Newbie Question

[Anonymous]

After reading literally hundreds of pages in this forum and others, I now
consider myself a step below a newbie. Being out of the hobby for 10 years
im now getting back into it. I must say IM dazed and confused with
the overload of info. A little info first before I ask a few questions.
I run Ho scale, I like to freelance, Im prone to lay more track then
what I should but I like running 3 to 4 cabs at once, IM going to
continue running DC because none of my equipment is DCC ready and
I really don’t at this point want the extra work of converting not that I
would even know where to start .

This time around Im going to use 2” foam board on top of ¼ “ plywood.
The layout will be 12ft by 12ft with a walk in center where the controls
will be. Im going to use 18 inch radius, I know its small in today’s standard
but I do know all my equipment will run just fine on it, I know Im limited
as to some of the new stuff thats on the market but I can live with that for the
time being. What I do want to do is make the control panel look a little more
professional then what I had years ago. So my first of many questions is…

I want to use toggles for my blocks, I know what an spst is but what does a spdt.
Do? Does the double throw turn on two blocks at one time? Or can I control two
blocks separately with the double throw? And can I get toggles that will light
when the block is active?

Thank you for all your help, Please do add any comments
even negative ones, this Is the only way IM going to learn and grow with this hobby. [:D]

[Anonymous]

WELCOME ABOARD!
I'm still learning too so I will take an armchair view.

[tstage]

zaffie,

[whispering] go dcc........go dcc........forget the blocks........go dcc

Tom

[Jetrock]

It sounds like you have quite a bit of experience, but like me, you're not much into wiring. (I consider myself pretty experienced, and take pride in my modeling skills, but my layout is wired for one cab control, with no blocks other than power cutouts to "park" locomotives on storage tracks.)

An SPST switch is "single pole, single terminal." An SPDT switch is "single pole, dual terminal." An SPST switch has two terminals (places to attach wire) and two positions--either "on" or "off." An SPDT switch has three terminals and three positions: "off", and then two "on" positions.

Neither are what you want for block control.

You want DPDT switches--dual pole, dual terminal. Each block requires two wires--positive and negative--to power the track. A DPDT switch is like two SPDT switches wired together. The middle terminals on the DPDT switch go to the track. The terminal pair on one side goes to one power pack, the pair on the other side goes to the other power pack. One DPDT switch allows you to assign both rails of one block to either one powerpack or the other.

Yes, you can get DPDT switches that light up.

It's kind of hard to explain this way...but then, I'm not any great shakes at electronics either.

[Anonymous]

Thank You Jetrock

It seems that IM not all that experienced when it comes to asking a question, you set me straight as to ask what I should have stated.. I only want to use the toggles for power cutoffs like you stated. One cab, one power supply on one seperate block of track with sidings that I can control with toggles to power on or off. So I will re-ask.

I want to use toggles for my Power cutoffs on the sidings ,
does the double throw turn on two Sidings at one time? Or can I control two
sidings separately with the double throw?

Also, I use to use kadee #5 couplers on all my equipment, I now see that they have a more prototype coupler, will the new ones be OK to inter mingle, I also see that some of the kits are using another type of up-graded coupler, will these be ok to use with my existing kadees?
Thank Again

[Anonymous]

zaffie,

Welcome back!

On the Kadee question, I am just now starting to convert over to them. One reason is some of my old Locos and rolling stock still had hook horn on them.

But, I have bought some RTR Box cars with the new Plastic style couplers. These do seem to work with the Kadees and I've been sucessful in using a RIX PIX Magnetic uncoupling tool with both the Kadees and the LL and Athearn style couplers.

I figure that all my Locos I will convert over, but as long as the rolling stock works well together, I will only replace those as time and usage allows.

I hope this helps!

Chris

[AntonioFP45]

Some of the ready-to-roll cars that you may be referring to come with either McHenry or Bachmann knuckle couplers. Just before you purchase any of these cars, look closely at the coupler. If there is no "coil spring" connected to the knuckle:
JUNK THAT COUPLER.

The couplers I'm referring to use a built on "plastic strip" that acts as the spring. After a while of coupling and uncoupling these will break.

Check out http://www.kadee.com At the top of the page you can select your scale. Click on it. If you model in HO scale, scroll towards the bottom of the page. Click on Kadee Coupler Conversion Listand you can access the coupler chart that shows you which coupler to use for your fleet.

Hope this helps.[:D]

[rogerhensley]

For block control, I prefer DPDT center off (Double Pole Double Throw - Center Off) which permits you to reverse the block or shut it off completely. This has some great advantages especially on sidings. You do reversing with your block switches rather than your power pack.

I also recommend converting your couplers to Kadee. If you need to do it over a period of time, then make a conversion car with a Kadee on one end and the horn-hook on the other.

You can find info on wiring blocks and coupler changing on the NMRA web site at: http://www.nmra.org/beginner/

Welcome back. Just take it one step at a time.

[Fergmiester]

(not whispering) GO DCC

Prepare yourself as this Forum is dangerous to your pocket book and other parts of your life!

Don't sell yourself short as I would have put myself in your shoes about a year and a half ago. Am I an expert? hardly, but after experimenting and talking and doing, the learning curve, though very steep at times, has been interesting and rewarding. This is a great place to learn!

If you have a question, ask away as one of us here has been snagged by the same hook at one time or another.

I'm serious about DCC. It's not as daunting as some would have you believe and at 12x12 you have a layout that won't be built overnight and by the sounds of it, will be around for years to come. If DCC is not in your budget, then that's fine too as you can always retro fit it, very easily, at a later date.

My layout has 18" curves in it but my main line has a minimum of 22". I've put in a lot of time and effort in superelevating, grading, allignment and ballasting this track and have come to the realization that this maybe for not as some Engines (the ones on my wish list) require 24" minimum. So.... two steps forward, one step back!

Most of us will tell you to plan ahead as it will cost you in the end if you don't. More and more manufacturers are going high end, which means their engines are becoming more prototypical and therefore won't tolerate less than ideal track.

Hopefully I haven't dampened your enthusiam and Welcome to the Forum.

Regards
Fergie

BTW this hobby has made me a bit obbsessive and passionate, so take what I say with a grain of salt.

[tstage]

zaffie,

The only reason for giving you the "subliminal whispering" on DCC is that you might find yourself spending as much, if not more on switches, wires, and toggles that you would implementing a DCC system. The beauty is that you can backfit your older locomotives with decoders, one at a time, when the monies are there. At the same time, you can still run a "non-decoder" locomotive on your layout using your DCC system. It will both simplify your wiring immensely and you'll have the enjoyment of running your locomotives rather than your track. zaffie, I won't bug you anymore about it [:)]...

Tom

[Anonymous]

zaff,
I agree wholeheartedly with tstage and fergie that you should get into DCC. They've already mentioned the issues of easier wiring etc., but an additional benefit is being able to run your decoder-equipped locos on other peoples' layouts.

There are several affordable DCC starter systems on the market; I wouldn't keep putting of that decision.

[trainboyH16-44]

Zaffie,
I say your cheapest block control solution is Atlas slide switches. They are not very expensive if you buy them used, and they are working great on my layout. Ypu must label them well, though.
Trainboy

[bcammack]

Not "Single Pole Dual Terminal".

It is as stated subsequently, "Single Pole, Double Throw". A single lead can be routed one way or the other.

A SPST can either route power or be open.

[dehusman]

You can use SPDT switches for block control, you just have to wire your layout for common return.

You can also use rotary switches to route power to blocks if you want more than 2 cabs or throttles on your layout.

Buy a book an layout wiring, Kalmbach has one. It will answer your questions.

Dave H.

[Anonymous]

From Dave
You can use SPDT switches for block control, you just have to wire your layout for common return.

You can also use rotary switches to route power to blocks if you want more than 2 cabs or throttles on your layout.

Buy a book an layout wiring, Kalmbach has one. It will answer your questions.

The Above is what I dont understand, I did order the book last night.
I was a whole lot better off when I knew NOTHING about this hobby, and know Im also going to look into DCC, thank to fergie. This is territory I am completely lost on.

Fergie said I can still run my cabs with DCC even though they are not DCC ready.

What about the 30 or so Atlas snap switches that are still in boxes that were put away along with the other equipment some 10 years ago? Will they operate with DCC? I prefer NOT to operate them manually.


While I only have about 20 cabs, I know this is a very small collection compared to what you guys have, I dont what to see them go to waste.

My goal is to have three seperate main lines, all having their own seperate sidings and spurs so I can run three cabs at once and work one line myself while the other two just run. Im also setting up the layout so that I can take and one of the cabs and run it on all three lines while the others are parked.

Does any of this make sense? or is my plan antiquated, I dont plan on running sessions, IM not into the hobby that deep. I like to play, watch the trains run and do a little freight swapping myself.

Thanks again guys

[Anonymous]

I recamend going DCC. WIth digitrax(not sure with other systems) you can run Straight DC engines on it. THey don't recamend stoping them for extened periods of time.

[tstage]

zaffie,

(Okay, I know I just said I wouldn't bug you anymore about it.). Along with what Jay just said, the Digitrax Zephyr gives you the ability to plug in - not just one but - TWO DC power packs into the Command station. Even without converting any of your locomotives to DCC, you'd still be able to run two of them on DC with the capacity to someday run DCC. Hmmmmm....I hear the gears are turning

zaffie, you mentioned Atlas switches. Are you talking about turnouts? If so, are they steel or nickel-silver. If they're steel - ditch 'em. Get nickel-silver because they'll be much less a maintenance issue than the steel ones will be. When nickel-silver track oxidizes, it's still conductive. Rust isn't.

Anyhow, just my immediate thoughts on the matter...

Tom