Magnetic Uncoupler Recomendations

[Anonymous]

OK, found a reference to what I was talking about in the 7/29 issue of MR.

Tools
Uncoupler. Knuckle Buster magnetic uncoupling device. Includes flashlight, straight- and Phillips-head jewelers screwdrivers, and AAA battery. $6.50. Memory Lane Studios

Now, anyone know where I can find this?

[Anonymous]

I remember seeing a website with photos (seems to be no longer be there) where the guy installed cylindrical neodymium magnets between the track ties for uncoupling. I think they were the 1/8" x 3/8" size placed in 3/8" deep holes and looked very inconspicuous. I haven't tried them myself but the idea seemed good and they were about 20 cents per magnet. Two were used at each location so it was about 40 cents per "uncoupler". The neodymium magnets are much stronger than traditional magnets so they did have enough power even with their small size. The only issue was that, since the magnets were only 1/8" , it was somewhat difficult to spot the cars in the correct place for consistant uncoupling.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by howmus

I like the handheld uncoupling magnets. I have in the last 2 years removed all the permanent uncouplers that I had on the layout. The under the track (only had one.) would uncouple the last few cars of every train that went over it. The on-the-ties type is diffucult to get just right unless you are using code 100 track. I have, however used them with hand laid code 70 track and had them work. I have used only one electro-magnetic type, but it gave probably the best performance of the ones that I have used. Again it may be difficult to get installed just right if you are not using code 100 and requires a hole through the layout as it sits partly under the layout. I will consider putting these in places that I cannot reach with the hand held uncoupler. The other problem is that it is hard to disguise them in the track unless you happen to have a road crossing right there. Also, uncoupling and then backing the cars into place is not very prototypical for operation.

just my [2c].

I read an article that reviewed a new handheld uncoupler last month. Gave it a very good review, I think I left the magazine in a hotel though because I can not find it now. Anyone else see that article? Most likely would have been a December '04 magazine. I don't think it was Model Railroader.

[mikebonellisr]

I use mostly the kadee electro magnetic uncouplers and they perform great.You just have to use a little care when installing them(nothing too dificult).just follow the instructions.The main problem that I had with the between the rails magnet was false uncoupling when slack appeared in my train while over the magnet(it worked too good)Use the instructions as a guide to magnet placement,your needs will more than likely be different

[AntonioFP45]

Regarding: McHenry's

I suggested this on another post, but if one decides to purchase McHenry's, get the ones with the "coil spring" that attaches to the knuckle. Don't get the ones with the "built-on" plastic strip that acts as a spring. I've had a few of these with some of the RTR freight cars I've purchased.

These couplers are JUNK! The plastic spring can eventually break if you couple and uncouple frequently. You get what you pay for!

Peace!

[WilmJunc]

Could Andy or someone else that has an April 2002 MR, give me a description on how to "Add muscle to Kadee's electromagnet." My issues do not go back that far.

[WilmJunc]

Thanks for all the input. There's been some great information provided.

[Sperandeo]

I use the no. 308 under-tie magnets on spurs or any place cars will be left off the main line, but I use electromagnet uncouplers on main tracks, passing tracks, and through yard tracks. I have a couple of different types, including some that are no longer available, but my latest installations are Kadee no. 307 electromagnets modified as shown in the April 2002 "Model Railroader" article, "Add muscle to Kadee's electromagnet" (pages 102-103). Modified as in that article, the Kadee electromagnets can be mounted completely below the ties, in fact as much as 1/8" below the top of the roadbed, and still work very reliably. This allows both the permanent magnet and electromagnet uncouplers to be out of sight.

So long,

Andy

[Anonymous]

I also use code 83 and code 70, I simply remove the ties(before ballast) between the gauges to fit the magnet. I never had a loco hang up.

[howmus]

QUOTE: Originally posted by tcf511

I'm not familiar with the handheld uncouplers. Are they magnetic and who makes them?

The one I have is made by Rix. Walthers carries them. http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/628-14

It has a magnet on each side and is placed between cars as you want to uncouple.

[tcf511]

I'm not familiar with the handheld uncouplers. Are they magnetic and who makes them?

[howmus]

I like the handheld uncoupling magnets. I have in the last 2 years removed all the permanent uncouplers that I had on the layout. The under the track (only had one.) would uncouple the last few cars of every train that went over it. The on-the-ties type is diffucult to get just right unless you are using code 100 track. I have, however used them with hand laid code 70 track and had them work. I have used only one electro-magnetic type, but it gave probably the best performance of the ones that I have used. Again it may be difficult to get installed just right if you are not using code 100 and requires a hole through the layout as it sits partly under the layout. I will consider putting these in places that I cannot reach with the hand held uncoupler. The other problem is that it is hard to disguise them in the track unless you happen to have a road crossing right there. Also, uncoupling and then backing the cars into place is not very prototypical for operation.

just my [2c].

[Anonymous]

On my previous layout (dismantled due to a house move) I used both under-the-track and on-the-ties KD magnets and neither was ideal. Rex is absolutely correct that the above-the-ties ones do not work well with anything smaller than code 100, and I was using code 83; the gearboxes under a number of my steam locomotives would hang up on them. Meanwhile, the under-the-track ones are powerful enough that they can hinder smooth running of any equipment that has magentic-susceptible parts. I'm still undecided about my new layout.

I've read that many experienced operators use hand-held devices to release the couplers.

[cwclark]

I like the mchenry magnetic uncouplers...here are a few pictures with explanations i put together to show how to install them...start with this picture and click the right arrow button..there are 8 pictures all together
http://community.webshots.com/photo/137793353/168986987VwofYq

[rexhea]

Using Kadee couplers will give you the most consistant uncoupling even though other types will work.

I have had very good luck with the under-the-track permanent magnets. The above track are actually made for code 100 track and if you have code 83, it is a real pain to get them at the right height. The under-the-track are strong enough to give you room for error.

If your numbers are limited, place them before turnouts to maximize the uncoupling for several tracks. As already stated; make sure they are placed in a straight section of track at least a car length long on both sides. The straighter the cars, the more reliable the uncoupling.

Unfortunately, the best locations to install them on your layout will not be realized until you operate your railroad for awhile. At first, all you can do is imagine where the most efficient place will be.

REX [:)]

[Anonymous]

When installing magnets make sure it is a straight section of track atleast where you will be uncoupling, also make sure your siding is long enough past the magnet to allow enough room to push and recouple the cars. I didnt use the placement jig, but I used the coupler height gauge to check the pin placement over the magnet.
I never checked Kadee's site out.

[WilmJunc]

It is about time for me to add magnetic uncouplers (for Kadee couplers) if I am going to add them to the layout. I’m looking for recommendations from those who have installed them.

- Permanent magnet or electro-magnet type (or a combination)?

- Where are the best places to install them for the most trouble free, consistent results?

- Are the locations that are recommended on Kadee’s website good?