I have an N scale Samhongsa U33C that I would like to paint and decal. How would you paint it without taking the engine completely apart?
caldreamer I have an N scale Samhongsa U33C that I would like to paint and decal. How would you paint it without taking the engine completely apart?
Some people are going to tell you to take it apart. I personally think you shouldn't especially considering it's Korean and they can be a pain to reassemble. As such here is my process in its phases:
phase 1 (prep):
1. take the basics apart. The boiler must be free from the chasis. Tender from it's chasis. All trucks must come off and the wheels should be removed from them.
2. dip a tooth strong solvent (acetone, lacquer thinner, klean strip) and strip the model. This will pull the clear coat off
3. put some bar keepers friend on the tooth brush and scrub model gently but with enough pressure. Rinse with warm water and soap. Be sure to dry it off as water will oxidize the bare metal. After you are done the model should shine. This step will etch the metal which is important as it gives your paint a foothold on the metal.
Phase 2 (paint):
The hardest part was prepping the model. Now that you have done that it paints just like any other. Some people argue about primer but it really depends on your paint. If you choose to use a primer be sure to keep it light. From my exp. rattle can primers are too thick. I'm lazy and don't feel like decanting. With those two things in mind I have opted to paint onto the bare metal and just do a few extra light coats of paint instead of priming. Then clear coat twice lightly.
To paint the drivers I suspend the chasis between two boxes and power the motor directly from a powerpack. This setup is free and doesn't require free rollers. Basically you just have the engine running in the air instead of on the track. Paint the drivers while they run. Then use the solvent for your paint to remove them from the rods if you don't want the paint on them. Make sure you keep the drivers running for a while after you are done so that the paint doesn't dry in the mechanism.I use TCP because I paint Daylight scheme colors and don't feel like mixing my own. If you need generic colors I have heard Tamiya makes good paint and it's cheaper. Let me know if I missed something!
My U33C is a diesel eingine. I have the superstructure loose. I was talking about the side sill with hand rails, fuel tank and underside of the locomotive.
My mistake. I know nothing of diesels.
Brass is brass weather it's a box car, diesel or steam. Paint doesn't care what you apply it on if it's formulated for it.
If the clear coat is fine then you don't have to strip it. If there's runs, saggs, too thick, or like most full of dust and dirt then you will have to strip it. Any decent paint stripper will do. I'm partial to the gell stuff that smells like someone dropped an orange in a can of lacour thinner. Rinse really well, dry using a hair dryer or oven set to warm. Lowest enough to take it out with your hands but don't do it yet. Put on some rubber gloves and do not touch it with your fingers from now on.
Some people pickle brass before painting. It adds an extra step. I've done it but have switched to using an etching primer. Very very light coat. You could almost see through it so thin.
Then after it's dry (give it a day or two) spray on your base color and what ever other color you want.
Definitely remove the motor, and trucks and anything else you don't want saturated with water from rinsing.
Pete.
Forgot to add. Some detail parts may come off along the way. Usually in the stripping cycle. Some small details seem like the clear coat holds them on. So don't lose them.
wrench567 Some people pickle brass before painting. It adds an extra step. I've done it but have switched to using an etching primer. Very very light coat. You could almost see through it so thin.
The self etching auto primers work well. The issue for me was I couldn't get them to spray thin enough for my liking. They are also more expensive then etching with bar keepers friend
I have a friend who's an auto body guy. He buys etching primer in bulk. I buy a pint from him thinned down like water and use my air brush (double acting) and very low air pressure and get translucent coverage. The rattle cans can be hit or miss.