it amusing to think that a 2% grade will get you to 8 inches of height in N scane taking only half the length of what the same grade and height would take in HO scale. Unless I'm mistaken (and I guess I could be) angles don't change between scales...2% over 100 inches is still two inches of height, no matter ho big or small your train is. 2% in N is still 2% in HO and 2% in prototype...isn't it?

[egmurphy]

To post photos, can we assume you have either a digital camera or at least a way of scanning photos so that you have them digitally?

First step is to open an account on a photo hosting website. You can't upload directly from your computer to this forum. www.railimages.com is one popular and free site. There are others. You open an account with them and follow the instructions there as to uploading your photos from your computer to the website.

Once you have photos uploaded, come back and post again and we can walk you through how to put your images in a post. Or you could just search this forum because there have been a number of threads about how to do it.

Good luck,

Ed

[Anonymous]

One quick question! Could I post what my set looks like so you guys have a better idea of what im talking about. Or maybe I could take a picture of it then post it....

Any ideasÉ

[Anonymous]

Thats what I was afraid of with the descent... would it be possible to make work over perhaps two or three pieces... sorry Ièm desperate to try and figure it out without making the set huge because I live in a very tiny house. I may not bother with the descent just yet. I guess I really should not worry about that until Iève finished my current project. :-)
Thanks for the advise ort007, and dwRavenstar


As to the comment about the roadbed... Ièm not entirely sure. Its just a little more realistic? Im not sure... Theres a retired doctor who lives near me and he to has a train set ( only hes had it for 40 years) and he told me that the roadbed was a good idea. And if you think about it it does give that realistic look of the raise that you see under ( or around ) all train tracks, once coloured to your likings.

[Anonymous]

I don't think NOT having a roadbed is a problem. But depending on what your top surface is, that may transfer sound to your room and may cause problems.

For my last layout and my current layout I have used a 4x8 sheet of Homasoat Board over a gridwork of 1x4 boards. This has served me well for my layouts and may be used when I expand into the next room area .

I have no experience laying road bed or ballast, but I have bought some Cork and some Woodland Scenics to see which I like better.

Chris

[ort007]

Hello Trainman!
Even though I've been interested in model railroading for 30+ years, I don't feel I have the experience to offer much advice. I'm more of a "receiver" than a "giver".

However, I can offer you what I've learned about this forum. Familiarize yourself with the Search feature. There are so many great discussions on just about every topic that you may need help with. Don't hesitate to ask questions, but also take advantage of the wisdom that has already been recorded. I think you'll be impressed as well as informed.

Good luck!!
Ort007

[Anonymous]

I am a newbie myself. Care to share your experience as to why no roadbed caused you a problem?

[dwRavenstar]

I'd think first off you're gonna need a bigger piece of plywood since an eight inch descent/climb at a 2% grade will require roughly 33 feet to accomplish. Of course, if you're working in N-scale it's only 16 or so feet.

Dave (dwRavenstar)

[Anonymous]

Hello all.
I've been a model railroader for 2 years but have messed up so many times that I just gave up on my first train set...

My first Train set was a 4x 8 table, and my first screw up was putting track down with no roadbed...[xx(] which I am very ashamed about.

So I found a way to fix that and many many other problems... with a chainsaw!
Of course I took everything off the table first, but I cut a portion out of the table... approximately 2x 4... and I've decided to start small and attach more to it later (likely after I fini***his one piece) It's a very simple light piece that I will easily be able to haul around with me, The mountains and hill sides are done with styrofoam, which is easy to cut with a hot knife.

I'll try to get a picture of it in if I can. Is that possible in forums?

Also what do you suggest for a grade if the extension piece is approximately
2x 5 piece? When the Styrofoam is 2 inch thick Styrofoam and its stacked up to 8 inches high( I was after a canyon affect) then the track is right on top. Should start the descent Immediately on the extension? Will the descending track need to curve or will it be fine going straight down?

Anyway I'm writing too much I'll let you guys read what I've put down before I put any more questions! [:)]
I really appreciate the help!