I just built a really cool Access bridge that is a lift out for my layout. *PICS*

[Anonymous]

Good afternoon guys

The bridge is not totally complete keep that in mind. I just worked on it last night to get it up and running. Now comes the cosmetic work and the stabilizing work. I will do as one has recommended by adding two pieces of board on the sides to prevent a trip to the floor if a derailment occurs. I may just use plexiglass. As for the kill switch so trains will not go over is a plan I have to now conquer that will require very little matainence. I willpaint it up or stain it so it looks better. I put a brace (2x3) on the bottom of the legs from one side to the other side so that if the layout gets hit it will not knock it off of track and make the bridge warped. Tonight I will actually connect the track to the exsisting layout area and will have full layout function.

[twhite]

Super, Al. since I'm going to be faced with a long lift-bridge section when I start putting my staging yard in on the other side of the garage, you've given me some really GREAT ideas--thanks for sharing--this post gets SAVED!!
Tom[bow][bow]

[cjcrescent]

Al, great pictures showing how you did that. Real good idea on the solder. Would make one recommendation if you wanna hear one. Since it looks like your liftout, judging from the pix, is a single piece of 1x6, I would definitely put a brace or braces on the liftout bottom to prevent warpage. These can be made out of another 1x6, split into a 1x3 and glued/screwed on their edge to the liftout. Or even glue/screw them to the edge of the liftout itself. If done like this they will also act as a guard to prevent any derailments from hitting the floor. Having seen a liftout warp bad enough as to become non working, I would find a way to prevent that board from warping.

[SpaceMouse]

Funny how when a piece drops into place (pun inteneded) solutions to other . I've been wondering if there was a way to join the Hogwarts layout to the logging layout , and putting a liftout bridge accross the access space of the logging layout will free up a place for Hogwarts to connect.

[Anonymous]

Al, I really like your profile quotes. Kudos to you for being a firefighter. You're all amazing people, and congrats on your upcoming wedding. I hope she's a railfan, too! Now, about that bridge. A picture is worth a thousand words, and it's great to see someone who can master shutterfly or other software to post pics. (My computer balks at that stuff and cuts me right off the internet when I try to upload to a forum.) Anyway, no offense at all to your description, but I had a little trouble understanding it until I saw your pictures. Now I see it's a fantastic plan. Whooda thunk you could drill that hole and solder inside it? That's very cool. I'm sure you've done a service to lots of us who have irritating gaps to cross in our train rooms. Now, we know how to do it. Thanks, man. George[:)]

[mikebonellisr]

Thank you ,It has me thinking in the right direction.I have to cross a span of about 6' on a section around the wall.something like this is the way to go.

[SpaceMouse]

BS,

Thanks. A lift out bridge would solve a lot of my layout problems--and Randy. Good idea killing the track. My son has a bit of Adams Family in him.

[rrinker]

I would add a few more contacts so that when the bridge is out, power is cut to a foot or so of the track approaching the bridge on both sides. Avoids the "Oh %^$&!" dive over the benchwork in a vain attempt to catch that superdetailed loco that's about to roll through the opening and hit the floor.

--Randy

[challenger3802]

A great way of doing a bridge, I've seen hinged bridges with various wiring arrangements but not a complete lift out section.

Ian

[Anonymous]

Hey guys I was in the process of doing my bridge last night and quit becaue I could not figure a cool way of doing the lift up so today while just staring at it for a while I decided on a cool way of doing a LIFT OUT bridge instead.
The reason I never really wanted to do it this way even though it is the best way IMO is because of the power to the track problems. So this is what I did

Imaging taking two Silver type screws and putting the head parts up to each other. That was my concept in the contact. I just did my bridge and screwed two screws under the bridge in about 1/8 or so and then on the base I screwed in the screws about 1/8 higher. So when the contact each other they are also in like a gap that keeps the bridge from wiggling.
I then soldered wires from the track to the bottom of the screws which were slightly sticking out the tp of the bridge because I screwed them in deeper. On the base I drilled two holes into the side of the wood right into the screw so I could see the thread and then stuck the solder iron in there to heat the screw up and then the solder and wires. I was hoping that this was going to work and to my suprise it actually did. Now the trains run thru there just fine and when I want to leave I just take the bridge out. It was overall more simple than doing a drop down like I used to have or doing the lift out bridge. Here are some pictures of what I did. The one col thing is my last access bridge was only like 16" wide so I had to turn sideways to walk in and often hit the bridge with my pants. Now it s 25" wide. PERFECT.


Let me know what you guys think of it? What kind of access do you have for your layout and why?
Click onto the pictures to view in full size



Notice the engines rear light is one showing there is power to this


Notice the wires going in that hole. I will protect them tomorrow. Also I have blocks on the side to stop the bridge from sliding left and right


Takes one second to remove and two seconds to replace now


There are the two screws that have wires soldered to them. The bridge is very easily manageable too.


The two bottom screws connection. I also added solder in the middle of the screws for beter contact.