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Dullcoat or Krylon?

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Dullcoat or Krylon?
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 28, 2005 11:07 PM
I see quite a few posts mentioning Testor's Dullcoat and my LHS didn't have any, so I've never used the stuff. I bought a can of Krylon Matte Finish and used it to knock the plastic shine off a model I'm going to build. Did I screw up using this product or does it work OK? I hope it will be OK as I spent almost $30 for the New River Mining kit I'm building.Nice time to ask this question, eh?
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Posted by mikebonellisr on Monday, February 28, 2005 11:36 PM
I have used krylon workable matte finish for years,though,most of the time i do prefer to use dull coat when i airbrush a engine.It seems to me that yhe droplets are a little larger sprayed from a can.Krylon works fine on structures and cars...just don't flood it or get too close.....light coats
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, March 1, 2005 6:12 AM
Thanks mikebonellisr. I did apply two light coats to the structure parts and they seem OK. However I will not attempt to use Krylon on locos or rolling stock after your instructions. I have an airbrush, though not a very good one. Practice is due on my part.
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Posted by AntonioFP45 on Tuesday, March 1, 2005 6:23 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by karlp635

Thanks mikebonellisr. I did apply two light coats to the structure parts and they seem OK. However I will not attempt to use Krylon on locos or rolling stock after your instructions. I have an airbrush, though not a very good one. Practice is due on my part.


Karl,

I understand that you don't have a very good airbrush, but consider trying Polly Scale Satin and Flat finishes. They do an excellent job! Even with an inexpensive airbrush all you need to do is thin them properly. Use an old freight car or piece of styrene for a test sample. Thin with 70% alcohol, instead of distilled water.

Dullcoat can work well, but in some cases where there is "very fine" detailing involved it can be a little rough in appearance. Once you use the Acrylic flat finishes, you'll put away those spray cans!![;)] I have a can of dullcoat that has been sitting on my shelf for 10 years. I've used it only once in the past 5!

Don't take my word for it, just try it!!

"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"

 


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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, March 1, 2005 7:46 AM
I had a friend of mine in Toledo before I moved away who was a custom painter and only used Krylon Matte and Satin Finish on his finished brass locomotives.

Rick
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Posted by dwRavenstar on Tuesday, March 1, 2005 8:24 AM
I've seen Testor's Dullcote in the models section of the local WalMart.
If hard work could hurt us they'd put warning lables on tool boxes
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, March 1, 2005 12:08 PM
Thanks to all for the info and recommendations. I'm rather intrigued with the prospect of learning to use the Badger 200 airbru***hat's been sitting on the shelf for years. I'll try both the Dullcoat and the Polly Scale products. I won't be doing any "fine" detailing until I really get the hang of just doing some basic weathering. I'll check Wally World for the Dullcoat and hope I have better luck than finding the Acrylic Artist's Medium there. Seems hit and miss as to which stores carry which products. Thanks again!

Karl
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Posted by orsonroy on Tuesday, March 1, 2005 12:31 PM
I've done a lot of painting over the years, and have never bothered to apply gloss or flat matte with anything but a rattlecan (same goes for primer coats). I only bother dirtying the airbrush with "colors". Even then, for a basic coat of black, I default to Krylon satin or flat black. Krylon paints have a finely ground pigment, and work well for modelling, especially the earthtones and blacks. And their version of dullcoat works as well as Testor's, at a fraction of the price.

The key to successfully using rattlecans is to shake well, use them at room temperature, and to use quick, light coats. Once you get the hang of them, you can get results that are as good as any airbrush.

Ray Breyer

Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943

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Posted by Blind Bruce on Tuesday, March 1, 2005 1:10 PM
Doesn't Krylon attack styrene?

73

Bruce in the Peg

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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, March 1, 2005 1:36 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by karlp635

...... I'm rather intrigued with the prospect of learning to use the Badger 200 airbru***hat's been sitting on the shelf for years.....Karl


Hi Karl
Pick up a set of cleaning brushes for the air brush. Especially if you use acrylic paints. They set very fast. http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82149 Don't use pipe cleaners. The fuzz comes off and clogs the tip and it can't fit into the tiny tip . Badger sells a cleaning reamer for its air brushes. It's a handy tool for cleaning the tip. I have three different tips. Fine for washes, fine lines and weathering, medium tip for general painting for small to medium sized items and a large tip for rolling stock and small buildings.
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, March 1, 2005 1:57 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Blind Bruce

Doesn't Krylon attack styrene?

It can on bare styrene, especially if you lay it on too thick. Dull Coat can too if you have a lead finger. Any lacquer based paint can attack bare styrene. Floquil produce a barrier coating (I believe it's been discontinued) to spray on bare styrene before a top coat is applied. I use flat gray acrylic primer as a substitute for barrier.
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, March 1, 2005 4:29 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by gsetter

QUOTE: Originally posted by karlp635

...... I'm rather intrigued with the prospect of learning to use the Badger 200 airbru***hat's been sitting on the shelf for years.....Karl


Hi Karl
Pick up a set of cleaning brushes for the air brush. Especially if you use acrylic paints. They set very fast. http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82149 Don't use pipe cleaners. The fuzz comes off and clogs the tip and it can't fit into the tiny tip . Badger sells a cleaning reamer for its air brushes. It's a handy tool for cleaning the tip. I have three different tips. Fine for washes, fine lines and weathering, medium tip for general painting for small to medium sized items and a large tip for rolling stock and small buildings.


Thanks gsetter for the info and link. I would say "A tip of the Hatlo hat" but I fear anyone younger than 50 or so wouldn't see the humor [:)]

Thanks again to all. You guys are the best!

Karl
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  • From: Winnipeg Canada
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Posted by Blind Bruce on Tuesday, March 1, 2005 4:51 PM
I use tip cleaners from a welding supply company. A metal box of 10 or so different sizes is very reasonable
Bruce in the Peg

73

Bruce in the Peg

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