BUS & FEEDE WIRE II

[Anonymous]

[:D] How have my mrxr friends doing? I have one more question about bus & feeder wires, Here it is, I went to Radio Shack today and asked them if they had 14 gauge wire they didn't. So I bought 16 gauge instead. It's (two-conductor stranded) speaker wire, does that make a difference, or do I have to take the wire back and get another kind [?]
I just want to make a right perchase[;)]
Thanks for the help TrainsRMe[:)]

[pike-62]

You can probably use it. I personaly would not buy wire from Radio Shack as you could buy the same wire from an electric supply house or even a big box home improvement center for a lot less. I wired my layout with 14 gage wire I striped from standard houshold romex cable. You can buy all of this you need for probably less than you paid for the 16 gage from RS and it is already color coded.
Dan Pikulski
www.DansResinCasting.com

[Anonymous]

Thanks danpk, I will follow up with the suggestion, it seemed like they had no clue on what I was talking about!!
Thanks again
TrainsRMe

[Anonymous]

Hello, Yes the local harware supply usually have all the different size you would need in 50-100-200 ft lengths, much cheaper

[ClinchValleySD40]

Why shop at Radio Shack, probably most expensive place around. Home Depot/Lowes and such have it all and much cheaper.

[Mark300]

I agree with the above posts.....and the general cluelessness at RS over things non-video/non-audio/non-computing; like DC and DCC model train operations.

What we're dealing with here; whether it's DC or DCC is power wiring - the low voltage type.

Whenever possible stay with solid conductors instead of stranded. Although stranded wiring is rated as a '16 gauge' or '14 gauge,' these ratings are generally configured when the 'load' is a speaker, microphone, computer, etc.

Conventional wisdom is to stay with solid conductors instead of stranded when doing power wiring - whether it's for high voltage or low voltage like......trains. If you are using DCC; the power issues are geneally OK in stranded but I like to make sure the path for 'command' signals that are also sent thru the line has a good solid conductor/wire through which to travel.

I guess the other issue is 'heat' buildup and so the larger/solid conductor will manage the voltage, power, commands as well as heat dissapation much better. Also using suitcase connectors and the like are much easier when using solid conductors.

Check out the local hardware store or the discount building supply stores such as Home Depot or Loews as they sell lots of wire and connectors much cheaper.

HTH

Mark

[jfugate]

Trains:

16 guage wire will only be a problem if your layout is very big.

The problem with smaller wire is increased resistance and more voltage drop over distance. Generally you want to keep the voltage drop to no more than about 5%.

With 12 guage wire you can run 50 feet before the voltage will drop 5%. With 14 guage, it's 30 feet. With 16 guage wire, a run of 15 feet will cause a voltage drop of 5%.

So as long as your bus wire run is 15 feet or less, then 16 guage wire will work fine. But if you have a much longer run, then go to Lowes or Home Depot and get some 12 or 14 guage wire.

[Don Gibson]

16 guage is Lamp cord. It's fine for table lamps. I use it for speaker wire - under 15 '.

For BUSS wire I prefer 14 guage solid - or 12 guage for longer runs - because it's easier to work with.

Easier to strip, solder to, comes color coded, and stays in place once bent.
i also prefer solid 18 -22 guage feeder wires which fit snugly against rail.and fit through holes in the trainboard without unravelling.

WHAT'S even more impotant is having Color Coding: 2 for track and 3 for switches.

RADIO SHACK is not your best source for wire. LHS is better, and a HOME DEPOT or a Builder's Hardware for the heavier stuff. Just figure your mainline length, add your yards, and a few ft. for good measure. A $15 wire stripper is a good investment here.

A soldering gun is another.

[CP5415]

Another good spot for wire is your local auto parts store.
You should be able to pick up 100' of 14 gauge wire for about $10 - $20 US.
That's where I got all my wire from.
They should have every gauge in stock from 22 gauge to 10 gauge.
Various colours as well.
As much as I hate to agree with Don [:D], wire strippers & a decent soldering gun are a good investment.

Gordon

[BRVRR]

I bought my 12-gauge buss wire by the foot at Lowe's and the 22-gauge feeders from RS in spools. I never thought of the auto parts store. I'll check them out next time. Wire strippers and a soldering gun/iron are essential.

[nfmisso]

There are no conduction reasons for choosing solid or stranded wire for model railroad use. Use what ever works best for you.

For higher frequency signals, stranded is better. DCC is not high frequency.

[howmus]

I get wire from practically all of the above. The Auto Parts Store is a good source of some things, however, all the ones around here only carry stranded wire (auto primary wire). I use some stranded for various purposes and so I buy that there. Some items at RS are actually cheaper than some other "discount" stores, and they carry both stranded and solid in a variety of gauges. Other electrical outlet stores can be a good source as well. I try to have some idea of what I am going to need and when I am out shopping, if I see what is a good deal, I grab it then even if I don't need it then. That way I have a good suppy on hand for when I do need it. As far as the discussion on stranded vs. solid wire. It makes absolutely no difference as far as running the layout as each has approximately the same conductivity (I believe that stranded is actually just slightly better because the electrons have a larger surface area to travel on). Solid is easier to use if you want to bend the wire and have it stay put. Solid is also prefeable if you are stripping the wire in the middle and soldering feeders to it. Stranded is much easier to use when you need flexibility..... I use both and often which one I use depends on what I have.

Have fun with your trains. [:D]

[Anonymous]

Hey, thanks everybody!! I really have a good idea on what kind of wire to use. I already have wire strippers and a soldering gun, so all I need is the right wire and I'm on my way!!!