Problem with turnouts

[ndbprr]

There might be an easier way to solve the problem. You might try a slngle pole switch with the center going to the points and the ends picking up the rail current. In addition to throwing your turnout you would also need to allign the polarity switch unless you couold figure a way to use a piano wore to throw the switch and used a slide switch that would do both at once.

[NevinW]

QUOTE: Originally posted by johncolley

Whoa! Have you tried Tuner Cleaner on the contact areas?

Tuner cleaner: What is that and how can I get some? Thanks - Nevin

[Virginian]

They make extra long drill bits for just your situation too, if you want to go that route.

[dinwitty]

you want a switch that will...

not use the points for electical control at the frog.
The frog should be solid rail.

The club I was in handbuilt all switches.
The points stayed at the rail's polarity and the frog was powered thru the switch machine relay which used a special hold and lock selonoid, when power shut off, all turnouts snapped to normal positions.

[Anonymous]

Nevin,

I had no problems with the dremel cut off disc. Don't allow it to skid or bouce at the end of the cut. I wired to the closure rail above the points and used wire cut of f of resistors. Nice and workable and solders like a dream. You may have some scenery work to do to make this look good. I was in staging , so that part didn't factor in...

[retsignalmtr]

caboose industries makes a hand throw that has contacts that will route the power to the points. a small wire wheel in a dremel tool will do a good job of polishing the insides of the points and stockrails. peco also has a surface mount for their machines. you can then hide them in a building or under some other scenery.

[johncolley]

Whoa! Have you tried Tuner Cleaner on the contact areas?

[Don Gibson]

TWO PROBLEMS: Thickness of layout, Metal/metal points conductivity.

1, Remove trurnout to cut hole(s) for throw wire(s).
2. Use Rix under table Switch machine mounts with longer PIANO wire, and.....
3. Switch machines that use SPDT contacts routing power.
4. ReInstall turnouts with throw wire moving throw bar, and Frog rails to outside rails via SPDT contacts.
Cut off excess piano wire.

You now have dependable permanent semi-automaticoperation.
For manual operation simply use CABOOSE 'ground throws.

http://www.rixproducts.com/rix_products_listing.htm

[NevinW]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Trainnut1250

I use peco turnouts in hidden staging. My suggestion would be to hardwire the point/closure rails to the stock rail and double gap the frog (leaving it dead). Peco turnouts have some gaps in the tie spacing underneath to slide and solder a jumper to connect the rails. I have done this modification on six or seven turn outs while they were mounted (not ballasted) in place. Some don't like leaving the frog dead, but if you gap pretty close to it , you shouldn't have problems with anything except older brass and very small wheel base locos. I ran everything I own through the dead frog at a crawl and had no stalls. I run recent plastic steam. Good luck.

Guy: That may be the best solution. If I don't have to tear the turnouts out to fix the problem that would be much better. Any particular kind of flexable wire did you use to connect the points to the stock rail? Would a cut off disk in a Dremel tool be able to isolate the frog without tearing up the track? Dead frogs would bother me much. I run mostly modern plastic diesels and recent plastic steam. - Nevin

[Anonymous]

I use peco turnouts in hidden staging. My suggestion would be to hardwire the point/closure rails to the stock rail and double gap the frog (leaving it dead). Peco turnouts have some gaps in the tie spacing underneath to slide and solder a jumper to connect the rails. I have done this modification on six or seven turn outs while they were mounted (not ballasted) in place. Some don't like leaving the frog dead, but if you gap pretty close to it , you shouldn't have problems with anything except older brass and very small wheel base locos. I ran everything I own through the dead frog at a crawl and had no stalls. I run recent plastic steam. Good luck.

[mcouvillion]

NevinW,

I vote for option 3 also. Your dilemma is why I am not a fan of building layouts on doors or thick sheets of polystrene. I have a friend who is a remodeler who wants to use MDF as his base. I keep warning him about wiring and the location of under table stuff like switch motors. Hasn't caught on yet. You have your work cut out for you. Good luck.

Mark C.

[challenger3802]

Peco does indeed make microswitches that affix to the base of the turnout motors, these are wired to the frogs and give an additional current to the switch when thrown.

The Signal Box has a full list and reasonable prices, here in the UK
http://www.thesignalbox.co.uk/

Ian

[NevinW]

Here is a question for everyone about the problem with my turnouts:

First, the background: Shelf layout built on hollowcore doors laminated with a 2 inch layer of blue foam. I then used Woodland Scenics Track-Bed foam roadbed glued down with Foam tack glue. Peco turnouts were painted with an airbrush and glued to the roadbed with more tack glue. Finally ballasted and weathered. Worked great and very fast construction. I used the Peco spring to hold the points to the rail. But I never made any plans for controlling the polarity of the frog and I have had problems with the points not conducting current from the beginning. This is despite very carefully cleaning all the contact points. After cleaning it will work properly for about 1 month. Must be too much dust in my railroad room. The usual methods of drilling thru the roadbed and putting a wire thru that contacts some screws or a contact switch would be very difficult due to the thickness of the foam and hollow core doors.

So it seems like I have three options:

1. Tear up the track and switch to Atlas 83 turnouts that are prewired and not route selecting. Use ground throws.
2. Tear up the track and switch to Peco 83 insulfrogs. (at 20 bucks or more per turnout which is pretty expensive).
3. Tear out the turnouts, wire the frogs, carve a hole through the roadbed and foam underneath the points, install some kind of contact switch in that hole, and reglue the turnout . Pretty hard work but probably the best option. Does Peco make switch that attaches below the points?

I am leaning on option #3 but I wanted to hear if anyone had other ideas. - Nevin