Derailing truck-mounted coupler cars

[Anonymous]

I have two 50 foot dual door boxcars from Pemco and they have truck-mounted couplers. They derail alot, especially when being pushed through the turnouts. I am using Bachmann E-Z track if that makes any difference. I also have two 51 foot cylindrical hopper cars from Model Power with truck-mounted couplers. They have the same problem, except not so extreme. All four cars have horn hook couplers. What are the reasons for them derailing? I've checked the track so I'm pretty sure the cars have problems. Thanks for your help.

[Eriediamond]

Yep, biggest problem is the truck mounted horn-hook couplers. Suggestion would be to convert to Kadee and mount them on the car body. At least mount the horn-hook couplers to the body if not practical to convert to knuckle type couplers. Ken

[mcouvillion]

Skipeo,

Good Morning. If you look at the horn-hooks when they are in compression (being pushed), they tend to pu***o the side because the horn is at an angle to the end of the car, and not perpendicular to the rails. The force is to the side. You probably have not added any weight to your cars, either, so they are very light. Plastic wheels? Everything above says "Let's pu***his lightweight off the track". I have a few cars with truck-mounted couplers and they work fine, but they have Kadee couplers, they are weighted to the NMRA recommended practice, with the weights applied directly over the trucks, and they have metal wheels, which help lower the center of gravity. I can push my cars as fast as I can pull them and they don't derail.

If you want reliable operation, get rid of the horn-hooks, add some weight, and get metal wheels. You'll be very glad you did. Start with the problem cars. Kadees, or McHenry's, or Accumates will make a huge improvement in performance, as will adding weight and better wheels.

Mark C.

[jrbernier]

Skipeo,

What you are seeing is typical. The Pemco and Model Power cars are really poor performers. Model Power has some metal cars with body mounted knuckle couplers
and metal wheels - a lot more expensive. I suspect you are using the older 'horn-hook'
couplers - they usually have problems when being pushed, especially with truck mounted coupling. Other than body mounting the couplers and maybe replacing the trucks/wheels, you are going to see this problem all the time. I helped build a 'demo' layout using Bachmann EZ Track and we had no problems backing cars/trains throught the switches - However, all cars has metal wheels and body mount knuckle couplers. The train had small 4 axle 'GP' or 'SW' type engines and a mix of 40' & 50' freight cars, all weighted to the NMRA standards. I would stay away from the 'bargan basement' Pemco, Life-Like, Model Power, or IHC stuff. You will do much better with the Athearn/MDC/Accurail or P2K cars. The newer Athearn/MDC 'RTR' stuff has metal wheels, the Accurail has plastic wheels, and the P2K cars have metal wheels. All of the above mentioned cars hav 'body mounted' knuckle couplers - Something you should really start considering converting your existing engnes/cars to.

Jim Bernier

[Anonymous]

Look at the Banish Derailments article on Model Railroader. There are many reasons this happens but in my experience it usually relates to car wieght and the trucks cannot be too tight. Also backing too fast or through tight or s curves. Check out the main website. Is much help.

Its easier than you think. Have fun.

[Anonymous]

Thank you everyone! Right now I am in the middle of converting my fleet to McHenry couplers. I'll add the extra weight and convert the cars to body mounted couplers. I'm glad that the problem is so easy to fix. Alturasandlonepine, what issue is the Banish Derailments article in? I would have bought higher quality cars but my local hobby shop seems to be sponsered by Model power.

[rogerhensley]

The NMRA web site also has a section for info like this at http://www.nmra.org/beginner/ where you can find aricles on body mounting couplers, wheels and much more.