Minimum radiuses

[Anonymous]

What is the minimum radius I should allow for if I intend to run 2-8-2 locos in HO? How about the 2-8-8-2's ?

[Anonymous]

You probably should check the manufacturer's specifications for the particular locomotive that you intend to run. Many 2-8-2's will run on 22" radius curves, but others (such as brass locos) require a 26" minimum. The same is true for the articulated locos. Some are designed to run on tighter curves than others.

[Anonymous]

It really does depend on the brand of model. I'd take the manufacturer's specs as a guide only. There frequently is a difference in what the absolute minimum radius is and what the locomotive will do consisently. I run several Athearn 2-8-2's and while they will negotiate a 22" radius, they operate with less binding, steadier speed and better appearance ( less overhang) on larger curves. For these loco's, I'd be more comfortable with at least a 24" radius. Another thing to check is turnout minimum frog number, for the same reasons. I'm currently replacing a number of #6 1/2 curved turnouts with #7's to increase the radius on the inner leg of the turnouts.

The best thing, if possible, is to set up some track and turnouts and test for yourself to see what works and looks good enough to suit you.

[Anonymous]

The larger the rad. the better they will run, I use all Atlas HO Super Flex track, you can make any rad. you want, why limit yourself to the fixed rad. of snap track and you have less rail connections and you can make nice easments into your turns. I am running some 4-8-4's your going to need a good rad. for a 2-8-8-2, by the way what is a 2-8-8-2 ?, a 2-8-8-0 is Articulated, a 2-8-8-4 is a Yellowstone and a 4-8-8-4 is a Big Boy, havn't come across a 2-8-8-2. Buy a few pcs. of flex track and do some testing.
Beeline

[Anonymous]

Hello Beeline: just as an aside, ALL of the locomotives you list are articulateds, what they are not [necessarily ] is "true" Mallets ,[compound articulateds].
2-8-8-2's, and 2-6-6-2's were amongst the most common of these after 1918, especially the USRA designs. One of the best known HO model 2-8-8-2's ever,is the N&W "Y" series made by Rivarossi off and on for nearly 40 years now.
There were quite a few 2-4-4-2's on smaller railroads in the west & northwest.
Prior to WWI, 0-6-6-0's and 0-8-8-0's were common, and during that war, the 2-8-8-0 became very poular.
There were many many more popular wheel arrangements for articulateds, most of which never even got a 'nickname'
regards / Mike

[BR60103]

I'll put my neck out on this and suggest that, for appearance, a model loco should not take up more than 20 to 30 degrees on a curve. (one twelfth to one sixteenth of a full circle) This means that on train set track, no more than one curved section. Any contrary opinions?

That said, for practical reasons you will probably run your 2-8-8-2s on something less, and the minimum you can get away with depends on the loco.
The NMRA publishes standards and recommended practices that cover what radius goes with what general sort of prototype equipment. (probably on their web site)
David

[Anonymous]

Hi Mike Your correct but I have not seen any LBS's selling 2-8-8-2's in my area.and I never seen one at a train show. The Whyte system for American Steam loco's lists a name for each wheel arrangement, that's where I got my info. You can view this at: www.steamlocomotive.com/misc/wheels.html a list of all American Steam locomotive wheel arrangements along with quite a bit of other related info.
Regards/ Beeline

[Anonymous]

Mike sorry about the typing finger slip, should be LHS (local hobby shop) but come to think of it it's also the local BS place to.
Regards, Beeline