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N Scale Trouble

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N Scale Trouble
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, February 12, 2005 11:06 PM
Hi Everyone

I need a bit of info.

I went to the Hobby Shop and bought a Power Pack and to my astonishment it had no wall plug. Now from what i have found out it will run of the AC part of my other Power pack.

This is my main problem. I just bought a heap of track of ebay but i think it is brass so i am getting rid of it. I am confused because there are so many different power packs that connect differently to so many different kinds of track.

What brand make N Scale Track that is Nickel Silver and what Power Pack would simply plug into it (I dont want to cut or solder).

Many thanks

Pavariangoo
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, February 13, 2005 12:16 AM
hi

i know it is possible to run a 2nd power pack of the first ones AC output but does the first one have to be connected to the track?

many thanks

pavariangoo
  • Member since
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  • From: California - moved to North Carolina 2018
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Posted by DSchmitt on Sunday, February 13, 2005 12:25 AM
I have been in N scale over 37 years and am not aware of any brass track N gauge track. Brass used to be very common in HO. The only non nickel silver track I have seen had steel rail.

Atlas code 80 track is kind of the USA standard. Peco code 80 and code 55 from England is good track. For people really dedicated to prototype appearance there are Atlas code 55 or Micro Engineering track.

MRC is probably the most widely used brand of power pack.

I tried to sell my two cents worth, but no one would give me a plug nickel for it.

I don't have a leg to stand on.

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  • From: City of Québec,Canada
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Posted by Jacktal on Sunday, February 13, 2005 12:30 AM
I've never heard of such a power pack...but I still have a lot to learn too,so I can't comment.However,if you wi***o run regular DC powered locos,MRC makes a fine line of power supplies that will fill your needs at very affordable costs.

All modern tracks that I know of are now nickel-silver.In my opinion,Peco makes the best tracks but Atlas make nice tracks too.However,Peco makes much better turnouts although at heftier prices but they're worthed the added cost.

If you don't want to cut tracks,you'll have to settle with ready made curved and straight sections.Personally,I prefer flextrack as they don't require as many joints and allow a wider choice of track designs.But ready made tracks will work fine.

If you don't want to solder wires to tracks (recommended),you can purchase special rail joiners that come with a wire already soldered.Atlas offers them for a reasonable price and are simple to use.
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, February 13, 2005 12:38 AM
Hi

Thanks to both of you.

To Jacktal - You said If you don't want to solder wires to tracks (recommended),you can purchase special rail joiners that come with a wire already soldered.Atlas offers them for a reasonable price and are simple to use.

Could i please have some more info on this please.

To DSchmitt- Maybe my rails are steel?

Many thanks again

pavariangoo
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, February 13, 2005 12:40 AM
Hi fellow "N"scaler,
The nickel track that i ues is Atlas flextrack and sectional track from Atlas,that has NEVER gave me any trouble, This is my suggestion, Always by your track from your favorite hobby shop,that way if there any problems you can take it back, The power pack I have is a MRC, I have had it for 4 years and I haven't had a single proble with it!! Also, you should try DCC (digital command) I have a Digitrax Zepher, you can run up to 10 loco's AT ONE TIME, Also by hooking up your exsting power pack to the Zepher you can run more trains! plus you can add more featuers. I'm sorry I don't mean to make this sound like a commercial,But I hope you find this info helpful,
Once again: Atlas flextrack MRC power pack
happy modelrailroading!!
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, February 13, 2005 12:44 AM
Thanks bud

my father used atlas ho scale flextrack and he found it good too!

my only thing against flextrack is that it has to be cut and my hobby shop doesnt sell MRC.... what a bummer!

Many thanks

pavariangoo.
  • Member since
    April 2003
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, February 13, 2005 12:52 AM
Hi it's me again,
Try this website:www.modelrectifier.com find out if you can order from them directly or find out where would be the Nearest hobby shop to you that does sell MRC products. I hope that helps.
TrainsRMe
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, February 13, 2005 12:55 AM
Cheers Trainsrme

Good Site

Good info

MAny thanks

Pavariangoo
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, February 13, 2005 1:03 AM
"Only helping a fellow modelrailroader in need,(espcially a fellow "N" scaler") :) TrainsRMe
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, February 13, 2005 1:09 AM
Thanks!

Pavariangoo

Also do those mrc's have wall plugs?
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, February 13, 2005 1:30 AM
Yes, the MRC's do have wall plugs, I'm just wondring, what kind of power pqack do you have that does'nt have a wall plug?
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, February 13, 2005 1:49 AM
A "CDA 213 2 amp hand controller"

many thanks

pavariangoo
  • Member since
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, February 13, 2005 7:37 AM
I accidently bought one of those once. I took it back and exchanged it for a conventional power pack. It's really strange to open one up expecting a conventional powerpack. I remember thinking "What in the h*** am I supposed to do with this thing?" It gets it power from a conventional powerback. I guess it is supposed to be a cheaper alternative to buying two powerpacks as it isn't really a powerpack at all but, as had been said, a hand controller. I have always been satisfied with Atlas Code 80 track. Again, if I were you, I'd exchange the hand controller for one of the new MRC TECH 4 units. Atlas switches have been ok EXCEPT that the electric motors only last a few years. I solved the problem by switching to all ground throw turnouts. Some people use the PECO turnout and switch machine. I don't know how the PECO switch machines hold up in the long run. Some people like the Shinohara turnouts. The PECO turnouts are power routing and click into place which lowers you chance of a car or engine becoming derailed on the switch. The ground throws lock the Atlas switches into place so it eliminates that problem. Atlas turnouts have plastic frogs which do not conduct electricity whereas I think the PECO has metal frogs. Some engines may stall on a plastic frog. With the huge improvement in Nscale engines, that is not so much of a problem anymore.
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  • From: City of Québec,Canada
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Posted by Jacktal on Sunday, February 13, 2005 9:03 AM
The joiners I spoke about are "terminal joiners" available from Atlas (part no. 2539).The LHS I used to go before moving carried them as regular hardware.You get a pair of these installed about every three feet of track to ensure good conductivity.They come with about 6 in. of wire that go through your workbench.You then connect them(crimp if you don't want soldering) to a bus wire under neath your bench.Take care to match the polarities all the way(right with right and so on) then connect your bus wire to your powerpack and you're all set.Gauge 14 wire will do a nice bus wire,even for relatively large layouts.

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